Anchoring question?

Discussion in 'Tuna Talk' started by 30-06guy, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. 30-06guy

    30-06guy Senior Member

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    I've been thinking about my anchor setup for tuna fishing and had a couple of questions I was hoping you guys could give me some advice on. In the past I have only fished out of friends CC for tuna. Their anchor setup was 600 feet of rode with a chain and anchor on one end and a poly ball on the other. Depending on water depth , they would drop anchor and play out all the line till they were over the peice of ground that they wanted to fish. They would keep the last 6 feet or so with the ball in the boat and tie it off to the bow cleat. When they hooked up someone ran to the bow, untied the rope from the cleat and tossed the ball and rope over the bow. Then they would try to work the fish away from the anchor line .

    My boat is a Steiger Craft pilothouse. I'm thinking that it would be best to set up an anchor ball system that I can detach from without having to go to the bow. I see a lot of DE boats out fishing that use an anchor ball and a tether line . My thought was to build a setup like that. I was thinking I would run the tether thru my bow chock and down to the midship cleat. My plan is when I hook up to untie from the cleat and let the tether line drag up to the bow and out of the anchor chock. My question is what to use for the tether line? I would think that I would want a line that floats so it wouldn't suspended in the water and allow the fish to get wrapped up . My concern with a floating line is getting it wrapped in the prop coming back to it (especially in the dark ). Or another boat running through it and getting it wrapped in their prop. So I'm curious what you think, and how you like to setup your anchor system ?

    Thanks in advance,

    Rob
     
  2. cb34

    cb34 Captain

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    You have the right idea, floating line from the ball. We attach a small ball onto the tether line just ahead of the bow chock. Makes it easier when you return to anchor. As for fishing at night, never has been for me.....
     
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  3. The Gaff

    The Gaff Member

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    U attatch a lobster buoy near end u r tying to boat it should have a loop. U run whats called a PELICAN hook off your front cleat that is attached to that loop. U run a thin line/rope from pelican hook to a grab rail anywhere near your helm. Pull that line u release pelican hook and r free in a second. The lobster buoy is easy to c and grab when u retie. U always use a ring and ball to pull anchor from cockpit. Google pelican hook they run about $25 bucks. On crappy days that's one walk up to the bow after u anchor to attatch pelican hook u do the rest from the pit.
     
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  4. The Gaff

    The Gaff Member

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    shopping.jpg Here is a pic. Hang off cleat on bow measure it so it dosent bang the bow up. Loop goes through loop that is a 10ft length with a lobsta buoy on it that is attatched to your ball. Tie a thin line on the ring that holds it closed. U pull the line moving the ring hook opens and u r free. Hope it helps u out.
     
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  5. 30-06guy

    30-06guy Senior Member

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    Thanks . I've seen the pelican clips for sale at NE Marine in Portsmouth . I like the idea of a quick release and being free of the tether in an instant. Makes sense to add a second float at the tag end. I hadn't thought of that .
    Thanks again .
     
  6. Cdux

    Cdux Senior Member

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    In lue of the pelican hook you can run your painter line (floating) thru the bow chauk and back to a cleat in the cockpit. When you need to drop off just untie it will slide up the gunnel & out. If you do want a lobster pot on the line just tie it off 20-30' from the tag end.

    Always mob you ball, nothing more un-nerving than fighting a fish in the dark or fog w/o knowing where that floating poly is.

    600' is a lot of scope to be swinging on. Might start with 300' & the heaviest ground tackle you can manage, keep the other 300' handy to add on for the sloppy days.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2018
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  7. 30-06guy

    30-06guy Senior Member

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    My plan was to start with 300 feet and have several 150 foot lengths to add if I need them. I plan to put 20 feet of chain on my Danforth anchor to help keep my scope as short as possible and still hold bottom.

    I haven't done any night fishing. I appreciate all the advice and help. My biggest concern with the floating line was coming back to it in the dark and getting wrapped in the prop. My boat has a duoprop and that would be a hell of a mess.
     
  8. Squider42

    Squider42 Senior Member

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    That is something I always was curious about. What is the length that most boats go with? I can not see boats going with 600ft of line when anchored on the SW corner. That is a wide swing on tide change. Do the guys out there all the time keep to a certain length?
     
  9. Cdux

    Cdux Senior Member

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    As short as I can hold with, don't want be swinging off of MY NUMBERS ;)

    Calm days that's 10 fathom after hitting bottom, coiling the rest under the ball with a double sheet shank. Snotty days its the full 400' with 200' ready in the locker.
     
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  10. SPINE-A-LINER

    SPINE-A-LINER Member

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    I also run a strip of reflective tape around the tether line lobster pot and the anchor ball. Makes them easier to find in the dark with the spot light.
     
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  11. 30-06guy

    30-06guy Senior Member

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    So I got thinking about this today . My thought was that instead of hooking my painter line directly to the anchor ball I would run it thru the ring under the ball and attach it to the scope line with either a big shackle or another steel ring and add 4-5 pounds of weight to it. My theory is that when I disconnect the painter from the boat (either from a cleat or a pelican hook) the weight of the shackle will ride down the scope line and pull the painter in to the anchor ball until it hits the lobster bouy or whatever else you are useing for the float . I figured this way there would be no line floating on top of the water to get the fish or the boat wrapped up in. The painter line would then be pulled down and tight to the scope line . Just wondering if anyone else has tried something similar ?

    Rob
     
  12. 30-06guy

    30-06guy Senior Member

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    Great idea. I think I have some 3M reflective tape out in my barn.
     
  13. The Gaff

    The Gaff Member

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    U R way overthinking this. Use a length of polypropylene it floats , if you are worrying about seeing it ziptie a cyalume stick (sword light) to the end at dusk it will glow 12hours. U need the line free so u can retie up. Whos ass wants 2 b reaching under a ball to retie especially if its rough. Run back up 2 your ball( after u kill your fish..LOL ) from the down sea side of ball you know how much line u have hanging off its not that hard. Its the easiest part of the game.
     
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  14. 30-06guy

    30-06guy Senior Member

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    Makes sense. And by the way. I generally over think everything. Lol.
     
  15. tuna_fan

    tuna_fan Captain

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    keep it simple...as stated. shorten rode ... as stated. go with more chain that you think you need...and heavier than you need... the chain is what will help you the most... i'd go at least 150' poly after your ball. and keep another 300' of poly...for those days where everything is running toward the bow, you can fish stern to and fish under your poly.
     
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  16. BlueMack

    BlueMack Senior Member

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    Just like others have stated, I run 2 300ft lengthes connected with a screw lock quick link, one size up plow anchor, oversize chain and extra long, I use 2 ski tow ropes connected for my pendant, they float really well and easy to handle. I also use the Pelican hook, I dip the end in plasti coat to make setting it easier, just gives it a little traction.

    The plow anchor I have rigged with a recovery rig, tripping rig, basically the chain connected to a shackle at the crown/tripping ring, then a shackle at the eye and the chain gets zip tied to that with heavy duty zip ties, if the anchor gets stuck It break away from the arm and lifts up from the tripping ring.
     
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  17. 30-06guy

    30-06guy Senior Member

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    Thanks again guys. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and getting me on the right track.
     
  18. SemperFishBoston

    SemperFishBoston Senior Member

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    Closed loop side to Samson post. Opening to painter. Trip mechanism is 550/ parachute corded to the wheelhouse. Easy.
     

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  19. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    We do it two ways in boats without a hauler. Always we have a painter setup such that the buoy will not allow the anchor ring to pass over it, the anchor ring, and gloucester ball used to pull the anchor, get set out with the anchor.

    Way #1 - there is no loop on the end of the painter, it gets run through something (various things) up near the stem of the boat and comes back along the gunnel, tied off in the cockpit someplace. When this setup is unhooked you go back up to the bow to run it through again.

    Way #2 - we use a clothesline (big boat - a 48 that makes it a real pain to go up on the bow) built out of ~3/8 line and pulleys to hold the painter up off the bow - when we drop the anchor and pick it it up again, we slide the clothesline back to the cockpit, run the painter through the pulley for the painter, then rotate the clothesline back up to the bow.

    With either of these setups we leave the painter line running from where it's tied off in the cockpit, up through something in the bow, back down to the cockpit, where it's tied off again, when the anchor is not in use - we never need to hook up the anchor when re-launching it, stays setup like that.

    With a hauler you can skip the anchor ring part, use a clothesline or go up to the bow to put the painter back through - but IMHO those pelican clips are usually worthless, they only cause problems - certainly not going to take a nap sitting on the hook with one of those.

    Jon
     
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  20. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Oh and BTW - the painter does not really need to float, just makes it harder to pick back up again if it does not float. If you just use anchor line for the painter part it will sink away when you drop it.

    Jon
     
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