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Old 03-31-2012   #1 (permalink)
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Default Transducer fairing block

I have had problems in the past with thru hull transducers reading at speed and the furuno man has explained to me that not having a fairing block is the cause . You look at the size of the block and i question whether i would want to put it on a 26' sisu and the man explained that if you follow directions and cut the block to the right angle that half would be inside the hull and the other half would be outside . If anyone has done this please share on your thoughts and did it improve reading ability at speed ? I will be using the b260 ducer with the 585 unit . Thanks Dennis
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Old 03-31-2012   #2 (permalink)
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Try an airmar B60 tducer no fairing block needed.

I put the tilted version with a furuno 582 and it works great on my planing hull.
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Old 03-31-2012   #3 (permalink)
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Oh fairing blocks, how I love thee so...
Beam through the hull if possible, it is much better-er

If you're dead set on a block though, it is very straight forward. Just have your boat leveled up, put the block up where you think you'd like to have it, make it fair in relation to your vessel, torpedo levels are nice for this, scribe it with a pair of dividers with a magic marker taped to them, cut the block, cut a hole for your transducer, mount the block the way the manufacturer suggests (with goo and screws most likely), mount the inside, install your transducer and viola! Now you're ready to paint that wonderful glob of technology on the bottom of your boat.
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Old 03-31-2012   #4 (permalink)
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Default Fairing Block

I have the Furuno 585 with the B260 Transducer. Correct that fairing block is a monster. I did not use the fairing block & I read great bottom at speeds up to 23 knots at WOT. You will need however to make a mounting block so the face of the ducer is straight down. Also when selecting a spot pick a spot in the planning field of the hull about amidships. You also want to be away from any strainers or intakes. I am sure that your Susi is at best a 20 knot boat so the install should be a piece of cake.
What is very important is that your Susi is core below the water line. Once you drill your hole, make sure that you rabbit out the coring and pack at least 1 of solid glass type material to protect the core. Hull & Deck Puddy works very well. The photos are my install. Lastly when you drill your hole the fairing blocks must be in place so the hole is at the correct angle. In the last photo the water inatke looks close, but it is behind and away from the transducter so there are no issues.
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Old 04-01-2012   #5 (permalink)
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I was told to drill the hole 1"bigger then the stem , reglass the hole solid then drill to correct stem size so that the balsa core would not crush under the stem nut . That was gonna be my next question , what is the best way to go about this project as i am an amature at best when it comes to fiberglassing . Thanks Dennis
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Old 04-01-2012   #6 (permalink)
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Grind a large area around where your transducer is going, say 12" diameter or so. Use a 4" hole saw from the inside of your vessel, cut down through your interior laminate and slowly through your core material, pop out the offensive matter, cut a bunch of circles from fiberglass mat and structure material, like an 1808. Scrape the bottom of your hole with a putty knife/screwdriver/old chisel/etc, put some tape on the outside of your hull to keep the resin in place (2" blue 3M works pretty good for this), hot coat your area well so that the balsa/foam/whatever absorbs as much as possible. On a piece of card board put some resin down with a chip brush and start stacking layers of fiberglass, you should start with 2-3 layers of mat, wet those out and put them in the hole, work the air out of the laminate and continue alternanting between layers of structure and mat, say 4-5 layers of structure then a mat making sure to remove the air as you go. Depending on how thick your core material is you may want to consider using slightly less catalyst than you would normally, so that the laminate doesn't exotherm and create a bunch of heat which will crystalize your resin and make it a poor bond. I would suggest working with polyester resin. When you get to the surface of your interior laminate put a larger area of fiberglass down, say a 6" circle of structure material mat side down and then an 8" circle of structure material mat side down with 2 layers of resin rich mat which you've feathered the edge on so that the edge extends past your 8" layer of structure - this will give you a nice working surface which bonds well and needs little if any fairing, just some gelcoat when it's done curing. You can now drill and compress to your hearts desire (right up until you distort the nut or break the hollow transducer shaft) without crushing any core material.

If working with epoxy (shakes head) you will need to revisit your project and go in only a few layers at a time so you don't exotherm.
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Old 04-01-2012   #7 (permalink)
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Default Mounting

Drill the 1 stem hole at the correct angle. Do not remove the original glass top & bottom.
Once the 1" stem hole is made place an allen wrench in a cordless drill. The long end in the chock. Wiggle the short end into the hole and push it into the core. Next walk the drill around the hole. The allen key will shred the coring until just the top and bottom layer of glass is left.
Clean the area with acetone. Next pack in your fiberglass filler all around the edge with your finger and push the putty into the void area. I like west system or the best stuff is Hull & deck putty. Once it is set up just run the drill through to clean the hole & you are done.
I have used this method main times on transducers & rod holders never a problem. I see no need to pierce the integrity of the hull skin any more than needed.
Lastly if on the drill a little moisture come out. Let it dry completely before moving on. She is an old boat and you may a little. If so a heat gun also helps.
The wooden mounting block must be cut at the correct angle so the ducer is pointing straight down. Once the block is split and cut at the correct angle, one half goes inside the other on the outside. I use 5200 for the mounting. Tighten up until you get a good fit & done.
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