Fuel System

Blackjak

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Im replacing the fuel tanks on my Dyer. The old system drew from the port tank and returned to the same. The tanks had a leveling line.
I plan on still having a leveling line, but would like to have the option to choose which tank to draw & return to.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to set this up?
 

WoundUpMarine

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Blackjak

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Brooksie- I was looking at this valve, seems like it would do what I’m looking for. Do you have any experience with them? Looks like they have two styles, one allows you to pull from either tank, and the “A” version also allows to pull from both As well. Am I reading that correct?

Woundup- I was looking through those articles.

Thanks for your input guys!
 

Genius

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I have one of those valves. It works great. Options are port side use, starboard side use and off. It switches both supply and return. I find it a big improvement from two, three-way valves.

EDIT: I didn't realize they had another option with the "both" feature. Hmm, that topic is another opinionated subject.
 
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I see that Groco valve on a lot of boats and it works well. I have 3 tanks and all 6 lines have a valve which allows you to draw and separately return to whichever tank or tanks you want. That works well if you're paying attention but is overly complicated for a small boat and you have to watch to avoid emptying one tank and overfilling another with returning fuel. The Groco valve takes this out of the thought process. It's like my bilge pump switch, there is no off position.
 

Brooksie

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Brooksie- I was looking at this valve, seems like it would do what I’m looking for. Do you have any experience with them? Looks like they have two styles, one allows you to pull from either tank, and the “A” version also allows to pull from both As well. Am I reading that correct?
I have one on my FL boat, you can't make a mistake using one (like returning to a full tank you are not drawing from}. Not sure about the 2 styles, mine can only pull from one tank at a time. The boat was built in '62 and the valve is original in case you question the quality.
I have a friend that has one for sale (came off his airplane) I'll ask what he wants for it. He won't be kack up here till April however.
 

Brooksie

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PS: I have seen homemade setups using ball valves with their handles connected by a tierod so when suction line is opened, return has to be opened also. That may work better, piping-wise in some situations b/c all the lines don't have to run to a single spot, but not quite as foolproof though.
 

Brooksie

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Friend wants $250. for valve.... WOW I had no idea
 
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NC_Colfax

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Brooksie

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I'm a little embarrassed about the price my friend is asking for his tank valve. I think that for 1/10th that price you could make up something like shown below and it would be a lot easier & neater to pipe up. Same result, neater piping, cheaper, can see at a glance. Tank valves.png
 
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AGL

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It's not hard to get to the tanks on my boat, so if I use the port tank I open the port supply and return, closing starboard tank valves. If using the starboard I close the port valves and open the starboard valves. The lines from those valves just meet at a "T"
The two Racor set-ups are between the tank valves and the "T" just in case one side gets plugged.
After the "T" there is an electric pump to the small day tank above the engine. If that fails I need to use the tank drains to fill a container to fill the day tank. That should be pretty reliable. :)
 

Brooksie

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Im replacing the fuel tanks on my Dyer. The old system drew from the port tank and returned to the same. The tanks had a leveling line.
I plan on still having a leveling line, but would like to have the option to choose which tank to draw & return to.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to set this up?
Unbalancing line sometimes. My Willard had a ballasting issue b/c of a generator which had been removed years b/4. It also had a "balancing" line. So it had a list b/c of the ballast but when the "balancing" line was opened, it listed even more b/c fuel would migrate form the higher tank to the lower. Luckily everything was tight and the vents were high but I can envision a situation where fuel could be lost so I never open that line.
 

chortle

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I'm a little embarrassed about the price my friend is asking for his tank valve. I think that for 1/10th that price you could make up something like shown below and it would be a lot easier & neater to pipe up. Same result, neater piping, cheaper, can see at a glance. View attachment 103547

I like Brooksie's solution, real easy to do it right.

My arrangement is shown below. My mechanic moved the valves the way he thought was correct before the sea trial, five minutes into the sea trial smoke was coming out of the engine room, fuel was all over the engine and in the bilge, what a mess.

These valves are $25 each so it is an inexpensive solution but you need a label or marking on the bulkhead to indicate how they work or you could easily screw up and cause a dangerous situation. I had a label made.
108AMC 1/4 3-WAY VALVE Brass FIP Three Ends Shut Off Cock 09508-04 Anderson Metals Brass Shut Off Cocks

1614620653616.png

The new installation pictured below before the mechanic moved the valves, this arrangement had the return line going only to the starboard tank, which was okay but not ideal, he turned that valve to match the one below which blocked any return fuel from going to either tank. The line blew off and caused a dangerous and messy situation. I used the sketch above to make a laminated tag showing the correct valve arrangement and how it would function so you could correctly isolate one tank if you needed to without having to guess.
1614621436579.png
 

WoundUpMarine

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Downrigga

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So those all in one valves are great in simplicity, but they don't allow any flexibily in how you run your tanks. Say you want to empty a tank, you can return it to your other tank with separate valves. If you're building new tanks, do it right. Have downpipes put on the returns and run with all your valves open, never touch a valve again, never worry about swapping tanks to keep things balanced, and enjoy boating.
Someone gets it. The picture above is actually off a bit. The valves on the return lines shown should be check valves not ball valves. It's that simple. No need for a cross over line. The key is the drop tubes on the return line. Head pressure is your best friend. All 6 tappings on top of the tanks.
 
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Aboard_Adventurer

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I ran the Groco 6 port valve in our last boat and liked it so much I just installed another in our new boat when doing a fuel system refit. They are extremely handy and easy to use for a two tank setup. As previously mentioned, they don't provide the flexibility to draw from tank A and return to tank B, but I've personally never found that to be a problem. Highly recommended if you want to eliminate the potential errors of a multi-valve fuel selection configuration. They can be found on ebay for under $150.
 

Islandlure

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Not sure how I'm going to make it yet but I thought this was a nice clean setup. Anyone with ideas on how to make this?

IMG_4466.PNG
 
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