26 Duffy repower

SemperFishBoston

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Big shout out to billy (the parts guy) at MerriMar in Newburyport. Great guy who works hard for us and outstanding value on top of that. Thanks again billy!
 

SemperFishBoston

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Also Mr. Larry at Accutech prop in dover nh. I have a 20x18 nibral 4 blade wide surface area prop enroute. Lead time is 1 week to arrive and a few more days for him to go over it, add cup, and make sure its otherwise on point.
 

SemperFishBoston

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Need to extend the stringers 10” so decided to just taking them to the bulkhead so i can add my power steering pump and wash down pump via a bracket and belt off each side to the pto. Prepping area. Glass work tomorrow.

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c1steve

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I recommend using epoxy resin for bonding to old polyester, where strength is important. Epoxy bonds with 6x the strength what glassing to old fiberglass.
 

SemperFishBoston

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I recommend using epoxy resin for bonding to old polyester, where strength is important. Epoxy bonds with 6x the strength what glassing to old fiberglass.
So use something like a west system six10 thickened epoxy to bond the new stringer to the old stuff before fiberglassing over?
 

xbskt

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Will you be notching and lapping the old stringer and new to add contact surface area? A lot stronger than a butt joint.
 

xbskt

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Ive been thinking about that. Do you mean something like a dove tail?
Same idea.
More like a step. Matching notches that you could glue (thickened epoxy) and screw before glass. A vee notch is also an option but tough in a bilge.
The idea is to create a mating surface that is a structure that is compressing on itself and resists rotational loads and stands up to axial loads.
A butt joint isn't enough in my opinion especially if it is on a stringer that will hold a motor.
Will your engine beds span across the joint?
 

PatriciaLynn

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I recommend using epoxy resin for bonding to old polyester, where strength is important. Epoxy bonds with 6x the strength what glassing to old fiberglass.
I have seen the difference quoted as much less that 6x. I believe PE is around 20% less strong. Important to consider, but not make or break. The boatworks today guy did a test and I was surprised. Pulled coosa apart before the poly failed.

 

SemperFishBoston

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Same idea.
More like a step. Matching notches that you could glue (thickened epoxy) and screw before glass. A vee notch is also an option but tough in a bilge.
The idea is to create a mating surface that is a structure that is compressing on itself and resists rotational loads and stands up to axial loads.
A butt joint isn't enough in my opinion especially if it is on a stringer that will hold a motor.
Will your engine beds span across the joint?
Yes they will. the aluminum angle will span the joint with the backing plate
 
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