Coosa/Penske Board

Downeaster

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I've never used the stuff but I'm wondering how it works under both tension and compression. Would this be a worthwhile replacement for core in the wash rails and the stern rail? Specifically, would it stand up to the strains from cleats and swivel rod holders or would backup plates still be called for?
 

CaptDave

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I am not a boat builder but think it would work fine, only thing is I would want backing plate on all cleats and rod holders no matter what to distribute pressure evenly across the cleat or holder.

Dave
 

F/V First Team

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Backing plate for sure, it's still a core. Even a solid glass piece I'd put a backing plate on.

I beat the snot out of some Coosa (15# density) when I was using it on a project, worked out pretty good. You can still destroy it but it did hold up fairly well in various tests (vise, hammer, twisting, even shot it with a pellet gun)
 

31jcptown

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covering boards

I just redid my covering boards. I did them in double 3/4 marine ply with 4 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat I used coosa in a few other places on my rig . I will be fighting fish out of the rod holder or have cleats on them i would do ply rather than coosa .

2.jpg
 

Downeaster

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I just redid my covering boards. I did them in double 3/4 marine ply with 4 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat I used coosa in a few other places on my rig . I will be fighting fish out of the rod holder or have cleats on them i would do ply rather than coosa.

Was it price, availability or something else that caused you to go with the marine plywood (though quality, void-free marine ply may not be much cheaper than Coosa)?
 

31jcptown

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marine ply

i had some left from another project its 90 bucks a sheet the coosa i used was $260 for 1/2 inch
 

bligh

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Coosa board is for ever. It will never rot,wont crush. It is used on transoms to

replace rooted ply wood.. They through bolt out boards with coosa as a core. It is impregnated with fiberglass in to the dense foam during construction. What is not to like. besides cutting it and handling it with all the fiberglass fibers.
 

Downeaster

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replace rooted ply wood.. They through bolt out boards with coosa as a core. It is impregnated with fiberglass in to the dense foam during construction. What is not to like. besides cutting it and handling it with all the fiberglass fibers.

No risk of the polyester resin - Coosa bond delaminating, in your opinion? Does the Coosa absorb resin and need to be wetted out first?
 

bligh

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I have probably gone through about 30 or 40 4x8 sheets

No risk of the polyester resin - Coosa bond delaminating, in your opinion? Does the Coosa absorb resin and need to be wetted out first?

I feel it is way superior to any wood product in almost every respect except holding screws as good. No you do not have to hot coat it per say. It does not soak in to the wood and leave the glass dry. It does not need to be pre wetted out then when still tacky lay up is done?? That is a wood problem. or need. I do wet out the coosa and then lay the wet biaxial glass onto it. Then I try to remove or move excess resin with a squeegee. The facts are that because of the density. It can absorb No more then 5% of its weight. That is a fact. So once the resin gets onto the surface and into what ever pores. There would be no room for any water even if it did get to it. The supplier I bought from was repairing a lot of commercial down east boats with both penske and coosa board. He showed me pictures of a wesmar he did the deck with. He told me that wesmar was very impressed with his process. Myself. I prefer Vinylester resin over polyester resin. It is water proof and has much better secondary bonding. I also prefer it over epoxy because of cost$$ and viscosity. Epoxy will sometimes not penetrate most glasses because of binders in it.
 

jawz

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replace rooted ply wood.. They through bolt out boards with coosa as a core. It is impregnated with fiberglass in to the dense foam during construction. What is not to like. besides cutting it and handling it with all the fiberglass fibers.



gotta agree with this

penske board,is a great product - i've used it on quite a few decks,gunnel boards and consoles

wear a mask,saftey glasses and a paint suit when cutting it - the fibers are a pain in the butt !
 

bligh

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All Good

gotta agree with this

penske board,is a great product - i've used it on quite a few decks,gunnel boards and consoles

wear a mask,saftey glasses and a paint suit when cutting it - the fibers are a pain in the butt !

Wow. I tried to laminate 4 pieces into a greenstick bird and thought it to tough, heavy and dense to even use>? So much for that Idea? It was also not easily shapable o the edges? Too much filler needed? Bad Idea. I have them. Jim You can still have that bracket mold if you want?
 

jerseysportfisher

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speaking of composite boards, you guys ever use G-10 ? whats your opinion on it ?


Bly, for the bird, if your hard set on using composites, why not shape a block of closed cell into your preffered shape and glass over it ? minicell makes big blocks and easy to shape
 
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