Cana-Core or Nidacore Edge Finishing

BillD

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Attached are some pictures I hijacked from Brian's (Powderpro) 38 WESMAC build.

This 38 is 100% Nidacore and some Cana-Core.

I've read here and on other forums that "finishing the edges or rounding" is a bit challenging to get this material like a radius edge.

Brian's edges look real good.

What's the technique for a smooth round edge on this stuff ?

Powderpro Nidacore I.jpg

Powderpro Nidacore 2.jpg
 

Powderpro

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where are the smooth edges you speak of? just looks like he filled the end of the nida in with hull n deck

Ya Bill, where are the "smooth edges" in those pictures :D. To get a "smooth round edge", I use what is called a 7" grinder with 36 or 50 grit discs. You have to be careful, because 36 grit will eat through material very efficiently. But with a little practice, patience, and a good eye, you can get a nice rounded edge and then simply glass the edge up, and you have your edge. Then grind, fair, sand, paint, and you are done. I've provided a few pics that show the rounded edges I was able to get from the grinder, I think they look pretty good. Man that 38 Wesmac is tough;).

DSCN8821.jpg

DSCN8979.JPG

DSCN8985.jpg

photo9.jpg
 

Powderpro

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So hull and deck...build up and sand.

I experimented a bit, and ended up finding that puttying or hull and decking the rounded edge was a waste of time and material 99% of the time. I just round the edge with the grinder, occasionally you will have to brake out a very sharp (new) razer blade to trim a little material that the grinder chewed up, and then I just glass over the rounded edge. On the interior, I usually just used 2 layer of 1.5 oz mat. On the exterior where I needed more strength, first layer was 1.5 oz, second layer was 1708, and third layer (the finish layer or top layer) was 1.5 oz mat.
 

petrel

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Every time you post pics of that, it makes me want to build a big walk-around Calvin, and I can't justify it, so please stop, LOL. No, seriously it's a beautiful boat; I can't wait to see the next one.
 

Powderpro

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Every time you post pics of that, it makes me want to build a big walk-around Calvin, and I can't justify it, so please stop, LOL. No, seriously it's a beautiful boat; I can't wait to see the next one.

The next one should be even better... I am going with a taller house, same walk-around design, and west coast style, forward sloping windows. I'll have pics of the new 40 Lowell this spring. It's going to be different, but really cool.
 
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John 40

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Bill, I put a bullnose on the step up in the house using nidacore. I filled with poly fair so the router had a smooth surface to ride on, then refilled ,sanded and put some matte over it. I'm sure there are better ways.
 

petrel

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The next one should be even better... I am going with a taller house, same walk-around design, and west coast style, front sloping windows. It is going to be COOL! I'll have pics of the new 40 Lowell this spring. It's going to be different, but really cool.

Sounds great, that's what I had in mind if business was ever good enough to build a do-all sort of boat. Just being a couple of steps above the deck is great. That's how it is in my DMR, just high enough and it doesn't beat you up as bad as a high house.
 

BillD

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Bill, I put a bullnose on the step up in the house using nidacore. I filled with poly fair so the router had a smooth surface to ride on, then refilled ,sanded and put some matte over it. I'm sure there are better ways.

John,

I remember you pointing that out to me when I was on your boat last May. The fit and finish on your boat look great.

Brian, thanks for the instructions and the extra pictures. The fit and finish look great on your boat too.

If I can get my finish work to look like both of yours I'll be satisfied.

Thanks,
 

oldshell55

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nida core door

I have been thinking of replacing glass/plywood sliding door with nida core but have been trying to think through the bottom edge which gets a lot of wear over time , my plywood door has stainless half round on the bottom riding in a channel of star board. any ideas on this riding edge on a nida core door, seems that screwing ss 1/2 round into hull/deck filled edge wouldn't last ??
 

plowin

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I dug out the core and put a couple stainless nuts into the H/D putty and then just threaded in the bolts, worked good.FWIW
 

oldshell55

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thanks, definitely want to do it, just brain storming , so as to do it once. also I really want to start working with core for obvious reasons . maybe a VE putty?
 

plowin

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System works real good. Just make sure to bed the nut completely into the hull and deck so it will not spin.
 

plowin

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If you can, set the nut into the hull and deck with the machine screw or bolt already threaded into the nut. Its a pain in the balls otherwise, the threads fill up with goop.
 

steveinak

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Instead of stainless why not a strip of UHMW bolted to the bottom of the door ?? Slides like ice on ice :D.
 

oldshell55

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If you can, set the nut into the hull and deck with the machine screw or bolt already threaded into the nut. Its a pain in the balls otherwise, the threads fill up with goop.

I figured that much, , and wax the screw threads so I can remove it without spinning the nut. what do you think, about an inch of H/D into the bottom of the door is good?
 
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