32 Holland new build getting started soon

leaky

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you've got a lot done even with a week off.
Not sure where you get the energy ? :)

Funny the last month has been really slow - a lot of the time and brain cycles I would love to be spending putting the deck on went into dreaming about windows.

Just couldn't get it a design I was confident was the best I could do. Something always irked me about what I had, back of my mind saying "no, not quite right - keep thinking".. Eventually got to accepting Brooksies idea w/ the two side windows and now I can move on.

Also Josh at Wynne helped me get through how the fronts will open, not 1/2 or 2/3 rather 3/4 - I am short and naturally stand low. Side window pattern in this picture was thrown out but you can see me figuring eye level at rest and 12.5 degrees. Someone else got a kick out of this..

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PatriciaLynn

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Thanks but I must have written something confusing. Going back at one point I was going to use deck drains with fittings and such, I just decided against it for this design.

By drains I just meant scuppers, however we refer to them - the 3 & 1 inch holes I cut in the transom. Both are easily plugged in a pinch however.

If it was confusing to look at, those round holes in the deck are deck hatches, so I can replace the generator exhaust (stainless outlet in picture) or tighten clamps, and to get at bilge pumps and high water alarms.

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I knew where you were coming from. I haul heavy loads in my boat a few times a year. Need to be able to plug up the scuppers and load her full. Most days, I want a scupper with a flap so I dont scoop water onto the deck while sitting on the mooring.
 

leaky

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I knew where you were coming from. I haul heavy loads in my boat a few times a year. Need to be able to plug up the scuppers and load her full. Most days, I want a scupper with a flap so I dont scoop water onto the deck while sitting on the mooring.

Ahh ok. Yes the 1 inch hole would accommodate use of a 1.5 inch flapper setup yet could still take a standard 1 inch rubber bilge plug. Flapper style I am speaking of is below.

Then on the test plug, one of these re-rigged with stainless hardware, and you just trim a piece of the plastic away (on the side with the wing nut) so it can sit flush to the deck on the inside (assuming you want to install it on the inside). I might also paint the side you see outside of the boat white just for cosmetics if I was going to leave it most of the time, but that's not my plan. But to also have a flapper, not sure, is some way, just didn't dream it up as my vision is no restriction on the big hole rather just to plug it if desired.


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leaky

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Update...

I spent some time getting my autopilot rudder position sensor figured out. Decided to sister another end on my tiller for the sensor - looks a little odd but the piece of scrap from a different failed idea just fit right. I isolated the aluminum from bronze with a bit of plastic, similar to how I mounted my cylinder.

In doing this I was trying to follow the numerous recommendations to put a tiller stop in the system, now theoretically if say the cylinder just fell apart the travel is limited in both directions (until or unless something else gives way of course). I finished that off with a couple metal plates, basically to shim things just right and to make it so during such a catastrophic event the metal parts don't just tear a hole in the fiberglass bulkhead.

I mounted all the deck hardware that is possible at this stage. Now I am debating fuel tank design, which hopefully is easier than the windows but has had me tied up for a bit...

My original design idea was a tank in the 200 gallon range, which forced the (absolutely needed) center swivel rod holders to be side mount, some bracketry down to the deck sort of thing or a beam across the transom. I am rethinking that to the pictured 160 gallon footprint, which both gets the tank away from your feet and is tight but allows the rod holders to mount as drawn on the trap deck. Picking up some holders to verify the whole situation before having the tank built.

Fuel capacity wise I am thinking, 90% of what I do I need like 40 gallons or less. 8% of what I do will need more but even 140 would be enough. 2% of the time I may need more - thinking if I really hit a need for more fuel I will build an additional removable tank of some sort, that doesn't have to be in my way 100% of the time, only the 2% when I need it, but that theoretical day also might just never materialize.

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leaky

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Two saddle tanks not an option?

Sure it is an option, just creates the same sort of consideration in 2 different areas of about the same length. Under the trap deck though you can leave room for your toes not to hit, really hard to do that in a saddle tank and still have lots of capacity as the depth to work with just isn't there, also less room above as you go forward. Going to measure it up though just for shits and giggles.

Was thinking once the boat is floating I can see if it favors a side, then if I want a 2nd tank nobody says I couldn't add say a single 40 gallon saddle tank get to my full desired 200 gallon capacity if I wanted. Would just plum it with a transfer pump to the main tank, once you burnt some off open a a safety valve and move it over. Going to have 2x returns and pickups on the tank, in case the boat ever goes diesel, so any satellite tank could just be connected to a return with an inline electric pump.
 

xbskt

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Sure it is an option, just creates the same sort of consideration in 2 different areas of about the same length. Under the trap deck though you can leave room for your toes not to hit, really hard to do that in a saddle tank and still have lots of capacity as the depth to work with just isn't there, also less room above as you go forward. Going to measure it up though just for shits and giggles.

Was thinking once the boat is floating I can see if it favors a side, then if I want a 2nd tank nobody says I couldn't add say a single 40 gallon saddle tank get to my full desired 200 gallon capacity if I wanted. Would just plum it with a transfer pump to the main tank, once you burnt some off open a a safety valve and move it over. Going to have 2x returns and pickups on the tank, in case the boat ever goes diesel, so any satellite tank could just be connected to a return with an inline electric pump.
For the 2 percent you could use a bladder too.
Keep going. Looks great.
 

PatriciaLynn

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I can run my boat from the Canal to Portland on 60 gallons. If you need more than 140 you are headed a LONG way off. I found some 15 gallon plastic jugs that hold fuel really nice. Just grab two of those if you need the extra range. Not worth worrying about for <10% of the time.
 

PatriciaLynn

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I get these locally, but you get the idea...https://volunteerdrum.com/product/used-15-gallon-plastic-closed-head-drum/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=shp&utm_network=u&utm_mobile=01&utm_creative=447713615992&utm_position=&utm_random=10642086502624484838&gclid=CjwKCAjwhYOFBhBkEiwASF3KGZsaXtjMDwyJUxtuUOtgPL53WhWNImKsNf3E_ovlOfiEn6k-2fWpNRoCTS0QAvD_BwE&utm_campaign=smart%20shopping%20-%20united%20states&utm_ad_group_id=98186&utm_campaign_id=375829&utm_prod_id=3407
 

leaky

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I can run my boat from the Canal to Portland on 60 gallons. If you need more than 140 you are headed a LONG way off. I found some 15 gallon plastic jugs that hold fuel really nice. Just grab two of those if you need the extra range. Not worth worrying about for <10% of the time.

I am figuring 1.5 MPG and the 1/3 rule - basically leave enough extra fuel to get home twice. So assuming 160 gallons (and is a little less usable but in this sorta tank you really can use nearly all of it) that's basically 80 miles somewhere, 80 miles home, 80 miles of fuel in reserve...

Really no ambition to go east that far, surely not any more than that, but could exceed that going up or down the coast, though you can duck in somewhere for fuel on such a course too.

I am thinking my whole idea of possibly using gasoline/Ethanol rated resin, and building a custom glass tank, would be the thing to do for some supplementary saddle tank if I wanted to go there - like a year after the boat is done when I find myself craving some fumes. Then I could do some really custom thing all notched to fit under rod holders, and just being a supplemental tank I could remove it from the boat and store it dry when I have no need for it.

Whatever the case I do think this shrunk down tank is the way to go - it will be mostly out of the way of your feet and allows nice clean rod holder installation, yet still 160 gallons is nothing to scoff at.
 

PatriciaLynn

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I am figuring 1.5 MPG and the 1/3 rule - basically leave enough extra fuel to get home twice. So assuming 160 gallons (and is a little less usable but in this sorta tank you really can use nearly all of it) that's basically 80 miles somewhere, 80 miles home, 80 miles of fuel in reserve...

Really no ambition to go east that far, surely not any more than that, but could exceed that going up or down the coast, though you can duck in somewhere for fuel on such a course too.

I am thinking my whole idea of possibly using gasoline/Ethanol rated resin, and building a custom glass tank, would be the thing to do for some supplementary saddle tank if I wanted to go there - like a year after the boat is done when I find myself craving some fumes. Then I could do some really custom thing all notched to fit under rod holders, and just being a supplemental tank I could remove it from the boat and store it dry when I have no need for it.

Whatever the case I do think this shrunk down tank is the way to go - it will be mostly out of the way of your feet and allows nice clean rod holder installation, yet still 160 gallons is nothing to scoff at.
I forgot about the gas engine (which I fully support). The 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 rule is a good one to follow as you learn your boat, but after a season of running it, you will have a pretty accurate idea of what you will burn on longer trips. Then you can stretch her legs even further. Georges would be within reach of Chatham with 160 gallons. The Fippennies would be easy at only 70 miles off.
 

leaky

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I forgot about the gas engine (which I fully support). The 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 rule is a good one to follow as you learn your boat, but after a season of running it, you will have a pretty accurate idea of what you will burn on longer trips. Then you can stretch her legs even further. Georges would be within reach of Chatham with 160 gallons. The Fippennies would be easy at only 70 miles off.

What I worry about more, and sure probably 1/3 is overkill, is if the weather turns and that 4 hour ride home turns into an 8 hour slog with them in the chin the whole way. Nice to not be thinking about fuel right about then.

And I agree you can definitely over do it too - last boat held 180 and really 120 would have been better suited. It's nice to top the tank off and know exactly what you are starting with, without putting 1300 lbs into a 26 ft hull like I had at the time.
 

leaky

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I am sure it is in the thread somewhere, but what is the projected fuel GPH for this gas engine?

The short of it is I think on a cruise (and ballparking it's hard to say if we are taking knots or miles), 10 GPH-ish, somewhere in the 15 to 20 speed range will be about 1.5 MPG - is that going to happen closer to 15 or closer to 20 is probably the question.

The long of it..

Glenn had said he expects 1.5 to 2 MPG w/ gas engines at a cruise around 16-18, and just for reference, diesel 2 to 2.5 w/ a cruise around 18-20 was my recollection. Hard to say what they get in the real world w/ gas engines because when you do see them they are almost never the current technology w/ MPI and such. However the diesel boats always seem to see > 2 even beyond 20 knot cruise, even on older 32 Hollands that aren't built so light with towers on them and such - so in short I think Glenn gives real honest info.

My engine is a slightly newer version of the 8.2 MAG listed @ 380 HP below. What is wrong in this chart is my operating range is 4200 to 4600, or in other words makes full HP at no more than 4600 RPM.

EngineHPIdle100015002000250030003500400045004800WOT
MerCruiser 3.0 MPI/TKS – 181 cid135 hp0.511.52.93.84.86.27.49.310.510.5 GPH
MerCruiser 4.3 TKS – 262 cid190 hp0.61.12.53.956.17.510.514.51616.0 GPH
MerCruiser 4.3 MPI – 262 cid220 hp0.61.22.544.568.512161818.0 GPH
MerCruiser 4.5 MPI – V6250 hp0.71.32.245.96.68.110.114.619.719.7 GPH
MerCruiser 5.0 TKS – 305 cid220 hp0.81.52.84.96.68.19.411.516.318.218.2 GPH
MerCruiser 5.0 MPI – 305 cid260 hp0.91.42.54.567.91012.51618.518.5 GPH
MerCruiser 5.7 L – 350 cid260 hp11.42.54.56.68.79.812.517.22121.0 GPH
MerCruiser 5.7 MAG – 350 cid300 hp11.52.54.567.51012.516.52323.0 GPH
MerCruiser 6.2 MAG – 377 cid320 hp1.1234.57911.5141824.524.5 GPH
MerCruiser 7.4 MPI – 454 cid310 hp1.32.53.56.19.912.517.42228.528.5 GPH
MerCruiser 8.1 MAG – 496 cid375 hp1.22.33.55.5811.51520.527.530.530.5 GPH
MerCruiser 8.1 HO – 496 cid425 hp1.22.64.56811.51621.528.533.533.5 GPH
MerCruiser 8.2 MAG – 502 cid380 hp1.22.3478.51114.519.5273131.0 GPH
MerCruiser 8.2 HO – 502 cid430 hp1.22.547.59.512.51721.52937.537.5 GPH

Then I go look at a couple reference points - a bigger and a smaller boat..

Here is info from post from the forum recently a fairly full finished 35 Duffy w/ an 8.1 gas MPI, Duffy 35 gasser numbers..

1000 rpm 4.9k= 2.7gph
1500 rpm 6.1k= 3.5gph
2000 rpm 8.0k= 5.3gph
2200 rpm Hull "planes" 8.5k= 7.2gph
2500 rpm 9.9k= 10.2gph
2800 rpm 11k= 10.8gph
3000 rpm 12.5= 12.2gph
3200 rpm 13.8k= 14.4gph
3500 rpm 15.5k= 17gph
3700 rpm 16.8k= 19.8gph
3900 rpm 18k= 21.9gph
4300 rpm= 19.9k= 28.4gph
4500 rpm= 21.4k= 30gph


And here is some info from AJ boats, ie the 28 AJ, AJBoats.com

Gasoline engines (multi-port fuel injected):

16kts-6.0gph 20kts-8.0gph 24kts-12.0gph 28kts-24.0gph


Soooo in short, I figure my 32 Holland, albeit not a real light one or anything, probably on the heavier side of todays 32 Hollands as I've got generator, AC, fresh water, hot water, etc.. etc.. Should fall someplace between a 28 AJ & a 35 Duffy.
 

PatriciaLynn

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Makes sense. Having a little extra will be good if the speed or fuel burn #'s are not quite as good as expected. Still give you the range to get there.
 

leaky

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Got the tank pattern good I think - slides under there just right, suitable capacity, room for your feet(1st pic is showing the 3.75 inches the tank is set in, taken by a level), room for rod holders.

I think on the two center holders on the trap deck am going to use these 10 inch Tigress ones, basically because I want them to also deal with stand up rods (shorter holder, other one is by Joe Rod Holder Guy). May use the deeper Tigress ones all around elsewhere - all 316, a nice cast gimbal - only thing I am not quite sold on is the stud size appears to be 7/16 or metric. Odd. But a 3/4 wrench still fits, believe the nuts are an 11/16. For the $130 I can find them for, appear to be the best value around lately.

Now am doing a massive prep job as I prepare to finish the deck - I liked my glassed on flanges so much am gonna use those throughout (original plan was bolt on so I gelcoated). Will stew on the tank as I do this labor.

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