Just completed maintenance on one Cummins after cooler

BillD

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After coolers must be serviced every 4 seasons minimum no matter how many hours of use on them. For engines that run 1000s of hours per year every 2-3 years is good.

This after cooler on my Cummins 6BTA 370 (new RECON) was serviced with Metal Lube marine grease BEFORE the engine was installed in the Blackfin.

Greasing the contact/mating surfaces and O ring is a must and then regular cleaning and re-greasing with new O rings if the owner expects to have the after cooler last the life of the boat.

The Cummins coolers on the 6BTA and 6CTA are mounted vertically on the engine. Remember, the bottom 1/3 or so of the after cooler core is filled with raw water all the time.

The brass/copper/aluminum will "eat at each other" unless regular maintained with grease.

Here are some pictures of what I did.

I removed the after cooler from the engine and then disassembled horizontally in a vice. The cooler has 4 seasons on it, 515 hrs. +-

btw, the core slid out of the housing slick as slick! It was "greased" 4 years ago. No whacking the core out with a block of wood. No corrosion with the mating surfaces.

You can see a light amount of black gunk/goo on the air side fins. All normal.
My 370s are setup so that crank case fumes are recirculated through the air cleaner.

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BillD

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I brought the after cooler core and the housing to my local diesel trucj service center to use their parts cleaner tank. I also use brake cleaner and got the fins and tubes on the after cooler cleaned up along with the inside of the housing and end caps.

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BillD

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A few more of greasing up

The new O ring is on the end of the core.

When the end caps are bolted back on the bevel or chamfer of the end cap seals with the O ring

btw, it's a good idea to mark the top and bottom end caps before you disassemble, makes orientation a bit easier to put all back together.

Also, the bundle needs to be placed back in and turned the correct way for the pressured intake air to pass through.

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HappyHour

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A handy trick to do once/ twice a year, depending on hours you put on engines: Run a can of brake cleaner thru the turbo while running the engine 1600-1700 rpm. Have to use the non flammable type. Keeps the residue and tarnish off the fins of the turbo, and cleans up the fins on the after cooler a bit. It will be a stinky white/gray smoke coming outta the exhaust.

I do mine every few oil changes.
 

WoundUpMarine

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HappyHour

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Well, my mechanic who builds Diesel engines does this. Haven't had a problem. By the time the cleaner gets to the cylinders, it's mostly oil based anyways. I mean, look at bills after cooler.

In the ole days, people use to pour antifreeze in the intake to clean the carbon off the piston tops. I'm sure some still do it.
 

jerseysportfisher

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Actually we used plain old water. When the eninge is up to temp. Run her no load half throttle. With a bottle you would water a plant' spray plain old water into the turbo. Heat will turn it to steam and it does wonders on carbon with no I'll effect.
 

HappyHour

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So I'd bet break cleaner would be better then water! But yes I've herd water or coolant does this.

It's the little things that count.
 

BillD

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Actually we used plain old water. When the eninge is up to temp. Run her no load half throttle. With a bottle you would water a plant' spray plain old water into the turbo. Heat will turn it to steam and it does wonders on carbon with no I'll effect.

Yes, water spray into the turbo. Formula I'm familiar with is "50/50" Dawn dish detergent and water. Spray away into the turbo @ cruise rpms or better.
 

WC1966

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serviced with Metal Lube marine grease

Bill can you post a pic of the grease?
I goggled and did not feel comfortable w/ the results
 

tomy

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just put mine back onto boat after servicing. ALSO had a drain taped and installed while off boat for the condinsation issue's
 

Pitou

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just put mine back onto boat after servicing. ALSO had a drain taped and installed while off boat for the condinsation issue's

Added a purge valve to mine as well in 2011. The new replacement coolers come through with them.
 

tomy

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pitou ! always open=? 0r do yoy just clear as needed...I know I was told to install one for that issue but got to learn what is best proceedure for operating....know there is more onfo on the diesel site:eek:
 

Pitou

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pitou ! always open=? 0r do yoy just clear as needed...I know I was told to install one for that issue but got to learn what is best proceedure for operating....know there is more onfo on the diesel site:eek:

I don't claim to be an expert on this subject, but just follow the advice of my equipment repair guy who I and many others hold in high regard.

The purge/drain valve is on the air side and allows condensate to drain from the cooler as opposed to sitting and then introduced to your engine. Two schools of thought I think.
1) Let it be without a drain because there is no more water being introduced than what is being introduced from what is just in the air and condensates on the air side from the seawater cooling.
2). Let it drain/purge because getting the liquid/condensate water out makes sense. I don't believe that the drain is active when running as I would think that you would lose boost.

I do know that when I shutdown and run my finger over the drain/purge valve that there is some wet fresh water on the end of the nipple. So it must do some good. ???? Ingesting seawater to the air side ... catastrophic ... a little condensate ... not so much.

BTW ... great job on the cooler maintenance!
 

BillD

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Condensation drain on an after cooler is no necessary.
Doesn't hurt to have one but just another "fitting", valve whatever to mess with and then you gotta drain the dam thing.

Condensation is fresh water and if you service the aftercoolers every 3-4 years why bother with a drain?

JMO,
 

Greg Diesel

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All you guys with B and C Cummins without condensate drains built into the intercoolers should be drilling 2-1/8" holes in the lowest point of the air side of the intercooler housings to allow condensate to drain. This was a campaign from Cummins. When running slow for extended periods of time on a warm humid day in early spring could build condensation up 1/4" way up the intercooler and when you throttle up the turbo can push that water into the engine causing catastrophic failure. And no the boost lost is not measurable.
 
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