Had my hull media blasted today (with water)-

Toolate

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The guys did an incredible job of cleaning the hull and leaving the gelcoat. Process is just like sandblasting but uses water and the blasting media together to keep the dust down which was important to me since they did it in my driveway. They spread plastic, taped all the seams and went at it. The result was a nice clean bottom and a blank slate to start smoothing the hull and barrier coat/ablative paint finish.

Mobile Blast Away- Mike Borchetta ([email protected]) 845 661 7366. I am near Stamford CT.

Cant recommend these guys enough. Great communications, price was right and they showed up with 3 men and knocked it out in 4 hours. Even powerwashed my driveway for me too to get every last speck of dust off.

Here is before. 30' Sisu for those who havent read all of my ramblings if there are any of you left :rolleyes:

image.jpg
 

Toolate

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before #2.....

image.jpg
 

Toolate

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after #2.... Still need to finish with DA and do water line but so easy compared to what was there. No real "discoveries" either which is nice.

Would love a recommendation for paint products to get me in the water. Never done this before.

image.jpg
 

CEShawn

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This is a stupid question... how are these guy setup, they use your electricity and your water or do they come setup like some of the professional power washers I see down south.

I have no water or electricity at where I am looking to be... PITA
 

Estimator

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Question

Is there a reason why you don't use a chemical paint remover and scrape it off?
Would the paint remover damage the gel coat?
 

Keelboater

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"Would the paint remover damage the gel coat?"

I found out the hard way that "safe for gelcoat" on the container means nothing to the actual product inside of it. I did the bottom of my 13' whaler when I had it turned upside down. The stuff ran down the sides of the hull in the process. No big deal, it's safe. Yeah right. It ate the gelcoat right down to the bare fiberglass. I had to fair it out and repaint the hull because of that crap. So all I can say is proceed with caution and never mind what it says on the label!
 

Toolate

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I paid them 1000 bucks. Got two other numbers that were more like $1500...

THey came with a trailer set up with compressor and the media blaster hopper/hose and used only my water. I never even considered grinding/chemical stripping/sanding as I have done it to 8 boats in the past at various stages and I am too old (at 38) to do it again- back wont take it. Too busy too.

I still have to sand the waterline and go over the hull but that is cake compared to what was done. Really, 3 men, 4 hours here and probably an hour and a half travel plus their rig for a grand? They didnt make a ton on it and they do a good job. Mike is retired from mortgage business and way smarter than he needs to be to do what he does but, he likes it so he does it.

The paint and sandy stuff was 1" deep under the boat.

Keelboater, I am not sure what to do really. Barrier coat of some sort and then ablative bottom paint is what I was assuming. Would love some instruction on this. I dont think I have any major repairs to make (blisters or old damage) so I think a little fairing maybe and then the barrier coat? Some grinder dents here and there from a previous strip job. Suggestions?
 

Toolate

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Is barrier coat the best way to go?

Thinking about glassing in some lifting rails so would have to seal that fresh glass in right. Is barrier coat the way to go? Should I treat the fresh glass areas differently (gelcoat them first?) or just go over it all? No experience here.
 

MDI45

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Toolate,I would fiil the dents with hull and deck then use interlux 2000E barrier coat...
 

Keelboater

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You can fair out any damage with vinylester fairing compound. It goes on like bondo, but is waterproof. Just sand it smooth after it cures. Give the bottom a nice sanding to remove what is left of the paint and to be sure the surface is roughed up a little bit for the barrier coat. Wipe it down with some acetone or solvent and clean rags to make sure it is clean. Then just follow the directions for the barrier coat, which will take several coats. There is a golden window of opportunity for recoating the entire bottom, without having to sand the previous coat. But if you wait too long.......start sanding the bottom all over again to scuff up the barrier coat. The weather window plays a key role for the entire process if you want to avoid sanding more than you really have to. Be sure to have the time to tackle it like clockwork, and have good weather to do it in. Then it's not so bad and goes much faster. The best part of that job is you only have to do it once. Then use a nice ablative bottom paint. The base coat is usually a different color than the top two coats. That way when you begin to see signs of the base color, you know it's time to give it another coat of paint.
 

jwalka51

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It is terrible work. But last year I went to a specialty power tool store and asked him if he could recommend a sander that would make easy work of a boat bottom. He sold me a tool made by bosch for $350 that was like a regular DA but it also spun as well as vibrated. And when I say that it spins, I mean that you cant stop it if you tried. It took 6" hook and loop discs and it has a vacuum attachment to suck up the dust.

Anyways, I made a nice little ramp out of 2x4 and plywood about 36" long and 18" wide by 24" high. Put the ramp under the boat and lay on it as you sand and it is actually very comfortable and very efficient as that you can really push on the sander because you have something bracing your back. Slapped some 40 grit on that bitch and had at it.

To make a long story short I sanded the whole bottom of my webber cove 26 down to the gel coat in about 4-1/2 hours by myself. The boat had been painted three times since its last sanding. I was absolutely amazed with this sander. The thing was worth every penny. I have done this job before with conventional sanders and it would have taken 2 days to do it. Now that I have this thing I really don't dread the next bottom job. As a matter of fact, next time that you need it done , shoot me a pm. I will be glad to give you a price. lol.

I will try to remember to get a picture of the thing to put up for you guys.
 

Sailorgp

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I've successfully barrier coated 4 hulls in the past 35 years. Sanded the first three with belt sanders & 7" disk using 36 grit carbonium paper, The fourth hull was done using water blasted volcanic ash with a screened tarp laying on the ground underneath the hull. We then washed the hulls with lots of water and let them dry, Then proceeded to roll on 2 gallons of System 3 general purpose pure epoxy resin using 5" rollers. Adding pigment can help with the coating proposes by letting the user know where they've put the stuff on and how thick its on. After all the epoxy is rolled on and has hardened to it's 'green stage' or there abouts (still can mark epoxy with a fingernail imprint), it's ready to have the Interprotect coating started. Interprotect has a very forgiving application schedule whereby the user can take his sweet time rolling on several more coats of the grey epoxy modified coating that is so popular on so many hulls. AGain, you'd want to use at least two gallons of it on a 25' hull and probably 3 gallons on a 30 footer. Finally. apply two coats of Interlux Ablative anti-fouling that's compatible with the Interprotect. Other than the initial abrading of the hull via blasting or sanding, the subsequent coatings (epoxy, Interprotect, ant-fouling paint) need no sanding between coats if they're applied in the prescribed time frame. All four boats I did had varying stages of blistering before I repaired them. The repairs have held up well and are still blister free many years later.
 

Old Mud

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Keelboater

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".......Never done this before. "

Toolate - I almost forgot the most important thing about this part of your project;

Doing the bottom on Miss Sisu involves a completely different procedure than doing the bottom on Miss Nell. I don't want you to be too disappointed. :grin:
 

BOSBoatMan

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I would just hit it with the West 407....might need to do some areas twice...then after she's good and ready use the West 422 barrier coat additive...probably three or four coats. Then indicator coat for first bottom paint later...then two or more coats of excellent bottom paint.

Then...see ya in three years or when the indicator coat shows.

Speaking of which I wish I hadn't been so lazy and done an indicator coat myself!
 

Bawugna

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While I don't have nearly the expereince that many on here do, I can tell you how I did my hull and can tell you that it has been a real pleasure for the the last 15 seasons.

I hand scraped the hull with a 3 inch putty knife that was rounded off. Yes that is right.....3 inch, by hand on a 25 footer. It took an honest 25 manhours and I got down to gelcoat. I solvent washed the boat really well than soap washed it a few more times. I did a quick scuff and went to town with Interprotect. I went around the hull over and again until I ran through 2 gallons. I closely followed the re-coat times and did it in the spring when the temp and relative humidity was within the Specs on the cans.

I decided to use Interlux Micron CSC at the time and did a base coat of black and a pair of finish coats of blue. I worked with that for 4 years only doing touch ups in the spring where I saw black. By the 4th season I was touching up so much I was almost repainting the hull. That is when I decided to use Super Ship Bottom.

I spoke to the MFG of the paint at a boat show and he explained the idea behind a Hard Ablative vs a softer one like Interlux.....I was sold. I used Super ship Bottom and have had great results. I am currently on my 4th season without even touching my hull, that includes no powerwash at the end of the season, and I am just starting to see that the hull needs a re-coat. I will paint it again this spring and with luck will see another care free 4 seasons.

For as long as I have had my boat, I hve never had even a sprig of grass grow on it in South New Jersey.

So I would say, fair up as needed, do a barrier coat and then a good multiseason ablative paint. I heartily recommend Super Ship Bottom.

Good luck and enjoy the boat.......I love that thing I will tell you that. :)
 
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CEShawn

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Is anyone against barrier coating? Just curious, trying to see why not. I was about to do mine on my old boat and a reputable builder just said lay off it. Just get it down and put one coat of ablative on it, then every year powerwash it off. Never followed through on any plans but was very curious as to why he would say that. I think I must be missing something with that...
 

BOSBoatMan

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Okay back to this Super Ship Bottom paint...anybody else use this stuff? I am a no-nonsense cash and splash type...and like to get multiple seasons outta my paint...

Anybody else recommend...?
 

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