Fish Finder advice

Capt. Lou

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I have a C120W and C90W hooked up to a Airmar B60 transducer. I also have an old Furuno FCV600L. bought boat with this package. The Furuno was not working last season and i cant identify what the transducer is. So my question is do i get a 3rd c series display(i like having FF on its own screen) or do i replace the furuno and if i do can i use the old transducer here are some pics of what i have. first pic is ducer that furuno is hooked up to second pic is a ducer that has a wheel that was not hooked up, i assume this was a speed/temp ducer for the furuno. and last pic is the airmar b60 for the raymarine.

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IMG_0352.jpg

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Tuna Pursuit

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Get a new ducer like a 260 and get a DSM300 for the raymarine. Then you can have the FF on either screen, split screen, whatever you want. I have the DSM300 and it's great. Digital technology, 1000w.
 

Capt. Lou

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Get a new ducer like a 260 and get a DSM300 for the raymarine. Then you can have the FF on either screen, split screen, whatever you want. I have the DSM300 and it's great. Digital technology, 1000w.
Ive got the dsm 300 just don't have the 1000w transducer. so i guess your saying upgrade the transducer and continue to use the raymarine stuff and ditch the furuno/separate FF all together.
 

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Lou,

Just a heads up; you cannot network a THIRD C-Wide to an existing network. That was one of the downfalls of the C Series, and was reserved to the E-Wide models only. You can still get a standalone C-Wide, although Raymarine no longer sells them direct and setup a DSM300 with a 1kW. However, I'd recommend going with a standalone FCV-587 from Furuno with a 1kW ducer, and price wise you'd still be ahead of the game. Also, and you can google this, the DSM300 has been a nightmare in a lot of cases; system lockups, etc. It all depends on a few factors; where it was built, Mexico/Hungary, the type of power cable used, while some worked fine out of the box. You can still network a standalone FF via NMEA0183 to the C-Wide network to provide the ability to use the Mark button as well as input NavData into the display, but the 587 I feel is a far superior FF than Ray's DSM. Just my 2 cents.
 

Capt. Lou

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Lou,

Just a heads up; you cannot network a THIRD C-Wide to an existing network. That was one of the downfalls of the C Series, and was reserved to the E-Wide models only. You can still get a standalone C-Wide, although Raymarine no longer sells them direct and setup a DSM300 with a 1kW. However, I'd recommend going with a standalone FCV-587 from Furuno with a 1kW ducer, and price wise you'd still be ahead of the game. Also, and you can google this, the DSM300 has been a nightmare in a lot of cases; system lockups, etc. It all depends on a few factors; where it was built, Mexico/Hungary, the type of power cable used, while some worked fine out of the box. You can still network a standalone FF via NMEA0183 to the C-Wide network to provide the ability to use the Mark button as well as input NavData into the display, but the 587 I feel is a far superior FF than Ray's DSM. Just my 2 cents.

I have a dsm from Hungary and i always loose connection and the freakin thing beeps like crazy. I talked to raymarine and they said to send them the DSM which i will do this week. I think i may take your advice and go with a stand alone furuno. I have had the C wide on my last 2 boats and have had the same isssues. time to start shopping. You like the FCV 587 and a 1 kw transducer? i will research that. thanks guys
 

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I have a dsm from Hungary and i always loose connection and the freakin thing beeps like crazy. I talked to raymarine and they said to send them the DSM which i will do this week. I think i may take your advice and go with a stand alone furuno. I have had the C wide on my last 2 boats and have had the same isssues. time to start shopping. You like the FCV 587 and a 1 kw transducer? i will research that. thanks guys

I do loose the connection on mine but it seems to be from low battery voltage. I start the genny and it's fine.
 

Capt. Lou

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What Transducer do you all recommend? I hate having all these thru hulls that arent being used anymore. I wish i could use an existing hole or maybe a in hull transducer. i counted 5 total 2 being used. 2 llok like old dyteck temperature thruhulls and the other one is the plastic thru hull with the wheel.
 

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Lou,

Just a heads up; you cannot network a THIRD C-Wide to an existing network. That was one of the downfalls of the C Series, and was reserved to the E-Wide models only. You can still get a standalone C-Wide, although Raymarine no longer sells them direct and setup a DSM300 with a 1kW. However, I'd recommend going with a standalone FCV-587 from Furuno with a 1kW ducer, and price wise you'd still be ahead of the game. Also, and you can google this, the DSM300 has been a nightmare in a lot of cases; system lockups, etc. It all depends on a few factors; where it was built, Mexico/Hungary, the type of power cable used, while some worked fine out of the box. You can still network a standalone FF via NMEA0183 to the C-Wide network to provide the ability to use the Mark button as well as input NavData into the display, but the 587 I feel is a far superior FF than Ray's DSM. Just my 2 cents.

Chris your killin me here. I have 2 DSM300's, you never told me they suck. The only trouble I have had is lost connnection but as I said seems to be low battery voltage. Is there another raymarine box that is better? I'm locked into my 2 displays.
 

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An open invitation to Raymarine - The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum

Pretty recent thread about the issue on THT. Seems to be with ones manufactured in a specific country...Mexico? I thought the ones from Hungary were the good ones. Haven't been keeping track since I decided to go with Simrad. Anyway the good news is it seems Raymarine is stepping up and sending people who are having issues new units.
 

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Chris your killin me here. I have 2 DSM300's, you never told me they suck. The only trouble I have had is lost connnection but as I said seems to be low battery voltage. Is there another raymarine box that is better? I'm locked into my 2 displays.

I'm sorry Rich, not every DSM300 has the lost connection issue, Raymarine estimates the number to be around 10%, and since you hadn't mentioned any problem with your system, I figured you were one of the lucky ones.

However, since Tom Surran from Raymarine's statement on the Hull Truth, Raymarine has since issued a blanket voluntary recall for any DSM30 or DSM300 produced (I just found this out today). It just needs to be removed, sent to Nashua, and Raymarine will repair or replace each DSM, be it from Mexico or Hungary, and also supply a replacement power cable, as that was another factor causing the dropped signal. The problems basically came down to this: The Mexican built modules had warped PCBs from overtorquing the connectors, some had certain software had issues with maintaining an IP address causing the intermittent lost connections, compounded by the earlier power connector in which the copper c-contacts were spaced too far apart, and once the power was lost for a split second, the master MFD would not reassign an IP address to the unit, sometimes locking the entire system up. Raymarine is not supplying dealers any labor warranty allowance for this DSM recall, and honestly there were never any reimbursements for any of the DSM service calls that required software updates or replacement cables. However, it's a relatively easy module to remove, and I urge anyone with a DSM to take advantage and send the unit in for service. I apologize again for not making this a major post, but like I said, I was told by Raymarine for years that only 10% of the units worldwide had issues, and almost all of them would be corrected by simply replacing the power cord and updating the software. Good luck to all.
 

Capt. Lou

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alright i think i am going to go with the FCV 587 and i think i am just going to widen that hole i have for the old plastic speed/temp transducer and go with a b164 1k w 12* or 0*. depending on hull measurement. i think the one hooked to raymarine is 12*. Anyway thoughts on that?
 

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Hey Lou,

If there already is a 12 degree B60, then the B164 12 degree is the spot on replacement. If you or someone has a digital protractor at the yard, it'd be best to still verify it's within the 8 to 16 degree range which would suit the 12 degree sensor. Good luck!
 

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It was very impressive at the Miami Show, but I've yet to see it in action, and was primarly built for outboard driven boats, as it requires use of their proprietary transom mount transducer. It will be very popular with the small center console crowd and fresh water fisherman as well.
 

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It was very impressive at the Miami Show, but I've yet to see it in action, and was primarly built for outboard driven boats, as it requires use of their proprietary transom mount transducer. It will be very popular with the small center console crowd and fresh water fisherman as well.


if they offered bigger then a 5 inch screen it would be REAL nice, they also claim side imaging and chirp have both been effective to 600ft in saltwater.
 
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