ackshark11
Lieutenant
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2011
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Any info on this hull or where to research. Know it's a decent hull but hard to find much research on them. Pros, Cons Thanks
Any info on this hull or where to research. Know it's a decent hull but hard to find much research on them. Pros, Cons Thanks
I owned one for five years - 1988/1993. Bare bones model without a bridge. Nice boat, great lines. Rolled quite a bit on the drift. Some issues in a following sea. 14 knots top with 200hp Perkins. Balsa cored hull. If it has spray rails check for leaks around the mounting bolts.
Heard the original 30' was a beal design. Boat looks solid just worried about the cored hull and roll on the drift with a soft chine as I'm on the drift most of the time. Any info is good
I purchased my SISU 30 four years ago, now 3rd owner and overtime I'v stopped most if not all water migration. We came back from offshore yesterday in very bumpy conditions and enjoyed a dry & safe ride. Since owning this boat I've corrected problems typical with any balsa or otherwise cored boat by removing the hardware, i.e. bolts in spray & side rails, side cleats, bridge hold down screws, bow rail station bolts, seams between V birth and wheel house. The list just on and on so that's why it's taken a labor of love during my ownership. Typically where through bolt hardware is used such as spray rails, I've removed the old hardware and drilled out a 1/2" hole from the inside FG layer and stopped at the outer layer. I took a small allen key mounted in a drill with the short end out and reamed out as much balsa core as I can. Then used Boatrite epoxy for wet & dry wood and coated the exposed core. Filled each hole with hull & deck filler and did the same all over again after drilling new holes for the new hardware, i.e. spray rails. Also pumped in the same epoxy under pressure using a syringe which pushed out water and sealed off the delaminated area. My wheel house is dry with a new headliner and I know that if any calking fails around any hardware, I have a protection from water instruction to the balsa core. Any penetration needs an epoxy barrier between the core and hole which I believe insulates the core from the environment. Also note the south bay trainer was removed, the self tapping screw holes were enlarged, treated and stainless steel 1/4-20 inserts installed.