Well, if that was the case, I'd replace the decks with 3/4" Tricel.
Bring the stringer systems up full height and add flanges to both sides so that you have roughly 11" of landing surface on both stringers. Chances are that there will be less than 4' of span between the outboard section of the main stringers and the side of the hull, which should have a flange on it as well, therefore there should be no need for cross framing in this situation since the main cabin will be separate from the work platform and the winterback and other built in pieces will generate the support needed. The decking material can be laminated beforehand, and rightly so should be. After a generous hot coating, put a 1.5oz mat on the underside followed by a 17-08 structure with the mat side down. Once cured, flip the panel over and apply another generous hot coat and cover with 1.5 oz mat, just to stabilize this side so that it can be worked on without damaging the face of the panel.
Trim the panels and set in place, starting from the hull and working into the center, this way you can keep your cuts straight for the most part aside from the curvature of the hull and you can maximize the "scrap" that will be generated for another use. Once the pieces are in place, bed them down with an adhesive, much like Sikaflex 292 and fasten them in place just as you would any decking - I've found that #8 flat head square drive self tapping screws work very well for this, poke them in so that the head goes through the top layer and is just below the surface without completely tearing through the laminate - much like one would do with dry wall. Putty the seams with hull and deck as well as any screw holes that went sub prime (hey, it happens, no judgement) and lay out the final laminate, say 1.5oz mat, 2 layers 1708 - edges staggered from the mat as well as the consecutive layers of structure - and finish with 1.5oz mat with feathered edges overlapping 1-2", in full length pieces. Position all layers and roll them up against the furthest section you will be working. Roll them towards you for roughly 18-24", saturate your work surface and begin rolling the material down working the resin through the fibers, once saturated roll the entire mass of material back onto the spot you just laminated and begin working your way to your exit, rolling on resin then rolling down the laminates one at a time. By the end of the project you should have a deck that can take anything you throw at it and provide a little bit of bounce to save your knees and backs. That's why the ride on a wooden boat is so different than that on a fiberglass one - the bounce, just enough to soften the blows from the waves and not so much so that you go flying off like when the fat neighbor's kid came over to use your trampoline...
At the end of the day it's all about comfort, no matter how many fish you spilled on deck, traps you hauled or harbors that you visited.
