34’ webbers cove

Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by Fishnjess, Jun 17, 2018.

?

Thoughts and suggestions?

Poll closed Oct 13, 2018.
  1. Stick build

    5 vote(s)
    41.7%
  2. Prefab top

    7 vote(s)
    58.3%
  1. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Thanks for the shot of the airmar unit. I took a level and a trusty sliding t-bevel to the bottom and low and behold the dead rise is about 13-14 degrees. 12 degree is the ticket.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2018
  2. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Pulled out the rudder post and shaft log. Another rudder skeg is being fabricated at a local place out of 3/8 stainless. Couldn’t believe the rudder was solid bronze. Did some polishing and she looks pretty good. The original prop on it was a little bit tired. Have a spare 4 blade laying around.
    I wanted to ask a question. The fairing block for the shaft log and rudder logs were both wood that saw to much time and water. Should these replicated out of wood or is plastic like say azek a bad idea. I would have to say that plastic azek in theory seems like a better alternative. I was also considering IPE for both. I have a few scraps that are the correct sizes.
     

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  3. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Keelboater, I took your advice. Small sections at a time for the bottom. 1-2 hour grinding windows make the bottom less “will sapping”.
     

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  4. winterking

    winterking Captain

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    02E5BF2E-1C3E-43AE-AFD9-8596E5F74BEE.png
    Fishinjess, don’t know what the bottom looks like, you’re prolly already doing this but don’t be afraid to use a scraper if theirs lumpy bumpy stuff, sometimes come off much quicker, then the sander can do it’s thing. I feel your pain ....
     
  5. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    This worked good for me. Hit it with this, the largest one you can find, then sand with 40-80 grit. Vacuum sander is a must. My project started out as a quick clean up, then I got more picky as I went around the boat. Almost took all the bottom paint off, not what I initially intended to do. But, it came out looking good. I agree with taking it in small doses.
     

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  6. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Yeah. I hear ya. We become our toughest critics. This boats bottom was neglected over the years with basic maintenance. There is a little bit of minor damage in one section that needs attention to the glass, nothing terrible but still needs work. Just a lot of nicks, dings and deep gouges that need fairing compound and some barrier coatings.
    This may sound weird, but I just got to lazy to stop grinding. I did one side, and starting on the other. New shaft tube, rudder port and keel strut are being installed after all the grinding, fairing, and glass work are finished.
     
  7. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    There is a new tool that works great when stripping bottom paint............ear buds in place under hearing protection. Que up some good tunes and you are in your own zone. ;)
    You should have those boat stands chained together for safety.
     
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  8. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Well, it took some time but it was worth the effort. There are 3 things I will never do again in my life, grinding a boat is one of them.
    Thanks for the tips from all following the thread.
    Now, a week off for family vacation. Fairing compound next. Barrier coats, bottom paint and running gear.
     

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  9. restless

    restless Captain

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    My go to tool for hand scraping is a sharp wood chisel.
     
  10. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Nothing like a face lift with some fairing compound. Had a friend give me some help with it. Did some light sanding, ready for a two day window with 4 coats of 2000e, gray, white, gray, and white.
     

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  11. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    That's a lot of work! What did you use for fairing compound? I hope it sanded out easy enough. Some of the brands tend to clog the sandpaper even though they insist it's easy sanding.
     
  12. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Hey keelboater, thanks for the response. I used a product from a Jamestown Dist. Total boat. It worked pretty easy onto the bottom. Your right, sanding part was pricey with disc pads. I think I went through a 25-30 6” discs. 100 grit and it wasn’t too bad. Im glad I put in the time and effort. The bottom was in tough shape and needed attention. As great as these hulls are, they get abused over time and neglected by most owners. I found a section of the keel that needs work and should take 1/2 day prep and 1/2 day of tiger hair filler and some glassing with 1-1/2 mat and some roven woven. I have gone this far a short cut would be a little silly.
     
  13. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Found a little crack in the stem. After some grinding and prep work, seems the best option is some evercoat tiger hair filler followed by some 1-1/2 oz mat and resin for the fix work.
     

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  14. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    A few more shots
     

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  15. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    The tiger hair filler worked well in two applications. Now a little chopped strand mat and resin on top.
     

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  16. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    A little 1-1/2 oz mat and some resin, viola all better. Some light grinding after it cures. And then some barrier coats for the finish of this bottom redo debacle.
     

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  17. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Well, two coats of 2000e. I will do one more coat and then 2 coats of anti fouling bottom paint.
     

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  18. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    The last gray coat of 2000e and a fresh coat of Pettit unepoxy to overcoat.
     

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  19. morichesfisherman27

    morichesfisherman27 Captain

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    Lookn good! Keep on hittn it
     
  20. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    Thanks. Running gear and penetrations are next.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2018

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