In water engine/shaft alignment procedure with a PSS Dripless Shaft Seal?

TCL

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The reason for the alignment check is that while at idle I hit a sand bar? The Port engine stalled. Prior to this event the Port propel shaft was fairly easy to rotate by hand, after the sand bar hit it is slightly more difficult to turn by hand…but not too bad.

Are there any special procedures to follow with a Dripless? Boat is currently on the hard, but planning on doing the alignment in the water this spring…or should I do a pre-alignment while on the hard?

I’m thinking that once the flange bolts are loosened I’ll be able to slide the shaft aft a few thousands of an inch in order to get a feeler gage in there.

Am I missing anything? I’m not planning on loosen the PSS shaft collar.
 

WoundUpMarine

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osprey47

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I'm confused. Why are you concerned about the PYI Dripless? If your prop shaft is difficult to turn, suggest you focus on determining if shaft was bent or the stern tube is damaged.

By realigning are you referring to re-installing the prop shaft and aligning with the engine by adjusting the engine mounts? If so, then you are looking at establishing the correct compression on the PYI bellows. You can order new set screws from PYI so moving the collar is easy to do.

Are you concerned about proper sealing of the collar to the carbon ring on the bellows?

Need more information.

(I have had PYI on two boats reaching back to 2000, replaced, had PYI inspect one unit (no issues...I pulled the prop shaft and installed a flex-coupling. I stay with PYI in spite of my mechanic favoring Tides Marine.)

Osprey47
 

tunafishhkg

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The engine alignment is the last step. First determine if the shaft is damaged or bent. Why is it hard to turn? The shaft seal set up should be done after all else it true.
Just had turnwright check a shaft that had hit and it was like a camshaft with multiple bends lol, not usual but happens and as long as no cracks, can be straightened!!
 

TCL

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Thanks for all the replies. Fortunately the running gear is all in good shape. An engine alignment will be done this spring.
Like I said the shaft seems hard to turn by hand but it may still be in the acceptable range. I had both Cutlass Bearings replaced just prior to the grounding so the drag that I’m feeling is probably just the new Cutlass.
 

tunafishhkg

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Thanks for all the replies. Fortunately the running gear is all in good shape. An engine alignment will be done this spring.
Like I said the shaft seems hard to turn by hand but it may still be in the acceptable range. I had both Cutlass Bearings replaced just prior to the grounding so the drag that I’m feeling is probably just the new Cutlass.
How did you verify its good? Cutlass would not normally move or move enough to cause the drag you are describing? Maybe spinning dry now its on the hard could cause it so throw some soap and try but I would seriously investigate further given the conditions you have described. Can try a rough test with the shaft as is on the boat with a dial indicator in a few spots at very least!!
 

TCL

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How did you verify its good? Cutlass would not normally move or move enough to cause the drag you are describing? Maybe spinning dry now its on the hard could cause it so throw some soap and try but I would seriously investigate further given the conditions you have described. Can try a rough test with the shaft as is on the boat with a dial indicator in a few spots at very least!!
Yes, that’s what I did. I don’t have a dial indicator but I made one with a pencil and it made a mark all the way around the shaft which was lubricated with soap and water.
 

ccc

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I know this is not helpful, but sometimes they‘re just ‘slightly harder to turn’ because you know you hit something with it and are expecting something.
 

leaky

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Sliding the shaft aft would compressor the collar against bellows and be wouldn't cause any issues for you. You'd only need to really worry if you were moving the collar or shaft forward.

Ha! this is good info and durr on my part...

I actually was avoiding fully securing my dripless because I was thinking "well before they boat goes in the water I'm sure they are going to want to check alignment of the shaft again as part of the engine prep".. Actually that is a total non issue and I should put the damn thing together before I lose any parts.
 

harpoon83

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Ha! this is good info and durr on my part...

I actually was avoiding fully securing my dripless because I was thinking "well before they boat goes in the water I'm sure they are going to want to check alignment of the shaft again as part of the engine prep".. Actually that is a total non issue and I should put the damn thing together before I lose any parts.
but if you don't lose parts how will you get to buy the same piece again....just to find the original part 2 days later.
 

TCL

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I know this is not helpful, but sometimes they‘re just ‘slightly harder to turn’ because you know you hit something with it and are expecting something.
You know, there’s a lot of truth to that statement…kind of like how the engine seems to make weird noises just as you loose sight of land and the weather gets snooty.
 

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