Cummins 6BTA 300HP oil consumption

landonyacobucci

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Hey guys, my engine is losing oil and my only assumption is that its getting burned. There is a minor sheen when I am at idle in the slip and very minor sheen when the bilge pumps out(not enough to think there is a leak out the engine.) Small puff of smoke on cold start, there is a good amount of soot build up on the transom also it seems there is soot bulid up in my engine bay(it may be getting sucked in through my deck vents?). The engine burned about 8 quarts in 200Hrs, so a quart every 25 hrs. I will double check after this oil change but that's what I am noticing.

Any thoughts?
Engine has 1200hrs on it
Here's the engine Data Plate engine.jpg
 

landonyacobucci

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Yea I read that article. Just recently purchased the boat and the fluids were changed right before the purchase. So this go around ill put 13 quarts to start and monitor it.
 

Genius

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Do run her hard or idle at the dock? I think I know the answer.
 

captjohn

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Does the engine have an oil cooler? Might want to have it pressure tested.
 

landonyacobucci

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I am not familiar with this engine just yet... I do not know those answers.

Don’t mind the red circle.... BD923B3D-1A85-47E1-BD20-99B2BF7B0C78.jpeg
 

Benny

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You can start the engine and loosen the oil cap so that it’s just sitting on top of the cover. If it seems to be bouncing around on top of the cover or you feel puffs of air coming out of the hole you may have bigger problems.

Do you have some sort of oil breather on the front of the timing cover, port side under the expansion tank?
 

Gurryman

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Does the engine have an oil cooler? Might want to have it pressure tested.
The BTA oil cooler is jacket water cooled. not likely the culprit. I would check that the turbo is not weeping oil into the intake. Has he checked the aftercooler to see if there is excessive oil fouling?
 

landonyacobucci

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Hm ok I thought it was raw water / coolant on the aftercooler... there are two heat exchangers correct? Port side is the pic I sent(first thing raw water sees after the raw water pump) then the longer skinnier one on the starboard side (this one I have not messed with yet)
 

ARC

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this Is not typical of a 1200 hour Cummins. First are you sure of the Hobbs time? Do you know the boat history?
here are a few things to do , to get more information to us.

clean everything. Bilge, stern, engine,
get your oil lever set properly By draining old oil , change filter put in the exact amount Spec by Cummins. Don’t worry about the dip stick [ but make note of the level on it } if it calls for 13 QT. That means 13 in the pan so allow for filling the filter . This may start an argument but use a good Dino oil 15/40 or better. T-4 maybe. You will not hurt anything if you are a QT low. You can adjust later. if you can , pull the IC core and clean the air side real good. Remove turbo hoses and wipe clean both sides.

when complete get the boys and do a deep run at 80% load . get at least 8 hours on it with as little slow speed as possible.
then report back . Look at level, turbo hoses, air side IC. Exhaust, stern, blow hose, filler cap.
 

landonyacobucci

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this Is not typical of a 1200 hour Cummins. First are you sure of the Hobbs time? Do you know the boat history?
here are a few things to do , to get more information to us.

clean everything. Bilge, stern, engine,
get your oil lever set properly By draining old oil , change filter put in the exact amount Spec by Cummins. Don’t worry about the dip stick [ but make note of the level on it } if it calls for 13 QT. That means 13 in the pan so allow for filling the filter . This may start an argument but use a good Dino oil 15/40 or better. T-4 maybe. You will not hurt anything if you are a QT low. You can adjust later. if you can , pull the IC core and clean the air side real good. Remove turbo hoses and wipe clean both sides.

when complete get the boys and do a deep run at 80% load . get at least 8 hours on it with as little slow speed as possible.
then report back . Look at level, turbo hoses, air side IC. Exhaust, stern, blow hose, filler cap.
Thanks for input that will all be done on Wednesday and I’ll report back thanks for all the feedback!
 

Genius

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Good advice from ARC. I've seen one cummins that was not run hard and only at idle putting about, it burnt oil. Glazed cylinder walls was my suspicion, need to seat the rings. My cummins has unknown hours (suspect 15-18k, doesn't burn any oil to speak of, a quart in 250hrs maybe).
 

landonyacobucci

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Update:

Got a new airfilter old vs new was night and day..... while I had that off checked the hose coming out of the turbo to the aftercooler and this is what I found. oil intake.jpg oil intake2.jpg
Not a whole lot of oil but there was some. I did a full oil change and just put in 13 quarts plus filled the oil filter. I did end up find a small oil leak, but it was on the oil return from the turbo... it wasn't loose but it wasn't tight by an means... so I tightened her up and we will see.

During all the maintenance I noticed the freeze plug on the front of the engine was leaking worse than before... it didn't look like it would last the season so I dove into that.... good thing I did because the coolant looked like this. freeze plug.jpg bad cooant.jpg

drained the "coolant" flushed it really good and replaced the coolant pump, thermostat and tensioner. Then filled her back up with 6 Gallons of coolant plus some for the overflow new stuff.jpg

This last picture is it all put back together, painted and running.... it was nice to start her without her squeaking!

as far as oil comsumption I will know in the next coming weeks/months and will post back with an update.

Thanks for all the input
 

ARC

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you’re A/C is probably a mess , so go after that . Then determine if it’s blow by or turbo seal.
 
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