Baby Hinckley Project begins

CaptMD

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Fishonnelsons

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Aboard_Adventurer

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If you can live with the lower flow requirements, I really like electric diaphragm bilge pumps. I have a Johnson Viking pump similar to this one except mine is the larger variant. VIKING POWER 16 WASTE PUMP 12V SINGLE DIAPHRAGM
They are mounted way up out of the bilge with just a suction hose and strainer down in the water/below decks. Low profile where you need it. They also have a manual crank handle for emergencies.

I've had the passive ventilators in our last boat and was never all that impressed. For actually moving air below decks I'd take a look at the solar vents.

Mascerators are all terrible. All of them. Whatever you buy, make sure it is installed in a place that is easily accessable and easy to swap out. Presuming you will have the mascerator pump-out and a deck pump-out, there is no need for a troublesome Y valve. The hose out of the tank can be tee'd with one side going to the pump/seacock and the other going to the deck fitting. When you're inside the 3 mile pumpout limit the seacock is legally supposed to be closed, at which point the deck pump will work as intended.

Good luck.
 

CaptMD

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CaptMD

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Pitou

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It's a low height bilge so it has to be a low profile or small pump. I really want a dry bilge with so much wood on this boat.

So question 1. Anyone have a small or low profile bilge pump or dry bilge system recommendation, preferably one they have a good first-hand experience with, but I'm open to hearing any suggestions. The low profile Rule bilge pump has terrible reviews for continuous short cycling and a very short life span. Maybe someone here can tell me if this Rule pump is better Rule Dry Bilge Pump & Panel Switch Has anyone used the Whale Super Sub Pump? Whale Super Sub Pump Or the Arid Dry Bilge System, is it worth 800 bucks?

First off, you have a beautiful boat.
I needed to get into a pretty compact space with a bilge pump in my keel pocket beneath my shaft. The Rule and Whale would not fit, so I went with the Johnson SPX Low Boy 1250 gph which is much more compact. It's also available in a 750 gph and the pump cartridges are replaceable. I wired it to the Johnson electro-magnetic switch and this combination has not skipped a beat and has been trouble free.

Here are a couple of links:
Pump: Johnson Low Boy Non-Automatic Bilge Pump
Switch: JOHNSON PUMP Electro-Magnetic Bilge Pump Float Switch | West Marine
Johnson Pump Electro Magnetic Float Switch 12v

Here is a good read on installing an additional DIY dry bilge system for residual water:
A dry bilge for $50 - Panbo
 

Aboard_Adventurer

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Thanks Aboard_Adventurer, this is the kind of responses from this forum I'm looking for.
I have questions, though. The ventilation is to move air through the bilge, how does a solar vent get installed there?
And regards to no Y valve design, I don't have 2 pumps which is what I think you're saying. This toilet uses gravity flow with the toilet sitting right on the holding tank, so that when you flush, waste goes directly into the tank. See the picture in my link. The macerator pump is for pumping out the tank to either the overboard discharge or the pump-out, hence a Y valve to choose.

I misread your requirements for ventilating the bilge. In that case I'd be tempted to just set up some forward facing cowl vents on each side of the house with hoses leading down into the bilge for positive flow in, and then one or two aft facing vents or transom vents for pulling the air thru and out. This is what every single gasoline-powered inboard boat must have per USCG for keeping the fumes out of the bilge and engine box and from personal experience it works quite well and has no moving parts.

You don't need a pump for the deck pump-out fitting, at least, I've never seen it done that way. The single macerator pump is typically used just for pumping overboard when you're in a legal area to do so. The hose up to the deck pump-out flange is just directly routed to the tank and the suction pump in the pump-out station takes care of the rest. I would NOT want to be on the business end of a forced pump-out system were it to have a leak!!
 

CaptMD

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Brooksie

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I have a friend with Whale Super Sub and no complaints. If you use an automatic pump, which I have used with good results on Whalers, it will awaken you at night while it tests for water every so often.

I have the Beckson vent on my boat 20 years. It does move air as advertised but needs air blowing over it. It completely excludes water even green waater coming over it. The solar powered ones don't move as much air but work without wind blowing over. Remember when you have a out vent, you need an in vent.

I would always use a Groco 109 pump switch.

As to head systems. The simplest is usually the best. A tank, thruhull w/ rear facing clamshell, and "Y" valve w/ no stops is all you need. The val;ve can connect the head with thruhull, or tank, then connect tank to thruhull for emptying when offshore. A pump out deck fitting can be teed in for pumpout if desired. No pumps, no wires, no repairs. Legal if the handle is off the valve in a drawer.
 

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Pitou

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Thanks Pitou. I never thought I'd have a boat like this!
And this info is great. I can't believe that that pump is only 30 bucks. How long have you had it installed?
I've had that pump in my keel pocket since May of 2014 and it does not sit idle. The pricing made me a bit shy too, but as I said .. it hasn't skipped a beat and has been trouble free.
I have the same style Johnson cartridge pump in a different configuration in use for my livewell and trouble free there too.
 

CaptMD

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Brooksie

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"But I have to say, I'm totally confused how the waste can get out of the tank if there's no pump"
It's drawn out by the motion of the boat thru the rear facing clamshell. "Y" valve 1) head to thruhull. 2) head to tank. 3) tank to thruhull.
 

ArchHibb

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Does the line between tank and thruhull w/ clamshell have to be all downsloping or can the Venturi effect overcome some rise to accommodate the height of the seacock?
 

Blitzen

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Cap, someone posted this a few days ago I think Blitzen. It looks kike it would be a good option for keeping her dry. I forget whre that thread is but maybe you could Search.

Dry Bilge Pump Rule | Xylem US

Also this is what i think looks real good for your instillation. Although i don't know of any installed.

Old Mud this is what we installed in the new boat. Hope it works well.
 

Baggywrinkle

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Re: #6 - Solar Install.

I installed Renogy's 100 watt panel & controller and I'm delighted at how it keeps my battery topped off & small fridge cold while at my mooring. Install was easy. Luckily I had a removable panel on the house ceiling that made it easy to pull & hide the cables. My interior is nowhere near as polished as yours...cosmetics might be the biggest challenge.

I see that Amazon lists everything needed for a 200 W install at $ 405. The smart controller allows you to choose the charging parameters according to your battery type. A bluetooth-enabled monitor allows wireless checking of performance.
 

Baggywrinkle

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PS- Why use flex panels? Fixed panels cost less.
PPS- No fog down there in Eliot? (Radar?)
 
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