Bilge Pump in keel advise

[rusty12]

I have a 26 general marine and am having an issue with my Rule 1100 GPH automatic pump in my keel. When I am running and the little bit of water in my keel runs down to where the pump is it turns on from the water sloshing around then once I stop the boat the water in the 1 1/8 line drains out of the line back into the bilge. That is a good amount of water due to the fact it is so far to the through hull so it is a never ending cycle.

any help would be appreciated

Thanks

 

[traditions]

What I have done is to mount the float switch up higher than the pump.I take a piece of aluminium and bend it to make a shelf that is two or so inches higher than the pump,mount the pump on one side and the float on the higher side.Pump the bildge down with manual and if the boat doesnt leak the pump shouldnt cycleI use the Ultimate switch and they do the same thing if you have any amount of hose and a narrow bildge.You can put a check valve in the hose, which rule makes,but they dont work good in cold weather,cuasing the hose to freeze. Otherwise they are fine.

 

[Blitzen]

I did something similar to what Traditions explained but I use the Rule-mate pumps that have the built in float switch. I have my main pump mounted a little higher in the bilge for bulk water and then I added the largest(Gph) 3/4" discharge pump down on the bottom of the bilge for everyday drips and have a check valve in the line so the water doesn't drain back. This way my main pump is always ready if needed and the smaller pump is there to help out if necessary.

 

[clementine]

You can mount the main pump higher up like has been suggested and to keep the keel dry you can use a pump like a water puppy or similar and run a hose down to the bottom of the keel. Turn on the pump every now and then and keep the keel dry.

 

[benenglish76]

I'd recommend a check valve attached to your 1 1/8 hose, as close to the pump has you can get it within reason. If you cant secure a check valve,making a big loop in your hose before your thru-hull fitting will work too.

Google

 

[benenglish76]

Thats a link to google shopping by the way for check valves by the way

 

[F/V First Team]

The main problem with check valves (either spring-loaded or joker valves) is that the water once on the other side of the valve and the pump turns off, creates standing head pressure which the pump may not be able to overcome the next time it cycles on, so no fluid is removed.

Have you tried a sponge on a stick? It's a pain but if it is only a small bit of water adding this step to your trip end shut down and secure procedure might be the easiest solution.

Is the fluid coming from a leaking hatch? A new gasket may be just the ticket (I am looking into a silicone gasket for my hatches currently to solve a similar issue).

 

[plowin]

I have a 31' BHM that had a similiar problem. The problem was easily resolved with a check valve. Just remember to take it apart before winter so it does not freeze and split. Or run antifreeze through it. This is a quick and easy fix. Hardest part will be locating a check valve that is the right size,all stainless and nondeteriorating rubber. Just look around you will find them. Good luck!

 

[tunafishhkg]

I would only use check valves if its done BLITZEN's way. Check valves reduce flow and need to be maintained! I use the auto pump that cycle every few min but many people can not take the sound of it or on a mooring with no charging. Laws of physics here and always been a problem on downeaster's especially before packless shaft seals. Till they perfect a electronic switch, options are a high float switch where the volume coming back will not fill narrow keel, 2 pumps one higher than other with check on the lower pump, or a small vane pump for the lower pump that will get more water out. Also a delay switch can help as it keeps pump running after the float switch shuts off that might get enough water out to stop the cycling. It is important that you always have the loop on all outlets!!