SISU Rub Rail Installation

[JimRP31]

Late last summer I got hit and the rub rails cracked. The rails were probably original so it is time to replace them. I am picking up new rigid rails from Barbour next week. I was going to use Sikaflex adhesive and attach them with screws. Below is my approach. If I am missing anything let me know.

1) Remove old adhesive and sand off high spots
2) Fill existing holes and low spot with West SIX10
3) Sand/fair edge and fill any remaining low spots with SIX10
4) Prime and paint edge to match paint from last years project
5) Layout rub rail and drill holes every 18"
6) Center 1st rub rail on the bow, apply Sikaflex, drill pilot holes though rail and screw down, repeat until rail is attached.
7) Follow the same process for the side. I am unsure if I should start at the stern or on the side. The corner as the stern will be a tough bend. Advise on this would be appreciated.

I don't think I have missed anything but I am open to ideas.

 

[BOSBoatMan]

Why are you going to fill holes and fair with the SIX10? It'll be more than a bitch to sand down. Why don't you use 407 or something...?

 

[traditions]

When installing rails,I dry fit the rail before using any sealant.It makes for a neater job with less cleanup,and when you drill thru rails a lot of times the drilled material piles up between the rail and hull.

 

[JimRP31]

BOSBoatMan, I agree with your thought, so called Gougeon Bros and they said I can smooth the Six10 out easier than the 407. Much like applying spackle since it has more elasticity than 407. Should give me a fairly smooth finish that will not require a lot of sanding. I will let you know it turns out.

Traditions. I was planning on setting up a jig on my Drill Press to pre-drill the rails and then drilling small pilot holes in the hull deck joint. My only questions is does you or anyone else have a good method to hold the rails in place while I dry fit and drill the pilot holes.

 

[33youngbrothers]

My only questions is does you or anyone else have a good method to hold the rails in place while I dry fit and drill the pilot holes.

Get a 12 pack and invite some friends over

 

[JimRP31]

Thanks, with my friend it would need to be a case +

 

[Toolate]

Bumping an old thread. I have to install a rub rail and thought I would ask how it went JK? Also need some advice on how to handle the corners and bow bends. Rail has a hard plastic piece molded into it and its going to be a bitch to bend even with heat I think the lip on top will fold upwards

Did you bed the whole rail in Sika or just a bead down the side of the boat to hold it? Mine is black semi rigid from Barbour. Going to try to attach pic of it.

Also have existing holes in the boat I would like to re-use from the old #12 or #14 screws.

This is the rail Item Number: 62160/F758

Was going to start by laying the rail on hot driveway for an hour or so, cleaning hull/deck joint and caulking with Sika or Sudbury stuff Travis recommends (great stuff but running out) heating and creating a bend for the bow, and starting there with the idea that I could end with a joint on the center of the transom or miters at corners.

Then work my way back. Have a friend hold tension while I drill and screw a few feet at a time using a bead of caulk at top and bottom of the rail so its really held down.

Is this too much caulk? Tips for corners? Would love some help and maybe apicture of a corner someone has done with the lip over the deck.

 

[F/V First Team]

That stuff should be pretty easy to bend an do everything to, heat always helps (those of us without any asphalt can do the same with a large black trash bag tied off in the sun, just try to get all the air out of it first). I assume you're going to attempt to do it one-piece, in which case you might want to think about how you're going to support the ends as you start at the bow and work your way down one side. Might as well go down the entire side and halt about six to twelve inches from the ends, then after you do your other side you can work the transom together (a heat gun on the back side will help you form it around the corner, you hold it back so you can hold it away from the boat as you heat and form it (I like to go from the backside, that way if there's and oopsiedoodle it's hidden), once you have your corner the way you like it, put that beast on with a good shot of sealant and work your transom pieces together, letting them overlap as you come to the center. Go about a foot at a time to keep it nice and even. You should be able to butt them together nice and easy, just keep trimming them little by little as they come together so you have enough to grip and manipulate.

 

[JimRP31]

Rails

Bumping an old thread. I have to install a rub rail and thought I would ask how it went JK? Also need some advice on how to handle the corners and bow bends. Rail has a hard plastic piece molded into it and its going to be a bitch to bend even with heat I think the lip on top will fold upwards With a heat gun you should not have any problem bending the rail.

Did you bed the whole rail in Sika or just a bead down the side of the boat to hold it? I ran a heavy bead of Black Sika on the rail 2-3 feet at time before I screwed it on. Mine is black semi rigid from Barbour. Going to try to attach pic of it.

Also have existing holes in the boat I would like to re-use from the old #12 or #14 screws. I would fill in the old holes. Getting them to line up will be tougher than it sounds. Plus you can smooth out the edge if there are any cracks etc. I used West Six10 and it worked very well.

This is the rail Item Number: 62160/F758

Was going to start by laying the rail on hot driveway for an hour or so, cleaning hull/deck joint and caulking with Sika or Sudbury stuff Travis recommends (great stuff but running out) heating and creating a bend for the bow, and starting there with the idea that I could end with a joint on the center of the transom or miters at corners. Center your bow rail on the boat and mark the center. You do not want to drill a whole at the center since it will open up when you bent it. Make a mark 8" from the center on either side. This will be your first two screws. Then mark the rail every 18". I pre-drilled all the holes with a counter sink bit, drill the last hole on each end 6" from the end. Their is too much build up to drill them on the boat. Once you have drilled the rail hang it from the boat with string, this will reduce the weight and make it easier to handle. I attached the rail and then cut the string and pulled it out.

Put some Sika on the rail from the center out past the first two holes on either side of the bow. Heat the rail and have a friend on either side bend it slowly around the bow. You will not have to force it. Then screw it to the boat with the first four holes. Then heat and follow it down each side putting enough Sika to cover 3-4 holes but only screw down the first 3, this will give you space to add more Sika as you go. Do not screw the last hole into the boat. You need some wiggle to butt the next rail.

Follow the same steps as above but make sure the new side rail is touching the bow rail tight a little overlap is ok. Put Sika from the bow end 2-3', skip the first hold and screw holes two and three. Once this is done, grab the bow rail and side rail pull them from the boat and snap them together. This will give you a very tight joint. Then screw the ends down, repeat on the other side. Use the same method for the stern piece. I am assuming you will use 4 rails total.

Then work my way back. Have a friend hold tension while I drill and screw a few feet at a time using a bead of caulk at top and bottom of the rail so its really held down. I would not put the Sika top and bottom. Put enough on the center of the rail so the Sika will squeeze out top and bottom.

Is this too much caulk? No such thing as too much Tips for corners? Heat them and don't force it to bend. Would love some help and maybe apicture of a corner someone has done with the lip over the deck.

I don't have any pictures but I can take some this weekend.

Let me know if you have any questions or send me a PM

 

[Toolate]

Great advice- rail is one piece 80' long so aiming to have one joint at center of transom and will def need help to support the thing as we go from front to back. Would like to have someone to hold it while I drive screws and someone to pull some tension on it from the back too.

The little lip on top wont fold up when I bend it? OK. Heat gun it is from the back.

I will probably install it in a week or so so it will be 50 or so out but warmer in the shed. Think it will shrink back at the joint when its cold?

Thank you guys.

 

[F/V First Team]

Most of the time with one piece wrap around trim there is a metal piece that goes over the joint. In your case some black sillycone (because it's so silly!) or the black Sudbury product (302) would work. Be careful with the black. It's tenacious. If it ever spreads just put some packing tape on either side and the hull, slit to the edge, fill with product, shape and remove tape when its done curing. Easy peasy.

302 Caulking HD Marine Black 10 Oz Cartridge

 

[Toolate]

Silicone has very few uses anymore really. Around glass is the only place we use it in houses. Better products have come along for most things and this Sudbury company is on to something.

Thanks again. Got me thinking about making a metal joining plate for the rub rail.