Corrosion prevention

liden

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Anyone have a general idea as to the frequency of using a raw water system flushing product to minimize buildup inside a heat exchanger?

Pound of prevention vs. pound of cure with a new exchanger........

Also wondering about the freshwater side and antifreeze replacement.

Thanks
 

tunafishhkg

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I do not use stuff like salt away but I do keep fresh water in my system after any trip or engine startup. If I am going out next day I will not flush but other than that, its fresh water during down time!! One of the things on my "not an option" maint list.
 

captainlarry84

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yES

Rydlyme, works like magic. No disassembly needed. I did my Yanmar it was amazing. The days of pulling units apart is over. Worked excellent on the raw water side. They also make a product for the sweet water side. The key on the fresh water side is to change your anti freeze every other year. I prefer pre-mixed. If you go old school with a water mix make sure it is distilled water only.

Rydlyme Biodegradable Descaler
 

Coastal

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Do you use rydlyme by just sending it through the system while the boat is in the water? Pour it in the sea strainer?
 

BillD

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Do you use rydlyme by just sending it through the system while the boat is in the water? Pour it in the sea strainer?

Coastal,

LOTS posted over on boatdiesel forum on "Rydlyming" the raw water side.
You can also use a mild solution of HCL simple pool acid.

Either way you have to "circulate the acid" through the system using a bucket and pump for a few hours.

FWIW,

Bill D
 

Pitou

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Do you use rydlyme by just sending it through the system while the boat is in the water? Pour it in the sea strainer?

I use Rydlyme with great results. Easily done while in the water. They say not to run it through your saltwater pump as it will degrade the impeller. Great tech support by phone from them too.

I constructed 2 fittings. One end has a male garden hose fitting and the other a 1 1/2' nipple. My routine on my 6BTA is to create a loop starting after the seawater pump by inserting the nipple of one fitting into the hose feeding the aftercooler and disconnecting the outflow hose of my heat exchanger to the exhaust elbow and inserting a fitting there. Connect a washing machine hose to each fitting with one going to a submersible sump pump placed in a 5 gallon pail of Rydlyme/fresh water 50/50 solution and the other end / return placed in the bucket to create a recirculating loop. If you have a dripless shaft seal be sure to disconnect and plug the hose that feeds your shaft. Mine comes off my gear cooler. Be sure to remove your anodes from their plugs or they will disintegrate.

I run the pump from heat exchanger side through the loop coming out the bottom of the aftercooler for an hour and a half and then reverse flow for another hour. This is then followed up by running fresh water through the loop from the aftercooler side nipple and out the exhaust by reconnecting the heat exchanger to the exhaust elbow. Re-install anodes, reconnect dripless shaft seal hose and good to go.I still believe in taking end caps off of the heat exchanger, aftercooler and gear cooler every 4 years is a good practice along with pressure testing the bundle.

On the freshwater side I'm with Larry every other year with pre-mix, which is the recommendation of Cummins as well.

PM is what it's all about! ;)

Here's a shot of my set-up from a Rydlyme flush while in the water last September.

Rydlyme Sept 11 2012.jpg
 

captainlarry84

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Excellent Post

This covers it all. Excellently explained
I use Rydlyme with great results. Easily done while in the water. They say not to run it through your saltwater pump as it will degrade the impeller. Great tech support by phone from them too.

I constructed 2 fittings. One end has a male garden hose fitting and the other a 1 1/2' nipple. My routine on my 6BTA is to create a loop starting after the seawater pump by inserting the nipple of one fitting into the hose feeding the aftercooler and disconnecting the outflow hose of my heat exchanger to the exhaust elbow and inserting a fitting there. Connect a washing machine hose to each fitting with one going to a submersible sump pump placed in a 5 gallon pail of Rydlyme/fresh water 50/50 solution and the other end / return placed in the bucket to create a recirculating loop. If you have a dripless shaft seal be sure to disconnect and plug the hose that feeds your shaft. Mine comes off my gear cooler. Be sure to remove your anodes from their plugs or they will disintegrate.

I run the pump from heat exchanger side through the loop coming out the bottom of the aftercooler for an hour and a half and then reverse flow for another hour. This is then followed up by running fresh water through the loop from the aftercooler side nipple and out the exhaust by reconnecting the heat exchanger to the exhaust elbow. Re-install anodes, reconnect dripless shaft seal hose and good to go.I still believe in taking end caps off of the heat exchanger, aftercooler and gear cooler every 4 years is a good practice along with pressure testing the bundle.

On the freshwater side I'm with Larry every other year with pre-mix, which is the recommendation of Cummins as well.

PM is what it's all about! ;)

Here's a shot of my set-up from a Rydlyme flush while in the water last September.
 

Capt Dave

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Do any of you know how many gallons of Rydlyme are required to flush a Yanmar 6LY engine?
 

captainlarry84

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Dave, If I remember correctly. It was one gallon of Rydlyme to four gallons of water. You need 5 gallons of solution total. I would check my memory on the 1:5 mix.
 

jerseysportfisher

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Coastal,

LOTS posted over on boatdiesel forum on "Rydlyming" the raw water side.
You can also use a mild solution of HCL simple pool acid.

Either way you have to "circulate the acid" through the system using a bucket and pump for a few hours.

FWIW,

Bill D


Bill I presume your suggesting muratic acid. My only suggestion is if someone decides to uses, educate yourself about it, and i don;t mean go talk to the guy on the dock. And be aware what metals are in you exchanger. Muratic acid can indeed cause more harm then good if not payed attention to, it dissolves various metals quick including certain solders. I prefer to suggest products like ridlyme and others designed for the task, because not all end users are the same!!!
 

Pitou

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Do any of you know how many gallons of Rydlyme are required to flush a Yanmar 6LY engine?
Not sure sure how many gallons you would need, but I chose to go 50-50 and used 2 gallons of Rydlyme on my 5.9 6BTA Cummins and had ample left in my sump bucket fully covering the pump and then some. You might get away with 2 gallons, but might need 3. you could always buy 3 and start with 2 and add to the sump if needed. I bought 3 and used the extra gallon to circulate the gen-set and then my AC system.

Mack Boring actually endorses Rydlyme. As I recall, Rydlyme Marine has capacity charts through customer service for Yanmar engines. I'd call their them at 800-451-6291 / I found them very helpful. web link: RYDLYME Marine: The Ultimate Biodegradable Marine Descaler! | RydLyme Marine

Rydlyme's website recommends a mix of no less than 75% water to 25% Rydlyme / (3 to 1)up to 50-50 mix. I chose to go 50-50.

Here's a shot of my engine fittings:

Rydlyme fittings.jpg
 

captainlarry84

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I would call Mac Boring for the proper mixture. I still am in amazement about how it worked. The return bucket of solution turned from light amber to army green after 5 hours of circulating through the system.
You can tell when your due or overdue my running WOT. If the temperature creeps up slowly it is time.
I am a firm believer that every trip on the way out & on the way back you run the boat @ WOT as you study your gauges carefully. A Yanmar 6 LY should not move a fraction at WOT.
 
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