Poly resin cold weather

Bill

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No experience glassing in the cold. I know it's not the best thing but guys do it. What are your experiences with cold weather glassing using resin? Not just short term in getting it to kick but long term blistering etc.. I want to stay away from epoxy but if it's the only way to go during the cold I will spend the extra $ to get work done..

2nd question.. Awlgrip over epoxy?(if primed properly)
 

Keelboater

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Anything below 50 degrees sucks for glassing. I had to use a heat lamp when I did the new motor beds on my boat. Everything worked out fine, but it took much longer than it should have. Same for gelcoat work. Unless it's a small job, I won't tackle it in cooler weather. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. No pun intended.
 

Bill

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Not sure of temps .. I do have a 125k btu heater , I'm fine for now but wondering about 40-50 degrees lets say..
 

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It will kick a little slower at that temp but it's all good. If you want to counteract the ambient temp increase the amount of catalyst a bit to get it where you want.
 

Bill

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Ok Roger.. thank you.. direct heat on curing surfaces or is that bad?
 

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If you use too much catalyst it will crystalize the resin and make a very weak laminate. If you heat it up too much via an external source you will achieve the same results. Mix both and you just might start a fire :(:(:(

A 60 watt incandescent bulb 1-2 feet away does wonders. Halogens are not your friend! Don't believe a word they say, they are brazen liars.
 
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Catalyst

Bill. Do you have a Catalyst/ resin chart. I can scan one from the Cooke Composite book if you need it. It is important to have a accurate catalyst measurement especially with colder weather
 

jwalka51

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Ok so how cold can you get away with doing some glass work without it going horribly wrong??? I am re-powering this winter and there will be some outdoor glassing needed. I would hate to have to wait till spring to finish the job and I really dont want to pay to have the boat put up in a climate controlled building.

Any advice from anyone????
 

steveinak

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I don't think you guys will be working in any temps colder than i did last winter, i tried to keep my shop around 50(outside was 0-10) and things seemed to work out ok. I did have to use some heat lamps to make it kick but it always did kick, looking back i think i needed to add more hardner just wanted to give myself plenty of working time.
 

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Outside, nut deep in the snow patching a few holes with chilly blasts of wind that must have come straight from Alaska. It can be done. But a royal pain in the wazoo. Try to stick with 40° F and above.
 

Bill

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Thanks for the responses guys.. I think ill do my best to get all work done in above 40-50 degree weather.. I'll find other projects on the boat to do when it colder than that, not looking to paint or do finish work , just the brunt of glassing work. Was looking to see if anyone had any "lessons" they have learned about glassing in the cold.. BoB.. Would love a copy of that if you have a minute you can email it to me @ [email protected] Thank you
 

Bill

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DERAKANE vinyl ester resin

Reading about glassing to old lamanites.. Guys on the cigarette boat forums ( who I respect their glassing and composite knowledge) say to reactivate old laminites using DERAKANE vinyl ester is a must.. The only place I can find it is on a airplane building website.. Any. Truth to this or am I overthinking again? I am in the midst of laying down core and am leaning towards laying a layer of mat down with this stuff before I lay in the new core.. I'm thinking of skipping the core and polybond and just wetting the shit out of the kerfs of the balsa with resin and laying in it to the new mat.. Read this thread

What is the best adhesive for putting in balsa core in Hydrostream Vector [Archive] - Scream And Fly Powerboat and High Performance Powerboating Discussion Forums
 

Game fisherman

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Resin cold weather

No experience glassing in the cold. I know it's not the best thing but guys do it. What are your experiences with cold weather glassing using resin? Not just short term in getting it to kick but long term blistering etc.. I want to stay away from epoxy but if it's the only way to go during the cold I will spend the extra $ to get work done..

2nd question.. Awlgrip over epoxy?(if primed properly)

Another good trick is to keep the resin in basement before you glass outside.
Even m.e.k. inside. Warm hull before you glass. Remember no open flame while glassing. I would get boat as warm as I could and shut off my salamander and glass. Good luck.
 

benenglish76

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Reading about glassing to old lamanites.. Guys on the cigarette boat forums ( who I respect their glassing and composite knowledge) say to reactivate old laminites using DERAKANE vinyl ester is a must.. The only place I can find it is on a airplane building website.. Any. Truth to this or am I overthinking again? I am in the midst of laying down core and am leaning towards laying a layer of mat down with this stuff before I lay in the new core.. I'm thinking of skipping the core and polybond and just wetting the shit out of the kerfs of the balsa with resin and laying in it to the new mat.. Read this thread


I'm unsure what The derakane resin has to do with reactivating old laminates. Derakane is a rubberized laminating system known for its uses in military spec parts. Laying core into wet mat is a viable way to go. Generally I'll double up on ounce and a half mat when I go that route. The more cushion the better.
 

jerseysportfisher

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My personal opinion is i dont like heat lamps. Doesnt equally warm the surface. I would rather tent up and use a forced hot air heater. You want the laminate temp as consistant as you can possible get it. I wont do this untill it drops below 50. Like mr travis said too much catalyst bad!. Resin manufacture will give you a good idea on ratio spec. Good luck
 

samhop

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bill
stop thinking and jest do it.
talk to your resin guy, about "winter resin" i believe its promoted a little more so it creates more heat when you add the emkp. glassing over 40F is no problem, store your resin indoors or in a vat with a 60w bulb so the resin wont get cold when your tent is not heated it will be fine.
 

Bill

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Bill; I'm unsure what The derakane resin has to do with reactivating old laminates. Derakane is a rubberized laminating system known for its uses in military spec parts. Laying core into wet mat is a viable way to go. Generally I'll double up on ounce and a half mat when I go that route. The more cushion the better.[/QUOTE said:
Not sure either, when I see people talk about something with conviction I pay attention which is why I asked you guys... I'm headed the straighup GP resin way 2 layers of Mat , no bonding compund thanks for input..

My personal opinion is i dont like heat lamps. Doesnt equally warm the surface. I would rather tent up and use a forced hot air heater. You want the laminate temp as consistant as you can possible get it. I wont do this untill it drops below 50. Like mr travis said too much catalyst bad!. Resin manufacture will give you a good idea on ratio spec. Good luck

I got the tent and 125k btu heater set up I am thinking its gonna be able to heat it right up..

bill
stop thinking and jest do it.
talk to your resin guy, about "winter resin" i believe its promoted a little more so it creates more heat when you add the emkp. glassing over 40F is no problem, store your resin indoors or in a vat with a 60w bulb so the resin wont get cold when your tent is not heated it will be fine.

Thanks Sam I'll talk to Merton about cold weather stuff .. I still got a few days to think about it as I got another day or two of cutting the old core out. I'm gonna order everything Monday.. It's really a simple thing but I'm looking at all aspects of bonding before I do it cause once it's down its down and I'm never ever gonna take balsa out of a boat again.
 
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