Hull & Deck Putty uses/pictures

Toolate

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Rock hard, but you can grind it. mix it with gelcoat to have colored putty for your seams, mix it with resin to get it to flow better, mix it with chop to reinforce those hard to friggin' reach areas that you're going to glass over. fill that void you just de-cored, set that piece you're going to mount. Use it like glue, use it like filler, use it like it's the greatest thing in the world!!! Ok well maybe not quite like that, you might get some strange looks...

Need to soften that edge? Hull and deck. Need to radius that seam? Hull and deck. Need to bond the top unit to the hull? Hull and deck.

Does not blush. Does not have wax in it (unless you add wax or something that has wax). Makes great school projects for those wee ones. You can be evil and fill cupcake wrappers with your excess from projects and be a complete crap head to your co-workers (it's amazing what people will try to eat with a little frosting on it). Makes great targets for you plinkers out there (.30 cal kind of destroys the fun).

It's good stuff.
 

Raider Ronnie

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captainlarry84

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Need to bond the top unit to the hull? Hull and deck.

Now you tell me !!!:rolleyes:

A great product I have used it on a lot of fiberglass repair jobs.
Some examples:
When it cut fiberglass skin to remove damaged core I like to bed the new coring in H&D.
Great for filling small holes.
Great for the first coat of fairing on fiberglass repairs.
When I replaced windows & the coring around the edges was poor. I racked out the coring and packed in H&D puddy.

A negative is that H&D is very dark so when gelcoting over it the read out is high. In those cases I mix the colored gelcote into the H&D.

In this case I would not use H&D. You would not have enough work time with the produce. To bond a cap onto a hull I would use 5200 material. Better work time plus it will flex a little to keep a good seal over time.
 

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Don't stick yourself with obeying the hull and deck. Make it work for YOU. Cure times are suggestions - treat them accordingly.

Your visor will be just fine without the learning curve of hull and deck Steve :)
 

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captainlarry84

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Interesting stuff.

Larry- so when you put balsa into something that you are recoring you will bed it in H&D and then just go over it hot with epoxy/glass? They will all cure in there together and bond together?

Must be the same base material? Is the putty just thicker resin basically?

Holy shit there is so much great info and people on this site.

Yes it will all cure together. The H&D fills all the little voids.
 

steveinak

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Don't stick yourself with obeying the hull and deck. Make it work for YOU. Cure times are suggestions - treat them accordingly.

Your visor will be just fine without the learning curve of hull and deck Steve :)

Its going to have to be, i used just about a whole tube gluing the visor on and the 3 gussets i glassed in the other day really stiffened it up. I'm running out of working temps around here it was 20 this morning and never got over 45 all day. Stepped on the trunk this morning and almost slid off with the skim ice !!
20130920_101020[2].jpg

20130920_101020[2].jpg
 

steveinak

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A great product I have used it on a lot of fiberglass repair jobs.
Some examples:
When it cut fiberglass skin to remove damaged core I like to bed the new coring in H&D.
Great for filling small holes.
Great for the first coat of fairing on fiberglass repairs.
When I replaced windows & the coring around the edges was poor. I racked out the coring and packed in H&D puddy.

A negative is that H&D is very dark so when gelcoting over it the read out is high. In those cases I mix the colored gelcote into the H&D.

In this case I would not use H&D. You would not have enough work time with the produce. To bond a cap onto a hull I would use 5200 material. Better work time plus it will flex a little to keep a good seal over time.

Thanks Larry i did use 5200.
 

Ditchdigger

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Product

Is the product 5200 ? Maybe I missed the beginning of this. From the sounds of the questions, this is The Answer To All I might have to ask about fiberglass repair at the current time. Small holes previously drilled. 5200 after getting any wet core out ? Is this the product you are talking about ?
 

steveinak

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Is the product 5200 ? Maybe I missed the beginning of this. From the sounds of the questions, this is The Answer To All I might have to ask about fiberglass repair at the current time. Small holes previously drilled. 5200 after getting any wet core out ? Is this the product you are talking about ?

No i was saying i used 3M 5200 to attach my visor to my roof. For patching holes i think hull & deck putty is what the other guys were talking about.
 

Toolate

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Toolate

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So, if you were glassing your cockpit floor to the hull sides, could you mix this stuff with a little resin (to thin it a bit but not too much), maybe some fibers from chopped mat (rebar), trowel it in to make a nice curved corner and then lay some strips of fiberglass right over it all wet at the same time? Seems like it would less prone to crack and separate over time than if you did it in 2 steps.

Not sure what it is about this stuff that has me so intrigued. I am a home builder and used to filling and finishing in 2 layers.

Nope. No need to thin it out and add chop for this application. Simply pull some out onto your board with your putty knife that you've ground the edge into a round profile, mix up your catalyst and then apply your fillet along the edge. Now when you glass the cockpit floor, simply go up onto the sides like you normally would, covering this curved fillet.

Not sure about that 3M product, never seen it. But like I said before, many people make many different flavors of hull and deck. I'll see what I have for examples when I get back to the shop.
 

Fishin' Fever

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If your inside roll doesn't come out perfect, just mix some resin and mek and strike out with a paint brush OR just a paint brush with acetone. No sanding nessasary. Will make a nice smooth surface for tabbing down the deck.
 

Toolate

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The acetone just makes it so that the bristles on the brush are slick in comparison to the hull and deck so that you get a smoother finish rather than the stippling that would normally happen from them bring drawn across the surface of the sticky putty.

Makes it look nicer if you wont be able to get back to the putty before it cures to glass over it, you can get rid of any bumps, humps or clumps pretty easily that way.
 

Fishin' Fever

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The acetone just makes it so that the bristles on the brush are slick in comparison to the hull and deck so that you get a smoother finish rather than the stippling that would normally happen from them bring drawn across the surface of the sticky putty.

Makes it look nicer if you wont be able to get back to the putty before it cures to glass over it, you can get rid of any bumps, humps or clumps pretty easily that way.

Perfect explanation.
 
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