Shamrock Boats

[Eastporter]

I know these aren't true DE boats, but I'm curious how they run. Has anyone been on a Shamrock? What are your opinions about the "Keel Drive"?

Shamrock Sport Fishing Boats

 

[benenglish76]

We have a shamrock in our service department at the moment....i havent been impressed with some of the building methods they employed, but it is an older model. Goes like hell i was told though.

 

[El Mar]

Google Bo Palmer and Shamrock boats.

You'll read for hours about the shoddy craftsmanship and people that company screwed over.

I wouldn't buy one, especially a newer one, even though they are out of business.

Defiance boats is the new Palmer Company, another one to stay away from.

 

[jawz]

Google Bo Palmer and Shamrock boats.

You'll read for hours about the shoddy craftsmanship and people that company screwed over.

I wouldn't buy one, especially a newer one, even though they are out of business.

Defiance boats is the new Palmer Company, another one to stay away from.

you can say that again - i repaired one,it was seriously "f'd" up ! got plenty of pictures to back it all up too - hull thickness of less than a 1/4" - real quality there...

call bladen county dept of buisness - they'll give you a real true story of palmer,and what he did...bladen county north carolina..."bladen's bloomin' "

 

[Pedlyr]

Well I guess I'll poke the beehive with a stick here.

All of the above is true to a degree. Especially with the Palmer boats.
Shamrocks are slow and wet.

But I've owned (2) older 20' Shamrocks and lov 'em. a Walkthru and a Cuddy. I can work on it myself. I've owned outboards before and would rather have the inboard and keel.

 

[jerseysportfisher]

Fished a 26 for a few years, even survived some canyon trips on it. THe boat itself is a POS. Its got to be one of the wettest bastards I have ever been on. Ride is ok in the slop. Excels on the drift with a flat bottom and hard chine. Extremely narrow, and the engine box takes up a hell of alot of room

 

[harborguy]

i owened a 1998 20 ft and can say that they where built like crap, but i had the boat for 5 years used the boat mostly in the winter 350 hours a year, it was in the water year round and sold it for the same money i paid for it.they maybe built like crap but there is a cult following that will will pay for them. and i must say very wet boat but awsome to turn the heat on and not care

 

[El Mar]

They do have the "look", which I think appeals to alot of people.

 

[Eastporter]

Wow! I would never buy one, especially after reading those reviews. Thanks for keeping it real. TGIF!

 

[Capt B]

FishTheClassic.net

Here is the web site for the Shamrock Owners - anything and everything you ever wanted to know about them

 

[jawz]

FishTheClassic.net

Here is the web site for the Shamrock Owners - anything and everything you ever wanted to know about them

that' a dangerous place - lot's of "back yard engineering" suggested -
here's a classic piece of advice given by a member - "his way of repairing a thru hull he was going to remove from his boat,was to use a carrage bolt - with a large washer,fill the hole with 3m5200,install another flat washer,followed by a nut - i kid you not !" imagine that ? this guy was serious too !


here's more:a moderator on that site - a gentleman who believes he has a vast and unlimited knowledge,he had this to say previous about using tinned marine grade wire "no solder dipped marine wire for me",same gentleman who made a claim concerning epoxy and polyester resins - claimed his stringers were filled with an epoxy,but the fumes were terrible - epoxy has no noxious fumes,clearly his vast knowledge of fiberglass isn't very vast at all - his knowledge of electrical systems is even less...

still more:
this is advice given by a member to another member,to "jury rig" his leaking oil pan:

"How to salvage your season assuming the leak is from the oil pan…
Sorry to hear about the oil leak. Here is what I did to buy time so an oil pan leak could be repaired during the off season:

1. Removed the drain hose (if you have one) which is notorious for leaking depending upon the brand. (Also gave me a fresh oil change for the season.) Installed an automotive style drain plug (with same threads) and cleaned the bottom with acetone to get to the paint. Next covered the leak area of the pan, which was just below the drain plug, with a two-part gas tank repair epoxy, which can be found at any automotive parts house.

2. By cutting, lowered the sides of a plastic dishpan and suspended it under the oil pan with bungee cords. This trapped the oil allowing it to be dumped later. Bilge stayed perfectly clean and thus bilge pump never pumped oil overboard.


If the above procedure works for you, and another oil change is needed the oil can be sucked out through the dip stick. Fairly normal procedure, especially for older marine engines. "


there's more:

gentleman has a fuel contamination problem - here's a suggestion of how to dispose of the old contaminated fuel

"For air cooled engines I would blend with 89-87 not 93. I would put it in my sprayer and use it like round up myself. "
Last edited by Foxhole; Today at 11:28 AM.

still more:

here's a gentleman,his ship was beached - it filled with water - the gear,as in transmission was submerged - this gentleman's advice is,as follows...

"Pull the starter and flush it out good and you'll save yourself 100 bucks. Get the engine hot and then change the oil and change the tranny oil again. Flush the electronics with fresh water and spray with WD-40 or something that displaces water. Assuming you clean everything with soap and water, you should be good to go. Check to make sure no water got into you gas tanks.If the vents were still above water, you should be ok. The starter won't die fast but the salt is a slow killer."

"flush the starter" ? it was submerged,in sea water,you're kidding,right ? there's a reason insurance companies pay out on submersion claims,it's because there's a problem with it,things will need to be replaced - due to submersion..."save 100 bucks",yep,more good advice...


the all time best advice is :

fill the pin holes and corroded spots of your aluminum fuel tank - fill those holes with marine tex,then wrap the tank in fiberglass matting - polyester resin - one member actually stated his insurance company asked him to do this...


now,after reading all what i typed above,and trust me,there's lot's more - just read that site,would anyone put anything anyone on that site stated to the test ?
there's even a guy on that site,he operates a tow boat service ,and makes the clairm he's a marine surveyor - claims to be an expert - same guy didn't know a 1.88:1 borg warner gear had an opposite shaft rotation as the input shaft - again,imagine that... i would sooner ask a preschool class for advice on a boat,versus asking anyone on that site - the level of stupidity and disregard for common sense is staggering...

 

[jerseysportfisher]

Boat Review by David Pascoe :  Shamrock 26

 

[Hooper]

that' a dangerous place - lot's of "back yard engineering" suggested -
here's a classic piece of advice given by a member - "his way of repairing a thru hull he was going to remove from his boat,was to use a carrage bolt - with a large washer,fill the hole with 3m5200,install another flat washer,followed by a nut - i kid you not !" imagine that ? this guy was serious too !


here's more:a moderator on that site - a gentleman who believes he has a vast and unlimited knowledge,he had this to say previous about using tinned marine grade wire "no solder dipped marine wire for me",same gentleman who made a claim concerning epoxy and polyester resins - claimed his stringers were filled with an epoxy,but the fumes were terrible - epoxy has no noxious fumes,clearly his vast knowledge of fiberglass isn't very vast at all - his knowledge of electrical systems is even less...

still more:
this is advice given by a member to another member,to "jury rig" his leaking oil pan:

"How to salvage your season assuming the leak is from the oil pan…
Sorry to hear about the oil leak. Here is what I did to buy time so an oil pan leak could be repaired during the off season:

1. Removed the drain hose (if you have one) which is notorious for leaking depending upon the brand. (Also gave me a fresh oil change for the season.) Installed an automotive style drain plug (with same threads) and cleaned the bottom with acetone to get to the paint. Next covered the leak area of the pan, which was just below the drain plug, with a two-part gas tank repair epoxy, which can be found at any automotive parts house.

2. By cutting, lowered the sides of a plastic dishpan and suspended it under the oil pan with bungee cords. This trapped the oil allowing it to be dumped later. Bilge stayed perfectly clean and thus bilge pump never pumped oil overboard.


If the above procedure works for you, and another oil change is needed the oil can be sucked out through the dip stick. Fairly normal procedure, especially for older marine engines. "


there's more:

gentleman has a fuel contamination problem - here's a suggestion of how to dispose of the old contaminated fuel

"For air cooled engines I would blend with 89-87 not 93. I would put it in my sprayer and use it like round up myself. "
Last edited by Foxhole; Today at 11:28 AM.

still more:

here's a gentleman,his ship was beached - it filled with water - the gear,as in transmission was submerged - this gentleman's advice is,as follows...

"Pull the starter and flush it out good and you'll save yourself 100 bucks. Get the engine hot and then change the oil and change the tranny oil again. Flush the electronics with fresh water and spray with WD-40 or something that displaces water. Assuming you clean everything with soap and water, you should be good to go. Check to make sure no water got into you gas tanks.If the vents were still above water, you should be ok. The starter won't die fast but the salt is a slow killer."

"flush the starter" ? it was submerged,in sea water,you're kidding,right ? there's a reason insurance companies pay out on submersion claims,it's because there's a problem with it,things will need to be replaced - due to submersion..."save 100 bucks",yep,more good advice...


the all time best advice is :

fill the pin holes and corroded spots of your aluminum fuel tank - fill those holes with marine tex,then wrap the tank in fiberglass matting - polyester resin - one member actually stated his insurance company asked him to do this...


now,after reading all what i typed above,and trust me,there's lot's more - just read that site,would anyone put anything anyone on that site stated to the test ?
there's even a guy on that site,he operates a tow boat service ,and makes the clairm he's a marine surveyor - claims to be an expert - same guy didn't know a 1.88:1 borg warner gear had an opposite shaft rotation as the input shaft - again,imagine that... i would sooner ask a preschool class for advice on a boat,versus asking anyone on that site - the level of stupidity and disregard for common sense is staggering...

Now that was a good read!

 

[Tower Todd]

I work part time for Vessel Assist in Puget Sound and they have several 26 Pilothouse models. The one I run is a 1988 or 87 and if I could sum it up in one word it would be: WET. If I look at a ripple on the water the wrong way spray will fly onto the windows. It is in desperate need of spray rails. Much of what Pascoe said is true with the thin hull walls, etc. The one I have has spongy decks and all kinds of water related issues, but it keeps on ticking and is a great little tow boat. Ours is supposedly a pretty rare model of 26 pilothouse with a Cummins 210HP. Overall it does a great job in Puget Sound and many of the problems the boat has are not the boats fault (many previous operators - left their mark).

As for Palmer and Bo Palmer, I know him personally. He sponsors several fishing tournaments here in WA and has one of the best tackle shops in the state. I'm not sure what year he bought Shamrock, but it was definatley later and the newer style boats were around the period when he took over. I don't know much about what happened in NC with the closing of the plants, but I know they tried really hard to keep everything going. The straw that broke the back was taking on the Albins. It was too much when the economy nose dived (they had Shamrock, Defiance and Albin). Out West here the Defiance boats are selling very well. They are a price boat with lots of nice features for the price, but are not the top of the line. That works for many of their buyers. They have a good reputation out here.

Hopefully this info helps.

Todd

 

[El Mar]

I have no first hand knowledge of defiance but have read they are cheaply made and very unstable. Mainly on BD. com.

 

[Tower Todd]

I've never heard of the unstable complaint. I've heard of some issues on certain models of the decks being right at the waterline so water can enter the scuppers and wash the rear part of the deck. This is common during halibut season when we have to back into the drift to keep our lines vertical while dropping 400-800'.

The boats are built with a hull and cap, no liner in the cabin. Personally, The biggest downside to them for me is the small fish boxes on some and they could spend some more time fininshing them. The price would most certainly reflect the extra and I think they have been having really great sales with the product they are offering. I know they have been selling a whole bunch of 22's. I have heard of a couple of complaints about how the boat was rigged like electronics poorly connected, etc. but it has been pretty rare.

There are quite a few Definace owners on the BD Washington site. If you are interested, there are lots of previous posts and owners that would be willing to share their views.

TT

 

[benenglish76]

Tons of open cell foam in these vessels too i am finding out...in some very wrong spots too. Im not sure if it was a botched repair attempt or not, but the engine bed stringers are quite certainly filled with blow in foam. First glance, it would appear it was just low density closed cell foam used in the laminate, but the consistency of the material just wasnt right to be closed cell, even if it was soaked. My theory is the plywood rotted, and someone had a bright idea to yard it all out and blow in foam, doing a poor glassing job as well. Just a personal testament i thought i would share with everyone, maybe nothin to do with the company, but probably with those lost souls who contribute to the Shamrock Forum. (oh, and at some point, someone sprayed Imron, the auto body paint, over the entire boat. I mean entire. Deck's non-skid and cockpit soles non-skid. Anyone ever tried to walk on wet non-skid filled with 2 part finish paint? Non-skid no more. Absolute Bitch.)

 

[bird67]

Sorry to be a newb starting off in a contradictory fashion, but I like my 22' Shamrock Predator quite a bit. As someone pointed about above, she is a looker and I like that. I know of several owners who have had their Shamrocks of similar vintage as mine for quite some time, in one case an original owner of a 1990, and they have all had good experiences with them.

I understand though that this thread is part of the 25' plus category where the comparables are quite different.