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30’ Aluminum build, Jesse Lowell design
- Thread starter BentWheel
- Start date
steveinak
Admiral
this one is kinda hoaky but dressed up it does have merrit. Clever way of locking in the angle with the slots, lift and drop.
few more tilt out style
few more tilt out style
I like the A frame style. Easy to pull in out of the way. Dad had on on the 38 YB. Folding it up and out of the way made walking around it to put the boat on the moring easier.
Luckychahm
Deckhand
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- John
Another vote for fold out.
cb34
Admiral
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- Oct 31, 2011
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Works well....
BentWheel
1st Mate
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I appreciate the honesty. I went down yesterday with the intent to cut it down and restore it to what was there before, but got involved in something completely different...but it is not long for that boat.
ty For all of the input.
ty For all of the input.
steveinak
Admiral
We knew you'd see it our way
BentWheel
1st Mate
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It will get a couple coats with 235, followed by the 450 topcoat. The 700 is the “new and improved“ replacement for 450. They can be rolled, brushed or sprayed. If it’s getting sprayed, it will be someone else doing it - I am not that good at it.
on the davit front, it lived to see another day, lol. Making a hinge-able seat with two battery boxes on each side. the center will house ventilation, hoses, cables etc, while the two outboard boxes will be batteries. When bedded it will also serve as steps up and over the transom.
you can’t believe how comfortable a hunk of metal can be…even just roughly cut/placed
Still hanging around
steveinak
Admiral
that will be one hot seat in the summer.
traditions
Admiral
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- Boat Make
- 38 Holland
Is that a Nationlal Marine block that has been polished?
lol
I believe PPG Amercoat is Ameron 235, the same as Devoe 235 Bar Rust, a super epoxy paint for metal boats. Ameron bought Devoe a while back. I believe the paint is still sold under the Devoe name as well.
This paint is very thick. The best method of applying it is sprayed with a heated fluid system. Binks and others make these. Hot water flows through a hose in hose system. Super thick paint comes out like milk. As soon as it hits the metal, it stiffens up immediately.
If you use thinner to thin the paint, there will be solvent blisters below the waterline if it is kept in the water. Above the waterline the thinner will evaporate out and reduce the gloss of the top coat.
Personally I would sandblast the boat, spray on the first coat of epoxy, then wait at least one day for the solvents to evaporate. If using a heated system, might not have to wait a day. Spray on three coats of contrasting colors, then a coat of LPU/Awlgrip/etc. Wait a day and spray on the second coat of topcoat.
Super job bent wheel, and the speed of build is very impressive.
This paint is very thick. The best method of applying it is sprayed with a heated fluid system. Binks and others make these. Hot water flows through a hose in hose system. Super thick paint comes out like milk. As soon as it hits the metal, it stiffens up immediately.
If you use thinner to thin the paint, there will be solvent blisters below the waterline if it is kept in the water. Above the waterline the thinner will evaporate out and reduce the gloss of the top coat.
Personally I would sandblast the boat, spray on the first coat of epoxy, then wait at least one day for the solvents to evaporate. If using a heated system, might not have to wait a day. Spray on three coats of contrasting colors, then a coat of LPU/Awlgrip/etc. Wait a day and spray on the second coat of topcoat.
Super job bent wheel, and the speed of build is very impressive.
AW_Holland32
Commodore
Are you the new owner of that holland 38?
Luckychahm
Deckhand
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- John
My father is.
On the Ameron 235, there is no way you could paint that with a roller and brush without adding a ton of thinner. Best to have someone sandblast the boat and immediately spray on a coat of epoxy. Get the first coat completely on within an hour if at all possible. Second coat can wait a day or two, or longer as long as the paint is slightly soft.
Spraying epoxy with an airless is as easy as spraying the side of a house with an airless. Spraying the LPU is what takes more skill. If using Awlgrip, the secret to keeping the paint from running is to wait 30-40 minutes between coats.
I used to spray on a coat, wait 10-15 minutes and apply a second coat. Everything looked great, glossy and no sags. So 15 minutes later, applied coat #3 and had runs everywhere. Eventually realized it was not the application going on too heavy, it was not allowing enough time for the paint to set up. If it takes 10 minutes to go around the boat spraying the LPU, then start 30 minutes after the last coat of LPU so the time will be 40 minutes between coats at any particular point.
Spraying epoxy with an airless is as easy as spraying the side of a house with an airless. Spraying the LPU is what takes more skill. If using Awlgrip, the secret to keeping the paint from running is to wait 30-40 minutes between coats.
I used to spray on a coat, wait 10-15 minutes and apply a second coat. Everything looked great, glossy and no sags. So 15 minutes later, applied coat #3 and had runs everywhere. Eventually realized it was not the application going on too heavy, it was not allowing enough time for the paint to set up. If it takes 10 minutes to go around the boat spraying the LPU, then start 30 minutes after the last coat of LPU so the time will be 40 minutes between coats at any particular point.
BentWheel
1st Mate
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Ha, it won’t be too bad painted a light color, painted dark it would be a cooking surface somedays.
anyway, it’s really just a cover for a ventilation shaft, hoses/cables etc. each side is for the Eng batteries. Getting a seat and steps out of it is a bonus.
also, cut in a trunk cabin vent hatch - I’ve been waiting to do any amount of welding down there until I could slap a fan on the roof to suck the fumes out -
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BentWheel
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Starting to layout trunk cabin.
Cut in hatch so I can service bilge pump (not yet installed). It’s hinged - which means that the step has to be sturdy, yet removable … it is both.
Small head will be to port. Planning a (removable) fill piece in the void between the two bunks to make it one large bunk…if that makes sense
Was a bit screwy, optical elusion-wise - everything running up hill, just had to trust what was “right”
Cut in the hatch
My version of a removable step - made out of pieces that were laying around
Above, prior to being sanded down
convincing Metal that it wants to do this…
The edge looks better now cleaned up a bit
Cut in hatch so I can service bilge pump (not yet installed). It’s hinged - which means that the step has to be sturdy, yet removable … it is both.
Small head will be to port. Planning a (removable) fill piece in the void between the two bunks to make it one large bunk…if that makes sense
Was a bit screwy, optical elusion-wise - everything running up hill, just had to trust what was “right”
Cut in the hatch
My version of a removable step - made out of pieces that were laying around
Above, prior to being sanded down
convincing Metal that it wants to do this…
The edge looks better now cleaned up a bit
Last edited:
sammdawson
1st Mate
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Don't want to de-rail the most bad ass thread on DEBF but can you post photos of your dads boat somewhere. I gotta see more
BentWheel
1st Mate
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Good morning, yesterdays storage unit
