Deck Camber and Pitch.. stringers or bulkheads?

Bill

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Not there yet but in my planning I am trying to figure out if I should just replace the 2x4 deck stringer system I have or just use bulkheads.. am I correct by saying that if you use the 2x4 stringer system there is no way to add camber/ crown?..Im sure weve talked about it a few times.. pic are appreicated..thanks in advance
 

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It's very easy to add crown, you can relief cut the bottom side of your crossties or just use some jacking action and fasten them in place.

But you aren't very wide, why not just span?
 

Bill

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thanks.. disregard that pic. Im not going that route, im going across the hull.
 
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mold beam

Hey Bill. I would be happy to show you how to create a proper camber mold for your deck. There are 2 methods. It is easy to do once you have seen it done. Bob
 

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camber

if Bill doesn't want to know show us
bob
 

Bill

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Hey Bill. I would be happy to show you how to create a proper camber mold for your deck. There are 2 methods. It is easy to do once you have seen it done. Bob

Thanks Bob, do you have any pics? I saw one made from nida core the other day . I was thinking just replacing everything that is there. Which would mean no camber.. I am looking through the pics on here..

What do you guys think ? Needed or no?

if Bill doesn't want to know show us
bob

Oh no I want to see. I'm looking at how to frame the deck in every way.. Just exploring options between just going with bulkheads or deck stringers.. Camber or no camber.. Etc can you get 3/4 or 1" plywood to bend like that?
 

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You sure can, but you know what you can bend even easier? Two layers of thinner plywood with a layer of glass between them. On a boat the size of yours you could do it with quarter inch, just be sure to stagger your joints and seams, lay down your first layer, wet out the glass and screw the top layer right down, let it set, remove the screws and put your top layer of glass on. Done and bullet proof.
 

captainlarry84

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You sure can, but you know what you can bend even easier? Two layers of thinner plywood with a layer of glass between them. On a boat the size of yours you could do it with quarter inch, just be sure to stagger your joints and seams, lay down your first layer, wet out the glass and screw the top layer right down, let it set, remove the screws and put your top layer of glass on. Done and bullet proof.
I like this method. That is the same way the bend sheet rock in homes to go around radius walls. I bet it is even stronger that one layer.
 

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Doesn't bother my stuff, I have a nice angle to the deck and a nice amount of crown. You'd be surprised how "flat" two inches of crown can be on a deck, doubt you'd encounter any issues. And if you ever did, just put some pads on the trouble item, those points will make contact and span the gap nicely.
 

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Tolate a straight ramp will still not work properly it will pool up at the transom. You want to shed the water to the sides of the deck then aft ( think gutters on a house) or else you will still wind up with some water standing on deck. Also clearing ports if you have them will handle much of the volume so the scuppers just drain the last bit out of the corners. Instead of winding up with puddles which really suck because they become dirt magnets. Along with pieces of bait, funk, slime, algae and all forms of nasty stinky stuff.

Im sure Travis can explain it with more clarity as he is a true professional and I just like dry feet ;)
 

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Let me know if you need any clarification

2, 1/2" Nida-Core bulkheads, one behind the engine and one in front of the lazarette, both capped with 4" solid fiberglass for bonding the deck panels with your favorite adhesive.

2 longitudinal fiberglass stringers or 1/2" Nida-core bulkheads (also capped and better) from the steering bulkhead to the stern.

1.25" Nida-core deck panels will make the spans needed. A properly pitched deck and a scupper trough at the stern (optional) would preclude the need for a camber.

Materials: 1/2" and 1.25" Nida-core (polypropylene honeycomb core, with film barrier, non-scored); one could also contact Plascore, Zeeland, Michigan for a price quote for the same material.

Lamination both sides (bulkheads and decks): 1708 with 3/4oz mat finish; both taped in with two layers of 1708/DBM (4" and 3") with a 3/4oz mat finish (6").

Strong, durable, light weight, no rot, and proven in both hand laminate and vacuum bag construction for bulkheads, decks, and super structure.

Why I love this site thank you.
 

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Two things:

1) its a pain in the rear to do all that cutting

2) the angle of the dangle changes due to the width of the boat changing, easier the other way and keeps it nice and smooth
 

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Bill

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Just asking- I copied this pic from your old post showing what was there before the sawzall came to visit. Have you cut this flange off yet or is it still there? Cant remember.

Does a boat really need camber if the whole deck pitches aft- assuming it does? Have owned a number of odd craft with and without it. Seems like it would just make things rock while underway which may not be desirable if you are going to have odd shaped items on deck like a stack of pots or a plastic 55 gal drum.

Wow.. The hull of my boat is covered up and I haven't looked at the stringers and I had it In my mind that my stringers were on the 4" side . Guess I've been inhaling fumes.. I left the flange and my plan was to keep what is there and just copy it but I wanted to get the run down of how many boats percentage wise have camber and how big a deal it is..
 
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