Nauset 35 Refit

[LuSea]

That's what we all wished for...lol

It’s been done twice with the same boat, same engine and gear, same prop diameter and pitch. Confidence is high ….

 

[LuSea]

Love the grand kids sign at the helm step up.. Boat looks great!

8 mini humans and the reason for a larger, slower boat.

 

[LuSea]

We spent this week installing compartment bulkheads under the cockpit to support the muffler. Finished the welding on the dry riser and dropped that off to be wrapped at Anchor. Cut, coped and installed the 3” floor beams . This week we install the perimeter 2” fiberglass angle to provide edge support for the Divinycell H80 deck, install rigging tubes and run the exhaust to the stern.

Raising the deck 3-3/4” was the ticket to achieving an exhaust that won’t exit below the waterline. We used the de- cored perimeter as a ledger for the lateral beams and posted the two main floor beams to the stringers. Bought these molded hatches a while back and am very pleased that we can now install hatch drains to the stern.

 

[LuSea]

03/28/23 update:

We've been busy filling old holes and making new as well well as installing the Divinycell H 80 deck. We templated and glassed the back side of the three panels with 1.5 CSM / 1708 / 1.5 CSM and a rolled on layer of waxed resin to prevent that never ending new boat smell from lurking below the cockpit floor. We prepped the hatches that we purchased from Wells Fiberglass and bonded them into the topside of the Divinycell with VE resin and putty and ran a fillet of hull end deck around the perimeter. Last night after cutting and fitting glass we literally burned the midnight oil to laminate the topside. Will hit the entire area with a skim of Poly-Fair this evening.

 

[Keelboater]

Love that video! How many gallons of resin did you burn through on the deck?

 

[Bill]

Looking good Tom !

 

[Genius]

cool video.

hat's off to your wife. That's some team work.

 

[Jjammer]

Looks awesome what was your layup on deck topsides in the vid? Kudo to your wife

 

[LuSea]

Looks awesome what was your layup on deck topsides in the vid? Kudo to your wife

Same as the bottom. I have the same layup schedule on the Flybridge floor. It seems very robust. If this was a work boat and there was the chance of dropping large heavy objects on the deck I would have used another alternating layer of 1708 and 1.5 CSM. And rubber floor mats.

 

[LuSea]

Love that video! How many gallons of resin did you burn through on the deck?

Not sure, I’ll have a look.

 

[xbskt]

Am I correct that it looks like you laid the H Beam where it landed in 5200 and screwed through the flange? Shimmed with coosa pieces to lock in the height? Can you bond coosa or glass directly to the H Beam? Epoxy needed maybe if yes?.
Thanks for posting.

 

[LuSea]

Am I correct that it looks like you laid the H Beam where it landed in 5200 and screwed through the flange? Shimmed with coosa pieces to lock in the height? Can you bond coosa or glass directly to the H Beam? Epoxy needed maybe if yes?.
Thanks for posting.

Correct. These boats have a cockpit liner that was an integral part of the cored floor. The layup at the transition is about 1/2” . The original floor was laid as one large panel atop this ledge. We used three inch wide ledge to support the ends of the lateral beams. The Coosa blocks raised the beams the additional 3/4” we needed. We ground everything and bedded the Coosa and the beam ends in 5200 , screwing thru the bottom flange to sandwich everything until the 5200 cured … 4 days later. We coped the other end of the lateral beams into the main beams and used 2” angle and 5200 bolted , to make these connections. We used epoxy ( Thixo) on a few of the remaining lateral beams around hatches because we could wait for the 5200 cure time. We bonded the glassed floor panels to the beams with thickened epoxy. The 5200 bond is super strong but the cure time is painfully slow. The beam manufacturer says 5200 is an acceptable bonding material and fantastic for vibration as long as the beams are bolted as well . They said abrading with 36 grit and cleaning the surface of dust were important steps in the success of the bond. If I had to do it again I’d probably go the same route because the Thixo bond is very strong but the 5200 is just so flexible.

 

[xbskt]

Correct. These boats have a cockpit liner that was an integral part of the cored floor. The layup at the transition is about 1/2” . The original floor was laid as one large panel atop this ledge. We used three inch wide ledge to support the ends of the lateral beams. The Coosa blocks raised the beams the additional 3/4” we needed. We ground everything and bedded the Coosa and the beam ends in 5200 , screwing thru the bottom flange to sandwich everything until the 5200 cured … 4 days later. We coped the other end of the lateral beams into the main beams and used 2” angle and 5200 bolted , to make these connections. We used epoxy ( Thixo) on a few of the remaining lateral beams around hatches because we could wait for the 5200 cure time. We bonded the glassed floor panels to the beams with thickened epoxy. The 5200 bond is super strong but the cure time is painfully slow. The beam manufacturer says 5200 is an acceptable bonding material and fantastic for vibration as long as the beams are bolted as well . They said abrading with 36 grit and cleaning the surface of dust were important steps in the success of the bond. If I had to do it again I’d probably go the same route because the Thixo bond is very strong but the 5200 is just so flexible.

Thanks for that. I am still waiting for fiberglass rectangle tube for my Tripp project. I have it in my head to use these to raise the deck (and scuppers) but was surprised when told that even though they are called fiberglass you can't just set them in hull and deck nor will they allow tabbing them in with polyester resin. Is that because they are not really fiberglass? I haven't really looked into it but will figure out which way will work best for me. Construction adhesive is a top contender because that is the world I come from but their are many ways to skin this cat.

 

[LuSea]

Thanks for that. I am still waiting for fiberglass rectangle tube for my Tripp project. I have it in my head to use these to raise the deck (and scuppers) but was surprised when told that even though they are called fiberglass you can't just set them in hull and deck nor will they allow tabbing them in with polyester resin. Is that because they are not really fiberglass? I haven't really looked into it but will figure out which way will work best for me. Construction adhesive is a top contender because that is the world I come from but their are many ways to skin this cat.

Ha yes!! Same here!
On the topic of bonding, I bonded a cabin ceiling light channel made from a fiberglass 2x4 rectangular tube split in half. Ground it well with 36 grit, primed with resin, bedded overhead with Mertons hull and deck and filleted immediately with the same. It runs the length of the cabin and definitely seems well bonded. For deck beams, coping, gluing and thru bolting seems to be the best. I’m sure PL Premium would work just as well on a Ground surface. Then there is always Plexus , at $65 per 400ml unit !

 

[LuSea]

4/9 Update:
- Old thru hulls have been patched.
- Faired the cockpit
- Built engine room intake and exhaust plenums with integrated fuel fills.
- Installed the sliders and windows for a test fit. To be removed for painting.
- cut and refit the Flybridge ladder
- added a teak header to retain the doors and a bit of nostalgic Nauset.

The butting ends of the sliders will have a bullnose interlocking teak astragal to accept the lock keeper and weatherstrip.

That’s it for the cockpit. On to the engine hatches and engine space!

 

[05bill]

4/9 Update:
- Old thru hulls have been patched.
- Faired the cockpit
- Built engine room intake and exhaust plenums with integrated fuel fills.
- Installed the sliders and windows for a test fit. To be removed for painting.
- cut and refit the Flybridge ladder
- added a teak header to retain the doors and a bit of nostalgic Nauset.

The butting ends of the sliders will have a bullnose interlocking teak astragal to accept the lock keeper and weatherstrip.

That’s it for the cockpit. On to the engine hatches and engine space!

View attachment 156236

View attachment 156237

View attachment 156238

amazing ! where did you get the hatches, i am assuming they were custom made ?

thanks

 

[LuSea]

Purchased from Wells Fiberglass:

HATCHES

Wells Fiberglass builds custom fiberglass hatch and gutters that used in boat renovation and upgrade projects. Choose from 6 standard sizes.

wells-fiberglass-llc.myshopify.com

 

[tunafishhkg]

Thanks for the terminology on the door build!! Can now ask for by name instead of "You know the thing"

 

[xbskt]

Thanks for the terminology on the door build!! Can now ask for by name instead of "You know the thing"

He's a cabinet guy. He loves a good astragal.

 

[Sleepwalker]

He's a cabinet guy. He loves a good astragal.

Word of the day.