Advice on Minor Repair

jrg

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I'm looking for some tips on a minor repair that I need to make this spring. I had an unfortunate "encounter" with a dock last fall and bent the boweye and delaminated about 2" of glass to one side of the eye. This is what it looks like partially ground out, but I'm in good glass already. If I'm not mistaken, I ground through 1.5oz CSM and 1708 on top to get to this layer. I plan to feather it out a bit and use Vinylester and cloth to build back up and finish with thickened gelcoat. Any tips?



 

Eastporter

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Sold- 20' Eastporter (Rebuilt 2011) 22' Pearson Ensign
Since this is a heavy duty area (bow eye)- I would use a layer or two of 1708 and epoxy it. Fair, sand, prime, paint. It doesn't have to be too big (I'd go a little bigger in area than what you ground- I see more damage up about three inches), but you might want to put a layer on the inside of the hull (bow) while you're at it for more strength. This area takes a lot of abuse due to my main mooring clip and constant pulling on the bow eye.
 
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Bill

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27 Terry Jason
If it were me I would put a couple layers of 1708 on the inside..riase the trailer jack so the bow is at a slope.. fill holes with epoxy and high density filler with west systems caulking tube..use quickfair on outside..re drill (.02)

62677_3.jpg
 

tunaorlater

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By looking at the picture i'm going to guess Sisu??
 

jrg

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It's an Eastern 24. Those black specs aren't really black - just "dimples" in the material. Not sure why the pictures look that way. It looks like a pattern in the material. Anyone know how Eastern lays their hulls?
 

jrg

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As a side-note, the hull in this area is about 6" thick. There's a huge wedge glassed into the hull to back the eye. So I'm not overly concerned about ading glass behind the repair.
 

Downeaster

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As a side-note, the hull in this area is about 6" thick. There's a huge wedge glassed into the hull to back the eye. So I'm not overly concerned about ading glass behind the repair.
If there is that much glass there and the impact didn't actually 'leverage' the bow eye and create some hidden damage (not likely with that glass thickness you've mentioned) you just need to use a compatible fairing compound - no glass needed. This stuff should be easy to sand - perhaps someone here can name the stuff that Joe Sargent uses to fair the visible portions of the interior (the wheelhouse overhead, for instance). You'll then have a decision about the type of color you'll need to blend the repair area to the surrounding gelcoat.
 
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