Bedding compound for PVC toe/spray rails, thru hulls etc.

Toolate

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Looking for some advise on this- need to bed a number of new bronze thru hulls (below the water line), some plastic ones above the water line, PVC toe/spray rails as well. Was going to make the toe rails out of wood but too much to do now...

After searching this place I am thinking 4200 for all of the thru hulls but not sure about the toe/spray rails. Read a number of endorsements for 5200 and "Rule 300" (First Team?) but cant find any info on it and I dont want to fall back on 5200 because I can just imagine the mess...

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Hull is cored and that has been removed and filled with H&D already.
 

F/V First Team

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Sudbury Elastomeric Marine Sealant

Caulking HD Marine Clear 10 Oz Cartridge

Sudbury Elastomeric Marine Sealant

Elastomeric Marine Sealant
A one-part, fast skinning (10 minutes) and fast curing (24 hours) multi-purpose marine grade sealant with superior strength, adhesion, elongation and life characteristics. Cures in temperatures of -20°F (-28.9°C) to 120°F (-48.9°C) and can be wet sanded and painted after curing. Flexibility and compression capabilities are excellent. Heavy duty use above or below the waterline. Twists, bends, expands, compresses. Seals ports, beds hardware, stops leaks. Resistant to teak cleaners, oil, diesel fuel and salt water. Adheres tenaciously without primers to fiberglass, glass, plastic, metal and wood. Simple clean up with mineral spirits. Not recommended for wooden deck seams or use in areas subject to gasoline.
Model 300 White, 10 fl. oz. (296 ml), Cartridge
Model 301 Clear 10 fl. oz. (296 ml), Cartridge
Model 302 Black, 10 fl. oz. (296 ml), Cartridge
Model 320 White, 3 fl. oz. (89 ml), Tube
Model 321 Clear, 3 fl. oz. (89 ml), Tube
Model 322 Black, 3 fl. oz. (89 ml), Tube
 

captchuck

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What info are you looking for?

Sudbury Elastomeric Marine Sealant

Caulking HD Marine Clear 10 Oz Cartridge

Sudbury Elastomeric Marine Sealant

Elastomeric Marine Sealant
A one-part, fast skinning (10 minutes) and fast curing (24 hours) multi-purpose marine grade sealant with superior strength, adhesion, elongation and life characteristics. Cures in temperatures of -20°F (-28.9°C) to 120°F (-48.9°C) and can be wet sanded and painted after curing. Flexibility and compression capabilities are excellent. Heavy duty use above or below the waterline. Twists, bends, expands, compresses. Seals ports, beds hardware, stops leaks. Resistant to teak cleaners, oil, diesel fuel and salt water. Adheres tenaciously without primers to fiberglass, glass, plastic, metal and wood. Simple clean up with mineral spirits. Not recommended for wooden deck seams or use in areas subject to gasoline.
Model 300 White, 10 fl. oz. (296 ml), Cartridge
Model 301 Clear 10 fl. oz. (296 ml), Cartridge
Model 302 Black, 10 fl. oz. (296 ml), Cartridge
Model 320 White, 3 fl. oz. (89 ml), Tube
Model 321 Clear, 3 fl. oz. (89 ml), Tube
Model 322 Black, 3 fl. oz. (89 ml), Tube


Are any of these capable of being used on pvc rails with minimal hardware or is plexus the way to go?
 

F/V First Team

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I use the clear like I'm selling it, it is super groovy stuff and does a fantastic job.

Never used the white.

And the black is tenacious. Wear clothes that you hate, maybe that new sweater you got at Christmas.
 

Toolate

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OK that is the stuff I have found from just googling around but its not called "rule" 300 as far as I can see so thanks very much for confirming that.

Should I use it for thru hulls too? Bronze and plastic. Rub rail? Its black rubber from Barbour... need to glue some shit as you can see.

Also, you mentioned in an old thread that you clean it off after curing with a knife. Is this for surfaces that will be painted or does it really clean off that well? I know it will drizzle out here and there on my gelcoat and will clean it off and tape etc.

Thank you kindly sir. You are an encyclopedia of boat (and other) knowledge.

Amazing the debates that rage on about what to bed things in really.
 

F/V First Team

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They've changed their logo but it will always be Rule to me.

You can just score it with your pocket knife under the rail/thru hull/window frame/whatever you got going on and pull the excess off once it has skinned over and started to harden up. Don't worry about a little bit that stays behind if you have a large lump that hasn't cured enough, just give it a few minutes and pick it off with your finger nail or similar tool.

The tape method works well, where you outline your project in tape, mark the tape and then cut and peel away what you don't need, then after you have goo everywhere pull your tape, you will still need to score and break the skin of the sealant though. Always score it, that way when you remove the excess you don't wind up pulling it out from under what you just bedded down.

99% of the time I don't use the tape method, usually just because I'm moving quickly and it's no big deal to go back after lunch and peel off the excess. If it's around something fancy like plush interior you should use drop cloths (a couple of them, layers never hurt anyone) but even so the clear cleans right up with a little bit of finger nail work off most surfaces, just let it harden up a little bit. The black? Well it's tenacious, sticks to every damn thing in sight and you really need to work to get that stuff off.
 
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