Racor Fuel Filter Location In Cockpit Instead of Bilge?

Discussion in 'Downeast Engine Room' started by Keelboater, Mar 28, 2019.

  1. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    I'm planning ahead a little bit and was thinking of locating the dual Racor set up inside a future secondary steering station cabinet located on the back of the house. It would make filter access and maintenance so much easier. My only concern is available vacuum at the filter with the increased elevation compared with the usual bilge location. I'm thinking it will be fine but I'm wondering if anyone has done this or something similar on their boat? I can mount the filters in the bilge if need be, but my old bones prefer easy access for filter changes.
     
  2. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    I have not but would worry more about priming/filling or fuel running back to the tank when changing filters more than the vacuum I think. I bought one of those primer bulb setups with the valves from Seaboard but never installed it so might be what you need down near the tank (check valve/priming bulb/bypass valves). Ha, didnt plan to make this post an ad for some shit in my garage but look at that!
     
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  3. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    Ha ha. I agree with the need of a priming device and back flow prevention. It just seems to me that changing filters out on the deck would make life much easier and cleaner......not to mention the lack of contortion-ism involved. Also, the hatch in the wheel house does not have to be opened up to do a quick inspection while under way. Send me a pic of this device and we'll talk. :cool: If I feel comfortable going this route it might be exactly what I need. Thanks!
     
  4. WoundUpMarine

    WoundUpMarine Captain

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    If you're worried about vacuum just up the size if your fuel lines. That should take care of anything you're worried about. Racor's have that little ball check valve in them that "should" prevent and flow back to the tanks. You can also put a ball valve on the inlet to the filter unit to further ensure no fuel flows back to the tank when you open the filters to change a cartridge.
     
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  5. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    I like having them below the tanks. It makes filling them easy when doing filter changes. I usually leave the top off and crack the inlet valve to top off. It is also useful in finding leaks. If they are that high, you may just suck air? Checking for water in the bowl would be easier if it was up high.
     
  6. Blitzen

    Blitzen Captain

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    You should be fine as long as the inlet and outlet of the filter don't exceed 5 feet above the fuel tank or 4 inHg on the inlet.
     
  7. TCL

    TCL Senior Member

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    You should have a ball valve at the tank. Just close it when you do filter changes.
     
    TCL,
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  8. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    I just crunched the numbers and everything is well below anything critical. I think I'm going to try this concept using the ball valve and primer. If I have a problem with it I can always move the filter assembly below. The plan is to mount the filter assembly on a door below the cockpit helm that swings out over the deck for very easy access. It sounds too easy actually. That's why I have some concern. ;) We all know how that works. For initial testing I will just mount the filter assembly to the "soon to be old" house wall. When I'm satisfied, it will eventually be hidden below the future helm nice and neat. This season it will be a temporary test arrangement. Thanks for the feed back guys. I'll be sure to report back on how it all works out.
     
  9. JimRP31

    JimRP31 Captain

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    Last winter I added valves on both sides of my Racor to make changing filter easier. I like the concept. Could you post picture when you are done.
     
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  10. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    Yes, I will post a few pictures. I should have a good feel for things by mid June if all goes well.
     
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  11. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    Squeeze Bulb Priming Kit - Seaboard Marine

    This is the kit. 3 valves that allow you to plumb in a priming bulb and close it out when under normal operation. I was incorrect though there is no check valve in the system. I initially bought it because my 3116’s don’t have priming pumps but I just fill the filters with a gallon jug and live with it. Been too lazy to install it...

    Seems like a good idea though if you are starting from scratch to get you out of carrying that jug..
     
  12. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    So I took a road trip down to visit Toolate and pick up this recommended fuel primer kit:

    IMG_3472.JPG

    ............and ended up coming home with all of this and more! :):):)

    IMG_3474.JPG

    Thank you very much for the donations Ben! I will put whatever I can to good use, and be sure to find a good home for those items that are left over.
    Weeding through some of those boxes put a big smile on my face this afternoon! FYI - those old small mushroom anchors already found a home with the grand kids for their crab traps. :cool: Thank you again Toolate, and thank you Downeast Boat Forum! I have met some fantastic people on this forum thanks to Bill and all of his hard work. :)
     
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  13. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    Wow!
     
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  14. Door#3

    Door#3 Member

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    The main reason for putting in a dual Racor system is so that you don't have to go below to change a clogged filter in seas, you just turn the lever. I think you are over complicating a simple system.

    Tank ===> dual racor 500 or 900 with 10 micron filters ===> last chance filter.

    If you really want to make your system fool proof you can go 30 micron to 10 micron to last chance, all below decks. There are all kinds of ways you can configure that to give you serious redundancy without having to fight gravity.
     
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  15. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    Yes I agree with what you say except the one thing you failed to mention - I am the one who must service the filters periodically. I'm planning ahead for ease of service rather than just a standard filter installation. Projecting forward for the next 10 years or so, fighting gravity will become much easier than fighting with myself in the bilge every time I have to change filters. :D
     
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  16. Prime Time II

    Prime Time II Member

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    As we all get older we have to think about these things . Nothing wrong with making things easier !
     
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  17. GypsyJon

    GypsyJon Member

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    I just sold an Atlas Acadia 32 with Yanmar 6LYA-UTE engine. The racor and fuel manifold are in a box behind the pilot house in the cockpit. It is SO easy to change and check that Racor that I would have it no other way. It is no problem getting it primed after changes and a whole lot easier sitting on a 5 gallon bucket to do the work then standing on your head down in the bilge.
     
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  18. captjohn

    captjohn Captain

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    Most manufacturers recommend the Racors be 30 microns, not 10, they create too much restriction in the system, which can effect the supply pump. I remember attending a training class from Caterpillar a few years ago, they had Field Engineers giving it. They were VERY specific, no more than 30 micron filters in the Racors. This is not a case where more is better.
     
  19. Blitzen

    Blitzen Captain

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    Please explain? If a filter unit and element are oversized for a given application meaning the filter is capable of more gph through put than the engine requires how is reducing the element size a problem? I understand the concept of starving the injection pump of fuel and the problems it can cause but in my mind it would be no different than a clogged 30 micron element with a smaller filter unit.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2019 at 5:56 PM
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  20. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    That makes no sense to me. Just go by the vacuum gauge and it will be fine.

    If you have bad tanks, use a 30 micron till you sort it out. After it gets cleared up, go to 10 micron.
     

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