First team ? for you

jerseysportfisher

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Bertram 33SF
You seem to have pretty innovative ideas from experience. I got a 33 bert, yes its a camper. Its a shoebox joint which holds the cap on, thru bolted with 1/4-20's through the aluminum rub rail. Alot of the bolts i can't get to, i want to seal it as best as possible with out removing the whole rail. I was thinking a quick and dirty approach , plasti dip slathered from the inside over the joint and 1/4-20's..... what are your thoughts ?
 

BillD

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Portsmouth NH.. Piscataqua and Merrimack Rivers
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27 H&H with Cummins QSB 5.9 480 power
You seem to have pretty innovative ideas from experience. I got a 33 bert, yes its a camper. Its a shoebox joint which holds the cap on, thru bolted with 1/4-20's through the aluminum rub rail. Alot of the bolts i can't get to, i want to seal it as best as possible with out removing the whole rail. I was thinking a quick and dirty approach , plasti dip slathered from the inside over the joint and 1/4-20's..... what are your thoughts ?

Curious?

Is the seam leaking??

Lots of 33 and 28s out there with the same seam.

Not too many reports about 70s/80s Bertrams leaking.

I owned a 77 28 Bertram for 17 years, no issues with the seam.

Curious, Bill D
 

jerseysportfisher

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Communist part of NJ
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Bertram 33SF
Curious?

Is the seam leaking??

Lots of 33 and 28s out there with the same seam.

Not too many reports about 70s/80s Bertrams leaking.

I owned a 77 28 Bertram for 17 years, no issues with the seam.

Curious, Bill D


lots of guys also dont remove the main interior panel to glass in extra bulk head supports either ;) , thats how i found it
 

Downeaster

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Jonesport USA
You seem to have pretty innovative ideas from experience. I got a 33 bert, yes its a camper. Its a shoebox joint which holds the cap on, thru bolted with 1/4-20's through the aluminum rub rail. Alot of the bolts i can't get to, i want to seal it as best as possible with out removing the whole rail. I was thinking a quick and dirty approach , plasti dip slathered from the inside over the joint and 1/4-20's..... what are your thoughts ?

Maybe another (ex) builder's advice will help. Is it leaking because that section took a shunt sometime in its life? Had the builder used an appropriate sealant (3M's 5200, for instance), that and the 1/4-20s likely would've been a permanent thing.

There really isn't a band aid that'll fix this. If it is leaking because of a local impact, you could get away with pulling the rub rail a foot or some past the problem area, reef out the old sealant, and properly seal that area. If, however, it is the factory sealant that's letting go due to age, you probably have a significant project ahead.

The repair is all the more difficult due to this type of joint. As the deck is lowered alongside the hull, there is a tendency for the sealant to be displaced. There actually is a lot to be said for the strength and reliable seal that the simple flanged hull with the deck resting on it provides.

Maybe I'm too old school and there really is some shake & bake product out there that'll solve this for you but I'm doubtful about a quick and dirty fixes for something like this.

BTW, Travis isn't the only builder here and perhaps someone else will weigh in on this while he changes the water in his pots.
 

F/V First Team

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Northern Bay 36 - Modified
Ok I've read this a couple of times today, haven't really had a chance to respond to it or anything yet though, even after the races there are still things to be done relating to them. Just to seal everything over from the inside I suppose you could use your plasti-dip stuff, seems like a pain to use that dinky little brush on the cap. Why not use like a high quality undercoating from an automotive shop that comes in a spray can to get up into those hard to reach spots, or even some product like hercliner (or whatever) that they use for truck beds. Roll it on (in your choice of a few colors) and be done.
 

jerseysportfisher

Rear Admiral
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Feb 13, 2012
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Communist part of NJ
Boat Make
Bertram 33SF
Ok I've read this a couple of times today, haven't really had a chance to respond to it or anything yet though, even after the races there are still things to be done relating to them. Just to seal everything over from the inside I suppose you could use your plasti-dip stuff, seems like a pain to use that dinky little brush on the cap. Why not use like a high quality undercoating from an automotive shop that comes in a spray can to get up into those hard to reach spots, or even some product like hercliner (or whatever) that they use for truck beds. Roll it on (in your choice of a few colors) and be done.

Travis, i suppose that would work as well, btw the plasti-dip does come in a spray, being i cannot get a roller in there. I liked it be cause it held a good bond, significantly thinner then rhino-liner, which i presume will allow it to get it to the nooks and crannies better. and can be built up with coats. Remains flexible "through out the lifespan". I was also thinking of urethane closed cell foam as well, what do you think about that ?

Downeaster, yes i understand the right way to go about it is re-bed the rail. I'm not cutting the boat apart to get a rail off, honestly its just not that important to me. If it leaks it will leak. If by using my band aide solves it or reduces the leak , then great. I got more shit on this tub to worry about then a leaky rub rail. I figured while i have access to this part why not try.


Jim
 

F/V First Team

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Northern Bay 36 - Modified
Are you talking about the little cans of spray foam for like around window casings and cracks in basement walls? Or the two part A/B foam that you mix and pour? The A/B foam doesn't "absorb" water but it does trap it inside, but I think that is more of an open cell foam.
 
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