Metal Building/Garage/Shop

WoundUpMarine

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26' Duffy, 23' Seaway, 14' Holland

southshore30

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36 Northern Bay

Old Mud

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Ho Made

WoundUpMarine

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Cool Boat

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We were convinced by the builder to skip the covered overhang and so glad we did.
All of the space is inside (no shed overhang) and we don't get critters, humidity degradation, dirt, etc. It gives much more flexibility inside too. I'd take a serious look at the numbers. Our 4 year old building came out to 17$/sq ft for the building and slab. I did the electrical, radiant heat, and had insulators knock out the blown in upstairs (attic storage 16' x 60' with 9' tall clear trusses and 6" in walls. We put 1/2" plywood 4' up the side walls and 1/4" hollow white sign poly on the ceiling and upper walls. I would use that product for everything now, was under $6/sheet in bulk. I've done multiple radiant systems over the years and recall one expert noting to me that if you put a btu in the ground, it's going to come out eventually. We did not insulate our slab. On the schools we did over the years, we just did 3' on perimeter and inside face of foundation but doubt we got payback. SupplyHouse.com in NYC usually had the best price on PEX low oxygen tubing. I note that we used 6", 12", and 18" spacing in the three thirds (20'x40' each) depending on planned use, but honestly I can't really tell the difference if I'm laying on the vehicle area with 18" spacing. Still feels good. If you like it warm I'd go with 6" spacing and you still will not heat the slab over 60-65 degrees and be comfortable. With the recent jumps in lumber prices, I bet you could add a third to the 17$ base price if you go with wood trusses. Our cost completed was $25/sq ft. Also agree with the eves being long, we used 12" and wish I used 24". Our house is 30" and we love it. The only concern we have with ours is that the builder used absolutely terrible windows. I was too busy at the time to catch it and will have to add storms of some sort eventually.
 

scbob

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Jun 30, 2012
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Greenville, SC
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Provincial 42 "Spanish Wells"
Out in the Mid West I've worked with farmers that have huge combines with 40 foot wide headers. They have hanger style doors in their barns so they could drive combine straight in. Radiant heat in the floor, made the floor a huge heat sink and soon warmed the place up again when doors were shut.
Really cheap to put in the tubing. One day, when your situation changes, you can even hook it up to a waste oil heater, natural gas, even a woodburner.
Lots of folks trying to help you with good advice.
Bob
 

WoundUpMarine

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NoankTom

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Noank, Ct
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Tom
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Nauset and BHM
They've said they can put it on anything as long as it's level, slab, dirt, asphault. I'm debating on asphalt or a slab, depends on how I want to finish out my back parking area. I also need to wait and see how much money my wife as left over after we remodel the house....
[/QUOTE

Before they cast the concrete I would suggest a layer of heavy mil plastic to help ground moisture out, and seal the floor right away to slow the curing which will strengthen it.
 

WoundUpMarine

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26' Duffy, 23' Seaway, 14' Holland

Diesel Jerry

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WoundUpMarine

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26' Duffy, 23' Seaway, 14' Holland

xbskt

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Looks great John.
Thanks for taking good care of my skiff!:)
 
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