New here, and just to get it out of the way I do not own a boat built on the East side of the rockies, but everyone here is very knowledgeable and I have a little project which has some similarities to DE boats with full keel and single screw. So I am crossing the fingers that I can get some insight as a few days of browsing the site shows me the guys here are not afraid to tear into project, of any size. That and I couldn't find the oldNWgilnetterboatforum....
I'm repowering and at the same time going to drop the shaft log down about a degree to get some more prop room. The boat, called a Roberts is full keel hard chine NW built fish boat, has an existing aluminum shoe that bolts to the bottom of the keel and of course captures the bottom of the rudder. You won't find any glossy web sites with lots of specs and or fans following every move, more like a few of them for sale in SE Alaska looking like they got rode hard and put away.... To drop the shaft log down of course means more keel depth needed. I see most boats built on that side of the mountains have a integral (with the general hull) fiberglass shoe, but most boats I see over here in the NW have a bolt on shoe, either steel/stainless/alum/or composite shoe. Is there a distinct advantage one way or the other? Certainly the integral looks much sleeker, especially when in conjunction with a scalloped trailing edge to the keel. I know on my boat I can not pull the rudder unless the shoe is off because the rudder post extends into the hull about 12 inches and the top is captured in a fiberglass "chair" with bearing so it doesn't have any sideways action to get past the shoe for removing, it has to drop straight down.
So in adding more keel depth I was thinking of simply building down the existing keel and maybe just build long and incorporate an integral fiberglass shoe that won't need a zinc or anything special other than straight bottom paint. The trailing edge of the keel will need a lot of glass work to drop the shaft log, actually gets a whole new one, so building in a shoe won't be that much stretch of the overall scope.
i like metal, stainless, mostly because i spend a lot of time bumping bottom, and generally beating the crap out of the boat. you can put a bolt on tab on the end of the shoe with a hole in it to accept the rudder, like this thread here
That skegbar in the pics is 5/8 X 3" stainless bar, it is held to the keel by 3-5/8" carriage bolts with the nuts inside also through a 1' long stainless backing bar. The piece at the end is bronze and contains a 2" slice of cutlass bearing to accept the rudder shaft. It is held to the skegbar by 3- 3/8" carriage bolts. To drop the rudder turn it crosswise, remove the cutlass piece by turning it crosswise and down she goes.
I belive I looked at that post and that would likely work fine for me, I think I will likley extend the keel down further than that as my boat was handicapped at birth with a small prop, a 21" makes a racket on the hull side, but with a Detroit 653 screamin I'm not entirely sure all the noise was the prop. Any other known posts where people extended the keel deeper and lowered the shaft log? Picture of the old gal, she doesn't fish any more, purely recreation. Great site here by the way, lots of excellent knwoledge passing around, and lots of good looking boats.
I forgot to mention, in addition to rubber mounting the rudder shaft in a piece of cutlass bearing, a disk of rubber at the bottom of the piece of cutlass stops another annoyng rattle. Or, better yet, just leave it open on the bottom so it won't trap sand..