Coosa board

smitty

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Looking at coosa board for a a project. New wheel house. Question is does this stuff bend and how do you finish?
 

John 40

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I would use 3/4 divinycell or corecell, You can buy it so it contours to any shape and will save weight and money on materials.
 

John 40

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I used the H-80 for my panels. I used 1/8" hardbacker board to lay up panels. Home depot $8 a sheet. Not a professional but it worked well for me.
 

tomy

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did my whole cockpit deck with 3/4 in coosa,last winter project. think it came out nice. like it alot:p

you use it like plywood, not very bendable

look at stew at s.w. boatworks pics to get idea, also others have posted about using composit products.
 
Last edited:

John 40

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Problem? I thought this forum was to help people with various projects. Not everyone is a professional boat builder.
 

BillD

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Problem? I thought this forum was to help people with various projects. Not everyone is a professional boat builder.

Hmm

Not sure where that came from, but alright

Is it just me, or are people getting really tense around here?

Just you Travis ! ;)
Some of the "new" members haven't learned how to "read ya" yet !:D
 

El Mar

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F/V First Team

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Looking at coosa board for a a project. New wheel house. Question is does this stuff bend and how do you finish?


Coosa and Penske board does not lend itself well to bending, whereas it does so very little - the different densities and thicknesses of course change this also.

If one was so bold as to take a circular saw with a 1/8" tooth width blade to the backside of the material, kerfs could be introduced to the surface so that the material would have an area to either compress or expand - depending on which way you wanted the panel to curve.

Finishing the panel requires fiberglass to be laminated onto the face surfaces of the product. From there you have your choice of finishes, gelcoat, paint, awlgrip/alexseal, etc.
 

MDI45

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Coosa and Penske board does not lend itself well to bending, whereas it does so very little - the different densities and thicknesses of course change this also.

If one was so bold as to take a circular saw with a 1/8" tooth width blade to the backside of the material, kerfs could be introduced to the surface so that the material would have an area to either compress or expand - depending on which way you wanted the panel to curve.

Finishing the panel requires fiberglass to be laminated onto the face surfaces of the product. From there you have your choice of finishes, gelcoat, paint, awlgrip/alexseal, etc.
Now that was explained very well.....I think you did this once before..LOL
 

F/V First Team

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I do enjoy some circular saws

If the 28 volt won't do it, grab the Porter Cable

If the Porter Cable won't do it, grab the SawCat

If the SawCat won't do it, grab the Wormgear

If the Wormgear won't do it, leave it alone!

(go find a big hammer)


And if it isn't carbide tipped, it doesn't get equipped
 

Powderpro

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I do enjoy some circular saws

If the 28 volt won't do it, grab the Porter Cable

If the Porter Cable won't do it, grab the SawCat

If the SawCat won't do it, grab the Wormgear

If the Wormgear won't do it, leave it alone!

(go find a big hammer)


And if it isn't carbide tipped, it doesn't get equipped

I didn't know you were a poet too :). A man of many talents.
 

MouseTrap

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I love reading F/V First Team's helpful hints. I can't remember him once saying "just bring your project to my shop and I'll charge you to fix it". Usually his advice seems practical and straight forward.

I hate this time of year. Last winter there were days in each month that I could have gotten on the water. My next boat will have some sort of cabin heat and have a way to close the cabin.
 
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