Deck non skid

Raider Ronnie

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33 Flowers.

captainlarry84

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KristenFormer Charter Captain
My method

Aerosil works the best. Unlike play sand the aerosil absorbs the color of the gelcote. In doing so, no matter how hard you scrub or things drag it always stays in the color. The play sand wears through and you get those read-out marks and dark colored specks.

Looking at your deck. I would re coat the entire surface. Here is my method:

1- You will need two gallons of gelcote. One waxed the other no wax. You will use it all on what appears to be about a 10 X 10 cockpit sole.
2. Sand it real good & wash it with acetone.
3. Once done start with the no waxed gelcote and a good low nap roller.
4. Mix the gelcote one quart at a time. You should have an assistant to mix for you.
5. As you finish the 1st quart keep going with the second then the third until the entire deck is covered once.
6. Each fresh quart requires a fresh roller and mixing container.
7. Once done roll it a second time same way. The deck will be tackie which is good. So have plenty of throw away cotton white socks.
8. Once the second coat is down you should see no read out and the color should look consistent. You want the wax coat to go on nicely as it will be only a one coat shot.
9. Mix the Aerosil into the waxed gelcote a little at a time. Make sure you are well covered up as the aerosol goes air borne pretty easy. Keep mixing in the aersoil with no harder until you get the nice pasty consistency you need. Next with a full nap roller roll a small test section with no harder to make sure you have the non skid look you want.
10. Once you do, then start rolling one quart and a time until covered.
11. What is also key is that once you start rolling do not stop until all three coats are down. You will get the best adhesion putting the coats down quickly on the tackie non wax primer coats.


Once done in this manner with three coats you will be good for many years. On my 84 JC this is only my third re roll. The job in the photo is already on year # 3. Sliding coolers & drop sinkers are no match for the durability of this finish.

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MDI45

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Larry's method is correct but i try not to use a new roller cover per quart...i would need two cases of rollers..lol

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starrfish

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be sure to also stir the gelcoat with the non skid in it when u can, otherwise it will settle in the pot. lastly, use rollers made for chemicals/ resin etc...this will prevent the roller from coming apart during your project..
 

WC1966

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be sure to also stir the gelcoat with the non skid in it when u can, otherwise it will settle in the pot. lastly, use rollers made for chemicals/ resin etc...this will prevent the roller from coming apart during your project..
I used a paddle attachment with a power drill to mix the sand into the complete gallon, prior to pouring the 1st quart to add the catalyst. power mixed the remainder, before pouring each of the next batches. I used the cheep roller covers and the hotdog style handle from HD. Was able to do a gallon with 1 cover. Was able to stand in the hatches, and did not have any hatch rings to deal with.
 

captainlarry84

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KristenFormer Charter Captain
decks

MD145….LOL yes the 1 quart formula for a vessel with a cockpit like that is not the way to go. The 1 quart mixing formula is for the 10 X 10s. In your case most likely almost one gallon per set with a little less hardner.
The key to the job is good prep work & the no waxed non skid coats first. They must look perfect before you roll the waxed gelcote with Aerosil non-skid. Nothing finishs these boat off nicer that a nice clean cockpit solo.
 

petrel

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Most guys down here use Awlgrip for decks and either mix in the Awlgrip particulate (can't recall the name) for a one shot painting process or use sand in a two step operation. I did mine with sand, which is a more aggressive deck but if done right will look good and last. Roll the paint on and have someone follow along with sand in a container w/ holes in the top like a big salt shaker and shake the sand onto the wet paint. Revisit it the next day with a shop vac and suck up all the loose sand. Then roll another coat of awlgrip and your done. I actually use thinned epoxy paint (toluene is good to cut it w/) but it doesn't hold up to the sun so it gets dull after several months, and if you use the white epoxy paint it will turn yellowish (I used gray and it's fine f/ what we do and less glare after the shine goes away.) Anyway it's another option and relatively simple for two people to do. Also if you do the sand thing and you use painters tape around your edges and hatches and such you will have a much nicer result than if you don't. The little slick borders make for an attractive pattern. Although Awl Grip is an expensive product, a little goes a long way.
 

F/V First Team

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On my own deck I just have gelcoat, laid down nice and neat in one shot, no non-skid needed. There can be water and herring oil on it and it isn't slippery at all. Sure the couch can slide aft when the throttle is slammed forward, but that's because of the feet they use on them so that house hold floors don't get torn up while moving furniture. Boots, bare feet and everything in between have been aboard with no real slipping and sliding (ice doesn't count in the winter time) however bare feet on the metal hatches in mid August are a bummer. Deck gets slammed and banged up every season, concrete runner traps and anchors tossed about, doesn't do much damage really. Washrails and trunk top are covered with non-skid - but not with any of the methods mentioned here so far (going to keep that one as a trade secret, sorry guys) and the only thing that has damaged the non-skid in 12 seasons is one metal shovel that was driven down onto the washrail. Non-skid areas are comprised of 4 different levels. There's the easy to wash section on the hauling side, there's the "holy crap it's rough out" area when you need to go around the side of the cabin in weather you'd rather not be in, the regular non-skid which is good for general use and then there's the rest of it that I've called "ass-compliant", a nice soft texture that girls in thin bikinis don't mind sitting on and sliding their soft skin against. All 4 styles can be done at the same time, same mix, same roller. Sometimes I think you guys are trying too hard and thinking into things too much. My 2¢.
 

Tunascapes

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Most guys down here use Awlgrip for decks and either mix in the Awlgrip particulate (can't recall the name) for a one shot painting process or use sand in a two step operation. I did mine with sand, which is a more aggressive deck but if done right will look good and last. Roll the paint on and have someone follow along with sand in a container w/ holes in the top like a big salt shaker and shake the sand onto the wet paint. Revisit it the next day with a shop vac and suck up all the loose sand. Then roll another coat of awlgrip and your done. I actually use thinned epoxy paint (toluene is good to cut it w/) but it doesn't hold up to the sun so it gets dull after several months, and if you use the white epoxy paint it will turn yellowish (I used gray and it's fine f/ what we do and less glare after the shine goes away.) Anyway it's another option and relatively simple for two people to do. Also if you do the sand thing and you use painters tape around your edges and hatches and such you will have a much nicer result than if you don't. The little slick borders make for an attractive pattern. Although Awl Grip is an expensive product, a little goes a long way.
This is how I have been doing the non skid on my project. I take the can of additive with a few 1/8 inch holes and shake it into the wet paint. I have then been rolling back over it all while still wet. This helps drive the sand into the paint and actually helps to make it all very evenly dispersed. The gunnels have been holding up great getting in and out a million times.
 

tunaorlater

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Hey Mike, would the alwgrip hold up on a commercial boat..with things dragged and dropped and stuff like that...because i will be looking for something down the road other then gelcoat
It holds up well with sinkers, totes and normal wear and tear. Not sure it it would be good with heavy abuse or not. One thing I find is the paint doesn't chip off like the gel coat did for me. But that's me.

When I do the deck I add 1oz course 1 oz fine nonskid to a quart of paint. Mix it and apply with a foam roller. It comes out pretty even and there is no chance at missing spots. Then I roll a coat of just paint over that. I have done about a dozen boats this way with good results. Normally it lasts me 5 seasons but i am a rec guy. One thing that is very important is to add flattining agent to the paint or it is way to shinny.
 

reelrampage35

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floor

Not sure if your interested in replacing the decks but this site might help you. Great White Boat Co they have 4x8 sheets of fiberglass with no skid and diamond plate molded into them.
 

unclefish

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Have you ever scrubbed a diamond textured deck after a good bloody fishing trip.I have and your arms are ready to fall off. And yes awl grip is expensive but look at the hours saved from easy cleaning.
 

RKrough

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I was a Merton's on Friday and asked Joe the same question, he hooked me up with gray Gelcoat and Cabosil. He said to mix in the Cabosil till the gelcoat is almost a paste. Add hardener and roll on with a medium nap roller. The sample he showed me looked really good with plenty of texture for non slip footing with out the abrasive feel of sand.
 
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