How to attach a Automatic Bilge Pump switch down in the keel

Shortlob

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I am replacing a couple of Rulemate 1100 pumps that never shut off in on a new to me downeaster. For the aft pump under the engine I will be using the Whale sub 1100 pump that is inline and lays nicely down in the bilge/keel area but I will have no access to secure it down under the engine. For the forward I plan to use a bigger pump with either water witches or the Ulitmate Jr/Sr switch but am not sure the best way to secure the automatic switch and separate pump down in the narrow part of the bilge. Any ideas or pictures would be a great help!
 
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Roy-c

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Whale pump

I thought the whale super sub pumps have a built in switch. How are you going to fasten the pump down ?
 

jsakovits

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On one of my prior boats the builder took a piece of stainless steel rub rail and attached a piece of wood at the base. Then installed both the pump and float switch to the block of wood. You then just drop the section of rub rail and use it to lower the pump/float assembly down into the keel area and look for a location to fasten the upper end of the rub rail to a location high above the bottom of the keel. I hope this is clear !
 

Shortlob

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Roy C You are correct- it does have a built in switch but I have no way to secure the pump in the bilge. The aft pump will lay down deep in the narrow keel under the engine with no access to secure it. Hopefull the weight on the hose and the pump will keep it in place. Im hoping that pump will keep the bilge dry where water would normally collect. In the forward area I will probably use a bigger Rule pump with a ultimate switch and have to fabricate some way to hold them in place. Thanks JSA- That is the kind of ideas I am looking for.
 

pugsley

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On one of my prior boats the builder took a piece of stainless steel rub rail and attached a piece of wood at the base. Then installed both the pump and float switch to the block of wood. You then just drop the section of rub rail and use it to lower the pump/float assembly down into the keel area and look for a location to fasten the upper end of the rub rail to a location high above the bottom of the keel. I hope this is clear !


did more or less the same thing, but with a piece of aluminum, mounted switch and pump and then it screws to the bulkhead.
 

eztbone

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Bilge

Take a 1/4" piece of starboard cut to the width of the pump/switch and the length of the depth of the bilge plus the length of the pump. Mark the location of a 90* turn and clamp onto a bench at that location. Use a heat gun at the turn and as the plastic heats up bend it and clamp it til it cools. Bolt the pump on the "L" use wire tys leading up and mount to something that is easy to reach.
 

Toolate

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I am going to use a diaphragm pump and mount it up where I can reach it then put this in the bilge. Hoping to have a pretty dry bilge so this pump will have less capacity but there will be a larger centrifugal backup a couple inches higher and forward. Should be able to just sit it down there and use the bend of the hose to have it sit where I want it. Really just to suck the bilge dry.

Buck Algonquin Navy Pump Strainer with Hose End - Bronze - Bilge Strainers - Bilge & All Purpose Pumps - Pumps - Downwind Marine
 

OLD BAY

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MDI45

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Take a 1/4" piece of starboard cut to the width of the pump/switch and the length of the depth of the bilge plus the length of the pump. Mark the location of a 90* turn and clamp onto a bench at that location. Use a heat gun at the turn and as the plastic heats up bend it and clamp it til it cools. Bolt the pump on the "L" use wire tys leading up and mount to something that is easy to reach.
I have done this on a few boats...it's real easy if you have a drip pan under the Motor..(like in a Wayne Beal I had).you can attach to the edge of that and let it hang down in the keel
 

Kodiakan

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Roy C You are correct- it does have a built in switch but I have no way to secure the pump in the bilge. The aft pump will lay down deep in the narrow keel under the engine with no access to secure it. Hopefull the weight on the hose and the pump will keep it in place. Im hoping that pump will keep the bilge dry where water would normally collect. In the forward area I will probably use a bigger Rule pump with a ultimate switch and have to fabricate some way to hold them in place. Thanks JSA- That is the kind of ideas I am looking for.

Either the king starboard or aluminum will work well. The Aluminum you can just bend in a vice. You don't want to just lay the pump in the bilge. Its tempting cuz it seems like it should stay in place but take the time and do it right. One less thing to worry about.....
 

oldshell55

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BHM36 , 38’ young bros ,
in mine I clean the bilge, grind a little spot, make some high density epoxy mix , set the strainer in it and your set. if it breaks and needs to be changed just chisel it out and do the same process. takes about 10 minutes, and you can put it where ever you want, lasts forever
 
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Shortlob

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Thanks for all the suggestions. The keel area of my bilge is hard to access through the engine hatch so I like the idea of attaching to aluminum or starboard and then dropping everything down to the lowest point. This is one project that is much different on a downeast. I have always had sportfish style boats where the bilge is usually flatter and easier to reach. Are diaphram pumps widely used as bilge pumps on downeasters as well. Im more used to the centrifical pumps and have not even considered one until this thread
 

captainlarry84

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The Jabsco diaphragm shower pump works well with a hose & bronze strainer on the end. It gets all of the water out of the keel. But they are a little slow & also require a secondary debris filter. I also placed a small block of wood in the bottom of the keel under the transmission & screwed in the small submersible bilge pump with a float switch. Lastly in front of the motor is the large Rule 3700 GPH pump. It I need this one I am in deep sh...t

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Raider Ronnie

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jplob96

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I have the same set-up as captainlarry except I used a Jabsco 18670-0123 water puppy pump. Strainer is not required. Besides the float switch I wired in a manual switch. This works very well and has been in place for about 8 years.
 

Curmudgeon

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I had a boat with a pump just sitting in the bilge when I got it. It got attached to a rod right away after problems with tipping over and running constantly or kinking the hose and not working but still running constantly. I don't know how the previous owner used it. I wouldn't have an unattached pump.
 

Shortlob

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Thanks for the ideas and pictures showing different ways to secure pumps in the bilge. I got a bettter idea now of how to get everything secure. Especially liked seeing the pics-I know this is not the best time of year to go take pictures. This forum is great for exchanging information
 
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