Bonding

Raider Ronnie

Vice Admiral
Lite User
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Posts
3,225
Likes
2,131
Age
57
Location
Boston Ma.
Website
www.bostonharborcharters.com
Boat Make
33 Flowers.
Last edited:

F/V First Team

Admiral
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Posts
6,146
Likes
2,483
Location
Narnia
Website
www.otisenterprisesmarine.com
Boat Make
Northern Bay 36 - Modified
The oval zincs work pretty nicely for me. From there all you need is some tinned copper wire and some cable ends to hook up the various parts and pieces. Usually use #6 wire but you could also use #8 if you so desired to connect everything to the grounding system. Just make sure not to connect the various metal parts so that the current flows through them, always use the same point of contact.
 

Raider Ronnie

Vice Admiral
Lite User
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Posts
3,225
Likes
2,131
Age
57
Location
Boston Ma.
Website
www.bostonharborcharters.com
Boat Make
33 Flowers.

F/V First Team

Admiral
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Posts
6,146
Likes
2,483
Location
Narnia
Website
www.otisenterprisesmarine.com
Boat Make
Northern Bay 36 - Modified
Just the regular one?

They've worked great on everything from 20' to 42' out of the shop. I suppose you could double them up if you're really worried but shouldn't have to.

HMZ-ZN10.JPG
This handsome fellow right here
 

jerseysportfisher

Rear Admiral
Joined
Feb 13, 2012
Posts
1,181
Likes
149
Location
Communist part of NJ
Boat Make
Bertram 33SF
Travis,
I meant to include what size oval appropriate to my size boat.


zinc sizing goes by surface area of the metal you are trying to protect, theory seems to change on this alot, there seems to be a new school of though about NOT bonding all thru-hulls. I suggest you don't tie it into your DC/AC grounding system. Bonding system is its OWN circuit
 
Last edited:

MDI45

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Posts
3,648
Likes
1,101
Location
Freeport , new york
Boat Make
45MDI /28WB
Ronnie,The zinc plate and zinc that Travis showed is the best...just tie it in with copper strip or 6 gauge wire and you will be good to go ...most marine thru hulls have a grounding nut to attach it to...or i have seen stainless hose clamps used
 
Last edited:

samhop

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Posts
136
Likes
35
cheep tined #6 wire

its not green but the price is right .30 - .45 cant be beat for tinned.

Hookup Stranded

i got 50ft of orange for .30/ft last year (new old stock milspec)
 

samhop

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Posts
136
Likes
35
#8 not#6

had not looked for a while your right RR jest #8 there now.
 

captainlarry84

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Posts
1,295
Likes
239
Location
Freeport NY
Boat Make
KristenFormer Charter Captain
Bonding always wise.....

All good advice. A good bonding system starts at the transom zinc & ends all tied into a dyna plate. #6 tinned wire is your best bet. It is easy to work with and durable. Mount your transom plate on the stern as low in the water column as possible. Next run the wire from the dyna plate to a lug bolt on your rudder stuffing box. From the box make a jumper loop from that stud on the stuffing box to the rudder post. You can drill and tap the rudder post for the wire.
Using the rudder stuffing box as a junction point run a second wire is run to all of your thru hulls and transducters. I like the water hose clamps to attach the wire. Once all of the thru hulls are done end the #6 green wire at the dyna plate for absolute ground. I also ground my electronics to the dyna plate.
Once done get a continuity meter at test the system touching one end to the transom zinc and the other end to mall of your under water gear. It must tone.
Lastly run a jumper from the motor that should cover your gear, shaft & propeller. If the propeller and shaft do not tone. Then you will need a shaft brush to complete the system.
Lastly cap off the rudder with a round zinc plate & a second one on your shaft. When you drill your rudder for the zinc place the zinc in a part of the rudder that is at the same level of the center of your shaft. That zinc will also protect the wheel. With the zinc in that spot the water flow from the propeller will beat up the zinc pretty good, so I like a second rudder zinc up high for added long haul protection. Shaft zincs also rarely last a season. As the shaft spins the zinc gets a lot of cavational wear, but that is your only option.
Do not solder the lugs on. Crimp only and cover with shrike wrap. The correct color should be green. But if you get a deal on a different color then make a choice. The job is pretty easy with the decks up.
 

Raider Ronnie

Vice Admiral
Lite User
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Posts
3,225
Likes
2,131
Age
57
Location
Boston Ma.
Website
www.bostonharborcharters.com
Boat Make
33 Flowers.

captainlarry84

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Posts
1,295
Likes
239
Location
Freeport NY
Boat Make
KristenFormer Charter Captain
Dead center on your transom as low a possible, making sure that none of the plate hangs lower that the bottom edge of the transom.
 

jerseysportfisher

Rear Admiral
Joined
Feb 13, 2012
Posts
1,181
Likes
149
Location
Communist part of NJ
Boat Make
Bertram 33SF
Bonding not always WISE

you all are big boys and can make your own decisions for your own boats

First
Bonding IS NOT Grounding

Purpose, is to create an equal electrical potential to all UNDERWATER fittings.

Great for stray DC voltage produced from your boat (bare wire laying in bilge water)

Bad For stray DC voltage from a hot slip. What CAN happen here is junkyard joe your slip neighbor wirenuts up his new bilge pumps leaving the wirenuts floating in his wet bilge. Now we have stray current, electricity will take its own path, if it decides to go in the direction of your boat it will use your wired together thru hulls as path (remedial electricty 101= electricity will take the path of least resistance) wires have less resistance then saltwater. as it enters your thruhull on the starboard and goes out the thruhull on the port, the port thru hull will experience amplified galvanic corrosion, over what your zinc can sacrifice. Now the chap that cut all his bonding wires from his thru-hulls has no worries, because his starboard seacock is isolated with a rubber hose its connected to. There for electricity will not flow from the starboard to port thruhull.

Why I suggest NOT attaching the the boding system to the dynaplate.(yes i am aware Calder likes to profess that the dyna plate should connect all systems to one point)

We know when 2 different metals are submersed in saltwater create a battery. We know that we can measure low dc voltages on the bonding system. The DYNAplates purpose in life is to create a counterpoise for RF communications. Counterpoises are used when no true earth is available. By introducing the bonding system to the dynaplate, you introduce voltage, which creates noise on your RF comm.
 

captainlarry84

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Posts
1,295
Likes
239
Location
Freeport NY
Boat Make
KristenFormer Charter Captain
Is a shaft brush usually a good idea, or something used case by case?

Some need them and some do not so case by case. If you get tone on the meter from the transom plate to the wheel then you are good.
 

Raider Ronnie

Vice Admiral
Lite User
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Posts
3,225
Likes
2,131
Age
57
Location
Boston Ma.
Website
www.bostonharborcharters.com
Boat Make
33 Flowers.
Top Bottom