I see light at the end of the tunnel !

[Raider Ronnie]

Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel ! (thank god)


Fuel tanks are back from being enlarged and back installed. Tripple M Plastics did a great job enlarging tanks & adding spill catches around fills.

Pretty much done with glass work below deck. A few nidacore bulkheads stringer to stringer across left to glue & glass.


Livewell 90% done. Gelcoated light blue. All overflows (6) , fill, drain, LED lights plumbed or installed. Some wiring for the pumps left to do.

Should be done white gelcoating blige, fish boxes & rudder compartment the next few days. A handful of days wiring & mechanical stuff below deck and should be dry fitting new Coosa deck mid-late next week.

 

[googinhater]

Looks great Ronnie you should be real happy its like a new boat now you'll need to go bigger

 

[El Mar]

You must be pumped to get it in the water. nice Job!

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Also,
Spent a good amount of time last sunday am with my older son laying out the deck on the (3) new 5x10 Coosa boards on the floor of my garage with the use of the template I made of the old deck and then double & tripple checking measurements.

 

[tomy]

Ronnie those tanks look like the company did a SUPER job, worth the wait. nice to know that expanding a plastic tank is available.

you sure that live bait tank ain't a bathtub?:-D

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Ronnie those tanks look like the company did a SUPER job, worth the wait. nice to know that expanding a plastic tank is available.

you sure that live bait tank ain't a bathtub?:-D

Tom.
The livewell tank is/was actually part of a fiberglass truck body I replaced on a truck a while ago. Just happened that one of the compartments of the truck body was the perfect size.
Got another left over part of that truck body put aside that's gonna make a killer dock box / fillet table at the dock when I have time to work on it.

 

[BillD]

Ronnie,

What material are the Triple M tanks set on?

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Lots of long hrs & progress this week.
Bilge all gelcoated white.
All pumps mounted & plumbed.
All drains & fills plumbed.
Mount for high water alarm glassed & gelcoated down in the keel tunnel.

Wiring all pumps & lights below deck the next few days.
Should be dry fitting deck mid - late week.

 

[hntrss]

Nice work Ronnie, that is some project! How did you manage all those overflow drains on the livewell, do they tie together at some point?

 

[Raider Ronnie]

A few more

Rudder compartment just about done.

Steering ram & hoses cleaned up and re-installed (Still need to secure hoses to sides of stringers)
Livewell overflows plan to put 2 inline pvc shut off valves.
Waiting on a few more stainless thru hulls, 1 for the fish box mascerator pump and will go out transom, center of 2 livewell overflows, 2 other new stainless ones will will replace old plastic thru hulls for bilge pumps out the boats sides.

Transom helm controls & hatch mounted (waiting on Simrad JS10 toggle)

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Nice work Ronnie, that is some project! How did you manage all those overflow drains on the livewell, do they tie together at some point?

2 larger overflow drains (1 1/2) drilled lower than sides, out the stern with separate thru hulls
4 side drains (2 each side) out sides ( 1 1/8 pvc pipe through stringers) lots of pitch & connections to stainless thru hulls with 1 1/8 sanitation hose both clamped & 5200 (even more pitch) side thru hulls drilled just below read spray rails but well above water line.

 

[El Mar]

Looks great, that helm station is very slick.

Will it be covered from the sides when the hatch is closed?

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Looks great, that helm station is very slick.

Will it be covered from the sides when the hatch is closed?

Once deck is down need to make the stern engine air box there.
About 20 inches wide & 10 inches deep.
Got a small 12 inch square anchor hatch will cut in and use to access inside.
Air boxes (stern, port & stb) will be made out of nidacore sheets I have.

 

[Capt. Rick]

Nice work ! I am curious about the Coosa board, looks like you are using 3/4"?. Will you be glassing the underside as well as the top side? With regard to the macerator pump for your bait well pump out....if that gets submerged, or partially submerged, or get any water splashed that gets inside, they will not last long. I burned out a couple of those style pumps on my boat (not cheap)... I finally changed the pump to one of the Rule 1600 pumps which is fully submersible and since then have been golden. Keep up the good work, looking awesome.

 

[strikecharters]

Centek exhaust

Boat looks great Ron. Question on the Centek offset muffler. Is that plumbed for 6'' pipe and are you running a 300 Yanmar? If so, could u give me the model # of the muffler, think I have the room to make it work in mine, thanks.

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Nice work ! I am curious about the Coosa board, looks like you are using 3/4"?. Will you be glassing the underside as well as the top side? With regard to the macerator pump for your bait well pump out....if that gets submerged, or partially submerged, or get any water splashed that gets inside, they will not last long. I burned out a couple of those style pumps on my boat (not cheap)... I finally changed the pump to one of the Rule 1600 pumps which is fully submersible and since then have been golden. Keep up the good work, looking awesome.

Rick
The Coosa is 3/4 bluewater 26
It will get 1 Matt bottom side & white gelcoated (accept over fuel tanks where no one will see.
Top side will get 2 Matt, a 1708 and 2 more Matt.
Deck will be both glued with Nidabond and screwed with stainless screws into fiberglass angle.
As for the livewell.
Pumps are in bilge no submerged in livewell.
Using a Rule tournament series 1600 for water in. I take fitting is about 2 inches off bottom and has a deflector inside so the water will go in a circular direction.
Because the livewell is below deck the mascerator pump is needed to pump it out.
That pump out thru hull is at the very bottom at the tanks lowest point.
The pump is mounted in the bilge behind the transmission area.
Inline to that pump I plumber a 1 1/2 PVC ball valve then to a t fitting with another 1 1/8 PVC ball valve and off that a length of 1 1/8 hose goes down laying flat on the very bottom of the keel.
I figure if need be I close the livewell ball valve and the hove laying on the bottom of the keel is an emergency bilge pump.
Did the same with an extra ball valve for the fish boat mascerator pump mounted in the rudder compartment.
Don't think mascerator pumps are intended to be used as bilge pumps but figure it can't hurt, especially since I take paying passengers out & their safety is on me.

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Boat looks great Ron. Question on the Centek offset muffler. Is that plumbed for 6'' pipe and are you running a 300 Yanmar? If so, could u give me the model # of the muffler, think I have the room to make it work in mine, thanks.

Jim
Give me a call tonight & ill read off the number to you.
Got the muffler @ H & H propeller a few years ago.
508 326-9287

 

[clementine]

Your rebuild looks awesome, nice work.

The layup schedule for the top of the deck seems more than adequate but wouldn't it be advantageous to beef up the bottom skin considering that is where all of the tension forces are located? Maybe the spans are short enough that it doesn't matter.. I was just wondering.

-Sam

 

[Raider Ronnie]

Lots of guys I've asked who did a deck with Coosa did nothing for layup on bottom side and their span was much wider than mine. Some just white gelcoated bottom so bilge is bright.
I've got 4 stringers and only 2ft between centers & outers.
Got a few more 1 1/2 lengths on Nidacore I plan to notch tops of stringers and nidabond in place across stringers in high traffic areas before the deck goes down, mainly in front of and over the fuel tanks & across the winterback door area.
Also, bought 5x10 sheets of the Coosa so I'll onlt have 2 seams and will have about an 8 inch length of the Coosa glued & screwed below the seams..
One thing is for sure, This deck won't sound like a 200 year house floor squeaking when you walk on it like I've been dealing with for the last 3-4 years & the gelcoat/ non skid won't be popping off in big chunks every spring with the 1st warm up we get....

Your rebuild looks awesome, nice work.

The layup schedule for the top of the deck seems more than adequate but wouldn't it be advantageous to beef up the bottom skin considering that is where all of the tension forces are located? Maybe the spans are short enough that it doesn't matter.. I was just wondering.

-Sam

 

[traditions]

What are you using for nonskid? I just did phillyclad,but a little much for recreation.