How to fix a stringer

CEShawn

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So I found this in my bilge today, its the most outboard of four stringers. It does not run up to the steering bulkhead. Okay, so maybe I've seen it before.

I imagine that this is just tabbed in or rolled over and is coming up, looks like a poor cure maybe? Boat is 17 years old, RP 35.

How would you go about repairing this?

Part of me is not sure if I should etch out as much gook from it as I can. Then fill in under it with epoxy and a filler. Use a small jack with a 4x4 off the overhead to push it back down to the hull? Or just add the filler and let it be where it is now. Then for a few feed tab it in with 4" wide cloth, 2 inch on the stringer 2 inch on the deck?

Something needs to be cut out?

What about running this forward to the steering bulkhead?

photo (39).jpg
 

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Ok, you ready?

You will need a small grinder and a hacksaw blade. Grind the area that you need back to good fiberglass, get rid of anything down in the corners along your stringer and open them up. Look for moisture. Once you have the corners opened up drag the hacksaw blade through following the length of your stringer opening that you just made, look for moisture as you're doing this. Get rid of any debris that you encounter. Be vigorous with your hacksaw fiddling. Flush with your choice of cleaning agent - acetone, brakleen, etc.


If no moisture is present continue onto next step

You now have the choice of filling the void with something or just letting it fill statically with resin (thanks gravity). Mix up a soupy batch of hull and deck and jam it in the void and fill along your stringer building up a nice radius (or not if you're just shooting from the hip and letting it fill up on its own). Use a few layers of mat as a base and then some fiberglass tapes to join everything back together, being sure to pleat your corners properly. A few layers of mat on top brings the whole piece together and makes it look super purdy.

Bonus level!!!

If you put some waxed gelcoat into your resin on the final layer (or if you are the daring sort, the entire project) it will then be all ready once it cures and you won't have to go back and cover it.

------

If there's moisture you have two options.
1.) keep going until there isn't any moisture (remove the stringer entirely)
2.) pretend it's not there and glass it back up
 

MDI45

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Shawn,I would get in there with your angle grinder(your friend)..with some 36 grit discs and clean her up real nice .....forget the epoxy......get some biaxial tape and some laminating resin and fix that right up.....don't worry yourself....it's probably bin like that for a long time
 

Keelboater

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I'm no glass expert, but I would not try to force it back down with a jack. I would fill what is there with either thickened epoxy or vinylester and glass over it. I'm sure you will here from more experienced builders so I'm just throwing in my 2 cents for now. How far until you reach the steering bulkhead?
 

CEShawn

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Travis, thanks, god if I ever run into you I owe you a dinner or a beer or something...

The part you tell me to grind out, is that like undercutting the joint of the stringer meeting the hull, then fill that with hull/deck putty? I imagine so. Hmm... I think I like the Brake Clean, because I can take a small red hose and blow out any issues in there.

Cool... now do I dare to grind in the water never doing it before LOL...
 

CEShawn

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6' to steering bulkhead... thanks guys for all the input...

still waiting for someone to comment on the washdown pump base that it has, all dried out...
 

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Circle file (trash can) that piece of played out plywood and put yourself in a nice hardglass plate. You can screw it directly to your stringer (with sealant) or glass it on, whichever you prefer.
 

pugsley

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grind off any glass that is loose, and an ample area around it (i would grind at least 10 extra inches, room permitting) to bond your new glass to. i don't think there is any reason you can't do this in the water...unless you are an overzealous grinder, and go right through the hull, but that would take a lot of doing.
 

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Don't judge the photo

Grind about 6" more than you need all around your stringer(red), cut out the corner as best you can (black), build up some putty (blue) like you can see here and be sure to smush it under your stringer. Allow the putty to taper off that last six inches where you're going back to un-ground fiberglass so you can seal it up nicely with your mat and resin so no liquid can work its way back in there. Be sure to putty in a radius on the front of your stringer too. Make it pretty now, and you won't say mean adult words later on when you run your bare elbow across it in the future.

afadsfadfa.jpg
 

mudhake

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a high output heat gun will be your friend if you do it in the water. I agree with travis.
 

Toolate

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The hacksaw was just to clean out the space under the stringer correct? You need something thin since the space starts at 1/4 and tapers to nothing I assume. Correct Travis?

Just trying to understand.
 

CEShawn

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That I can understand, perfectly, now let me go fuck it up! Thank you bigtime...
 

Toolate

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That I can understand, perfectly, now let me go fuck it up! Thank you bigtime...

Any idea what caused it? Just wonder if water is making its way into the wood farther back and causing it to swell etc.. Guess you will find out when you grind (out). It rhymes. Gotta grind out to find out. Vodka.
 

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The end was "capped" and then the stringer was tabbed in place. The end was never tabbed. So there was a small crack. Water found the crack, froze and expanded, making a bigger crack, then more water found the slightly larger crack...



Yada yada yada now you get to grind
 
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