changing thru hulls

ripta13

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1996 31 BHM
Its my first time replacing thru hulls. I took out the old plastic thru hulls for the bilge and macerator pumps. They are just above the waterline. I got all the old silcone off and now ready to install these nice new brass one. Should I use 5200 or 4200? My goal is to set it and forget it and never have to crawl to these hoses again. But in the back of my head is the what if they need to come out down the road. My plan is to acetone the hole, 5200 the brass and hole, hand tighten then 24 hours later button it down. I was planning on 5200 since these are about 3 inches above the waterline and will take a beating. I was doing some research and some say 4200. What silicone should i use? Should I just tighten it up rite from the start or let it set up for 24 hours? any tips?
 

jwalka51

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26' Webber Cove lobster boat.
I used to use 5200, then they came out with 4200. Now I use that. It has worked fine for me both above and below the waterline. I just put it on, tighten them and then walk away. No re tightening. Haven't had any problems thus far. Good luck
 

captainlarry84

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KristenFormer Charter Captain
Is the hull cored? If so make sure you de-core around each thru hull. 5200 would be my choice.
 

ripta13

Lieutenant Commander
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1996 31 BHM
I saw a few different versions of 292. Is this the one you use first team? should I tighten it down all the way, rite away or let it set up first. thanks for your help!

42279033.jpg
 

F/V First Team

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Northern Bay 36 - Modified
Wind that puppy up in there. If you ever want it out, you're going to have to cut the thru-hull.

292 is the cats ass, doesn't get horribly messy like 5200 and doesn't take forever to set up. It beds, seals, spans, absorbs, sands, isolates, it's groovy stuff. And it's a pretty dandy adhesive too.
 
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