G10 fiberglass

[Toolate]

I bought a sheet of this stuff in 1/4" to make a couple backing plates out of and was thinking of bedding two pieces on my transom (after grinding to bare glass) with tapped holes for my volvo trim tabs so I wouldnt have to through bolt and deal with the core for all the holes.

Never even seen it but I drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4-20 plain steel bolt I had in the shop and thought I might try a little destructive testing. Couldnt even come close to pulling it out with a hammer so I put the bolt in the vise. First bolt broke (and bounced down behind the bench) so I did it again and it pulled out of the glass with a slight fracture around the hole which was very close to the edge. I have to say that I cant imagine how many pounds of force would be needed to pull a bolt straight out of this stuff. Probably several hundred.

What is anyone using this for? It certainly holds a bolt.

 

[Toolate]

in the vise

 

[Toolate]

bent bolt after it pulled out. First bolt snapped though.

 

[F/V First Team]

You have some epoxy board. Use it like super plywood and near-metal.

 

[hntrss]

I have seen good results with cleats tapped into solid glass. A lot of sportboats are done that way. Seems to work.

 

[Toolate]

No experience with it and its really something to contend with. Always thought if you wanted to fasten something permanently it should be in metal but the tapped fiberglass is growing on me and this stuff is incredibly strong. It aint cheap tho...

 

[hntrss]

I think you could lay up your own on a piece of melamine with some wax. I would want more material thickness than 1/4", but it is way stronger than you think it would be.

 

[F/V First Team]

Works in polyester laminates too.

 

[cb34]

Mounting tabs

That will work but you will still have to penetrate the hull for the electrical plug. Have mounted these on two boats, both solid glass.

 

[tunaorlater]

It only takes a few minutes to decore, sounds like more work to do it this way.

 

[BillD]

Instead of plywood backing it seems easy enough to "build up" your own FRP board using 1708 or 1808 with any resin. Make it as thick as you want.

 

[Toolate]

That will work but you will still have to penetrate the hull for the electrical plug. Have mounted these on two boats, both solid glass.

My hull is cored and thought I could do most of the work in my shop by making a backing plate that was perfectly flat (read here that this is important when installing Volvo tabs) and avoid decoring a big section although I would still have to do the big hole for the wire. Just make them, grind and glue them on really. Other reason is because the transom has a pretty good curve to it so I would have to build up some glass then grind it all flat for the tabs. Also access to inside bolting sucks back there...

Was going to glue the sheets on using epoxy (sorry) thickened with cabosil and mix in some chop strands after grinding the gelcoat away. Scuff the back of the G10 too. Bad idea?

Did you have to do a bunch of build up or grinding to get a flat spot on the boats you did?

 

[cb34]

My hull is cored and thought I could do most of the work in my shop by making a backing plate that was perfectly flat (read here that this is important when installing Volvo tabs) and avoid decoring a big section although I would still have to do the big hole for the wire. Just make them, grind and glue them on really. Other reason is because the transom has a pretty good curve to it so I would have to build up some glass then grind it all flat for the tabs. Also access to inside bolting sucks back there...

Was going to glue the sheets on using epoxy (sorry) thickened with cabosil and mix in some chop strands after grinding the gelcoat away. Scuff the back of the G10 too. Bad idea?

Did you have to do a bunch of build up or grinding to get a flat spot on the boats you did?

Not much transom rocker in the Calvin Beal hulls. The tabs will work with slight deflection