Should I replace these seacocks?

Toolate

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Should I replace these? No idea how old they are but they all operate smoothly and are reasonably accessible if I ever did. No leaks.

Head discharged through larger one and it looks like the hose was glued over the threads on it. Plus it is about 6" from the raw water intake for the head. Early "recycling" I guess because the boat really smelled like shit. :eek:

My stand is no unless someone talks me out of it.

image.jpg
 

Toolate

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Clean those poor jewels up and have a gander what's under the green.

You mean cracks, corroded threads, etc? Thinking of gentle brass bristle wire brushing but suspect they are good as far as that goes. Any specific concerns?

Boat is new to me and most of the smell is gone (started by removing any and every pipe/the head/ holding tank and cleaning with bleach) but still more to do. Red hair all over everything too haha:confused:
 

Toolate

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Buck Algonquin

Says so on the rubber sleeve on the handle- Sounds like unless I see any issues when cleaning them I can leave them. Will check in when they are cleaned up.
 

Keelboater

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Beware of the fasteners because they go through the hull. The ones on my boat were pretty bad, and very well hidden under the bottom paint. Two of them were about to lose the heads because the body of the bolts were so corroded. Doesn't take much to sink a boat out on a mooring. You just had your bottom blasted, so you should be able to do a good inspection. You may even want to replace the fasteners even if the seacocks are good. I suppose mine were overdue at 33 years old.
 

Sailorgp

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at a minimum you should remove them from the hull, carefully inspect, check the surrounding area for core damage if your hull is cored...then reinstall. Remember, your family will depend on the reliability of these fittings.
 

Toolate

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at a minimum you should remove them from the hull, carefully inspect, check the surrounding area for core damage if your hull is cored...then reinstall. Remember, your family will depend on the reliability of these fittings.

Definitely going to do that so I can paint the bilge nicely so will get a good look at the hardware when doing so.

Any tricks to softening up the bedding goop after 30 years? Just heat from the heat gun? The few things I have removed from the boat are very well bedded and almost impossible to remove even after the hardware is gone.

Also, I had the boat surveyed and there was only one wet section (slightly) found but I think I would like to check her over with a moisture meter again now that the bottom paint is gone and she has been sitting on the hard for a month. Source for a cheap but halfway decent moisture meter?
 

cb34

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smell

Pull it all out and plug it, go with a bucket and you will never deal with that smell again.
 

Toolate

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I like to have a head though. Cant blame it all on the wife. It can be done and not stink to high heaven too. Bucket certainly would save some time and energy!
 

F/V First Team

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Save yourself some major effort and just cut the external flange off on your thru-hull fitting and pull it out from inside. Then you can just take a cold chisel and a hammer and pop out the rest of the threads. If the seacock withstands this and you give it a fantastic visual inspection you can simply get a new thru-hull fitting and reassemble everything. If you do need to replace the seacocks it's nice to know what make it is (since I'm a name-dropper) that way you can just get it off the shelf and use the same holes instead of having to repair and cut new ones.

So there's that.

Power tools > hard work by hand.
 

Bawugna

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A pretty knowledable friend of mine told me years ago, not to put bleach in a marine head because it will break down some of the rubber that the hoses are made of and you will get that nasty smell. My boat had it when I bought it....open any area in the bilge and you were hit in the face with that.....that....well you know smell. I replaced all of the hoses and have never used anything but marine specific products and have not had that smell in 15 years.

Sorry for the gear shift :rolleyes:
 

chortle

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That green can often be a signal of corrosion from electrolysis so I would take a good look at the inside of the bonding wires and the wires in the distribution panel. Are the wires green and corroded under the plastic jacket and are the connections at the distribution panel also green and fuzzy? Look for pitting or cracks in the solid bronze pieces. How does the prop and other underwater metal look? What did the surveyor say?
 

Toolate

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Power tools > hard work by hand.

I agree 100% and have no sentimental attachment to the seacocks but they are expensive. What brand would you recommend if I did just hack them off and go new?
 

Toolate

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That green can often be a signal of corrosion from electrolysis so I would take a good look at the inside of the bonding wires and the wires in the distribution panel. Are the wires green and corroded under the plastic jacket and are the connections at the distribution panel also green and fuzzy? Look for pitting or cracks in the solid bronze pieces. How does the prop and other underwater metal look? What did the surveyor say?

Bonding wires are all going to be replaced and have not looked inside it but it is all connected with automotive crimp connectors so I would imagine the ends are a little green. The rest of the underwater metal looks decent- not eaten away or anything. Surveyor schmurveyor. haha.
 

captainlarry84

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I see that they were bonded. Therefore I would remove them & clean them with On Off Hull cleaner. If they are true bronze marine units re-install them. If they are Home depot bass ball valves replace them.
 
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