Re-bedding deck hardware question

jrg

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What's everyone using to rebed deck hardware? :confused: I have some rail stanchions that are leaking into the cabin and a cleat that's leaking into an aft locker. Should be a quick spring project, but looking for some guidance. Thanks.
 

tonysmjc

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Still a fan of 4200/5200

I just recently pulled all the deck hardware off
My boat
And after 17 years not a drop of moisture
Under any cleat or fair lead

So input it back on the same way
 

osprey47

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Before rebedding, I would check the coring around the bolt holes. You are likely to find saturation and if so, you should consider using drill w/ bent nail to clear out the rot. Fill with epoxy and when it has set drill out the hole. Consider using butyl rubber as your sealant.
 

marktore

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Northport, NY
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Allied 20’ Fisherman
I am dealing with the same issues and plan on starting this work next weekend. Any recommendations for loosening up 5200, 4200, etc... I am planning to use boat life for re-fitting, thoughts.

Opsrey... thanks for the nail idea.

Thanks!

MT
 

BillD

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Before rebedding, I would check the coring around the bolt holes. You are likely to find saturation and if so, you should consider using drill w/ bent nail to clear out the rot. Fill with epoxy and when it has set drill out the hole. Consider using butyl rubber as your sealant.

I swiss cheesed the top of my T Jason existing 1/4,20 holes with a 1" hole saw NOT drilling through the bottom hole.

Scraped out all the dead/dissolved balsa...most was dry...and will fill with hull & deck or a resin/cabosil/chopped glass concoction filling in under the lip and re-drill for hardware, antennas, radar stuff etc.

FWIW
 

marktore

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I swiss cheesed the top of my T Jason existing 1/4,20 holes with a 1" hole saw NOT drilling through the bottom hole.

Scraped out all the dead/dissolved balsa...most was dry...and will fill with hull & deck or a resin/cabosil/chopped glass concoction filling in under the lip and re-drill for hardware, antennas, radar stuff etc.

FWIW

Bill. I friend of mine that was working on a fiberglass headboat for sometime recommended using Evercoat Kitty Hair as the filler... I am planning to give it a try...

MT
 

twister

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Goof off works very well at taking up 5200. Once cured soak a rag and let it sit on it before you start rubbing it comes off but takes a bit of time to get it all. It works great for clean up on new installations too.
 

oldshell55

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new york
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BHM36 , 38’ young bros ,
butyl tape

Before rebedding, I would check the coring around the bolt holes. You are likely to find saturation and if so, you should consider using drill w/ bent nail to clear out the rot. Fill with epoxy and when it has set drill out the hole. Consider using butyl rubber as your sealant.

I don't use epoxy, use H/D putty, but am a huge fan of Butyl tape, seals anything , stays soft forever, does not dry out ,tested by me after 25 years removed windows and it was like the day I put it in. Also, it comes in a roll, what you don't use just put it on the shelf come back whenever and use what you need, try that with a tube of any caulking and it's not messy ! Best ever
 
Last edited:

pyrofan

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wilcox and midland
I am dealing with the same issues and plan on starting this work next weekend. Any recommendations for loosening up 5200, 4200, etc... I am planning to use boat life for re-fitting, thoughts.

Opsrey... thanks for the nail idea.

Thanks!

MT


3M 5200 has a tendency to really bond well to a properly prepared surface. I usually use a heat gun set on low to warm the article being removed. When the sealant becomes a little pliable, use a nice thin fillet knife to slice the sealant as you're prying it up.

Clean up the area after removal by using the heat gun and a fairly wide sharp wood chisel.

A hair dryer will work but just takes a little more time.
 

captainlarry84

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Freeport NY
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KristenFormer Charter Captain
Before rebedding, I would check the coring around the bolt holes. You are likely to find saturation and if so, you should consider using drill w/ bent nail to clear out the rot. Fill with epoxy and when it has set drill out the hole. Consider using butyl rubber as your sealant.
Excellent advice. That coring is wet for sure. I use an allen key as apposed to a bent nail. The sharp edges of the allen key make short work of the core. Once decored tape the inside of the one and pack the old hole with H&D putty, pushing it into the void. Re bed I am a 5200 man.
 

jrg

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Portland, ME
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Eastern 24
I am dealing with the same issues and plan on starting this work next weekend. Any recommendations for loosening up 5200, 4200, etc... I am planning to use boat life for re-fitting, thoughts.

Opsrey... thanks for the nail idea.

Thanks!

MT

I removed a ton of old, nasty 4200 from the tops of my fish boxes last year, this stuff works great - DeBond. Scraping that crap off was a bear and I was almost ready to give up when I found it at Hamilton Marine. Worth every penny!
Good luck!
 

1oldbuzzard

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Re bedding deck hardware

Marine De bond is a superb product..with a descriptive name..takes the grunt out of 4200& 5200 removal.no heat ,no chisels..clean up with denatured alcohol.
If you plan to use 5200 again ,BE SURE to get rid of alcohol residue because it's presence impedes proper cure of most polysulfudes.
As for bedding,Although I've never tried it,butyl tape sounds like something that works well for a soft bedding that stays soft.
 
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