Fitting a prop sanity check

[Downrigga]

You know leaky, if your hull was cored the prop would have fit perfectly the first shot.

 

[leaky]

You know leaky. If your hull wss cored the prop would have fit perfectly the first shot.

And if it had a diesel it would have sprouted a perfectly fit nibral prop?

 

[traditions]

Yeah. I bought a cutless remover/prop puller last year and learnt my lesson on prop removal and replacement. You do NOT want to be standing behind that thing when it finally decides to come off. Because it's still pissed off from being put on the shaft.

Leave one nut loose on the shaft, stops the wheel from going to far

 

[traditions]

Some key ways arent completely square on bottom, and you have to round the edges of the key to get it to sit flat in the key way. I have seen this before on aquamet 22 material . When you put the key in the key way it will rock back and forth. This may not be your problem but I have seen it many times,

 

[Toolate]

5200 sissies. I carry a tube in my back pocket

I brush my teeth with it.

@leaky what compound are you using? I use coarse valve grinding compound and never went longer than maybe 20-30 mins on a wheel. Couple lines with a sharpie as posted and you can see the inside of the prop and shaft taper lose their shine as the bronze wears away. Sounds like you have a bad wheel or a compound that isnt coarse enough. Also owned a boat with twins for 6 years and had the wheels off every winter before I knew what lapping was so you wont die if you skip this step on a temp prop. Good learning experience though so worth doing and if this wheel fits as poorly as you say then you should put some time in so you don’t freak out over some vibration that might be caused by a poor fit. Boats....

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EDIT TO ADD- is there a thin bushing in that hub? Never lapped a prop with one but looks like it has a 1/8 thick bushing in it? Never worked with one myself

 

[Genius]

wow, nice catch.

 

[leaky]

I brush my teeth with it.

@leaky what compound are you using? I use coarse valve grinding compound and never went longer than maybe 20-30 mins on a wheel. Couple lines with a sharpie as posted and you can see the inside of the prop and shaft taper lose their shine as the bronze wears away. Sounds like you have a bad wheel or a compound that isnt coarse enough. Also owned a boat with twins for 6 years and had the wheels off every winter before I knew what lapping was so you wont die if you skip this step on a temp prop. Good learning experience though so worth doing and if this wheel fits as poorly as you say then you should put some time in so you don’t freak out over some vibration that might be caused by a poor fit. Boats....

(https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...jy2cSW0ZfuAhW6FlkFHT6FBwcQ5bgDegQIFRBF&adurl=)

EDIT TO ADD- is there a thin bushing in that hub? Never lapped a prop with one but looks like it has a 1/8 thick bushing in it? Never worked with one myself

Thanks!

No bushing, I see what you mean, it's my sharpie scribbling, marking where the prop goes but missing the other side of the shaft and writing on the hub.

I have this permatex stuff, which is all I see locally. Ordered clover on Amazon, showing up Friday. Will try to seek that napa stuff tomorrow too.

Just started at it again, not actually rotating the prop 360 seems to keep the grit distributed, haven't checked results yet but the change in technique seems promising.

 

[leaky]

Oh ya I think I am good here. Just a little time using the correct technique and now I see results like this. Before all I had was 1 inch of the marker gone, could spin the prop around 5 times and mostly just rode there. Now if I just rotate the prop 30 degrees from lined up keyways one direction and the other I get this. Was in such disbelief I tried it twice and same result.

 

[leaky]

Thanks again guys! I spun it over some more, continues to spread out and I feel like it's all working how it's supposed to now.

Friday that other compound & the prussian blue is showing up, going to put it down at this state, then work it a little more and check it with the other stuff.

Will get the prop on and then the rudder, tiller, cylinder stuff, which was the end game at this step that installing the prop was holding me back from (because it's harder to constantly take prop on/off with the rudder there)..

Also grabbed another key at Merri Mar today and rounded up my good files, as well as a giant adjustable from harbor freight, so I should be able to wrap this up all no problem.

 

[Beamie]

I do use a little bit of neverseize between prop and shaft

I hand rub a little molycote gn paste on the taper

You fellow marine engineers will know what manual I got that from

Alfa Laval. Tapered shaft to bowl on a purifier. So I do it on prop shafts too.

 

[Beamie]

That last pic you post looks good leaky. You got it!