My first boat project

Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by Jerzy54, Dec 16, 2016.

  1. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    This time Sportcraft 222 w/225 OB Johnson..wishing for a DE
    That freaking cnc is awesome. Genius is right you can start glassin. Been glassing the last 3 weeks here in Pa. Some resins are 3:1, 4:, 2:1 and set up to account for the short quick hight temps. Well for epoxy. Thats what I use. Those stringers once fitted out could get glassed in your garage on the flat. Flat work is so much easier.
    If your boat is tarped might be 50 out but 70 in.
     
  2. Jerzy54

    Jerzy54 Member

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    Yes you are right,but this is my first fiberglassing work and I am tring to follow manufacture recomendation. I am using Raka epoxy to glue this pieces together and I ordered
    slow hardener with it. They are saying not to use below 60 deg. I will use polyester resin to wrap it up and attached to the hull. I just don't know better and I am worried about running
    out of time before resin will jell up.
     
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  3. morichesfisherman27

    morichesfisherman27 Captain

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    damn I always loved that cnc machine
     
  4. Old Mud

    Old Mud Captain

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    That's cheating using a CNC !!! Wish i had one so i could cheat to. Do you have to loft those pcs. out first then input the info ??
     
  5. El Mar

    El Mar Captain

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    I wish mine were bigger, we have table tops.

    Full sheets of plywood would change my boat building class.
     
  6. Jerzy54

    Jerzy54 Member

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    I wish I could have a digitizing table to go with that router, then I could cut pink foam to the shape of the hull and digitize it.
    It took 22 minutes for this ply to be finish and that was with two depths of cut.
     
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  7. Jerzy54

    Jerzy54 Member

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    I should rename this post to "The slowest project on DEBF", but here is an update. Finally, I glued, tabbed and skinned the transom on my Lady. I think I did pretty good job for the first glassing task. I post the picture later.

    I have one question for you guys about how many layers of the 1708 is sufficient. What I did is, I used Epoxy to glue transom to the skin and then I used Poly to soak outer side and I put one-layer CSM on it, then I used two layers

    of the 1708 tabbing first 4-inch-wide following with 8 inch around entire transom and at the end I skinned it with two layers of the 1708 first 2 inch smaller and second full size of the transom.

    The question I have is, do you think should I use third 1708 skin and on at the end tab it with 8-inch strips to the hull or what I did is enough.

    Any comments very appreciated.
     
  8. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    This time Sportcraft 222 w/225 OB Johnson..wishing for a DE
    Epoxy sticks to poly but poly does not adhere well to epoxy. But it sounds like you polyied over raw wood and thats ok.
    Your count and technique on the transom is right on the money in regards to counts and tabbing. DONE.
    2 glass
    2 tabs
    Wet on wet gives you a better chemical/mechanical bond.
    You can always do more that is your call.
     
  9. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    On another note when you make a batch of poly or epoxy spread it out, roll it as fast as is needed. Then return as your moving along to work it out.
    If it sits in the cup concentrated it will gel up way ahead of time.
     
  10. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    I can't quite picture what you are doing.. Can you take a picture?

    The deal with epoxy & polyester resin is sometimes polyester resin will not cure right over epoxy, if it does cure it sticks to it about as well as it sticks to anything that is cured and not capable of creating a primary bond (which isn't great but is simply how polyester works). Whatever you do never lay polyester and epoxy together if either is uncured, they must be fully cured.

    As far as tabbing goes, and again I can't quite picture how you are tabbing, I like doing it this way w/ polyester or vinylester:

    1. layer of 3/4 ounce mat if the surface is irregular (and if it's really irregular I'm gonna grind/smooth/fill prior to the 3/4 ounce mat)

    2. 1708 tabbing, starting from the largest to the smallest size - this is a much debated topic of which experts will guide you either way (small to large or large to small) but I feel starting with large and working down gets you a more reliable result that's easier.

    3. Cap off the tabbing with a layer of 3/4 ounce mat.
     
  11. Jerzy54

    Jerzy54 Member

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    I used Epoxy only to glue one side of the transom to the outer skin, just to have as much holding strength as possible. The other side wasn't epoxy at all and that's why I used
    poly to tab and skin it over. I followed guidance of the other forums for tabbing 4" first followed with 8".
     
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