Sisu30 cutlass bearing

[55andoutt]

I have to change the cutlass on my 30 sisu. Has anyone done one?? I need all the tips I can get ,. Thanks in advance. Mike

 

[Toolate]

Here is a shot of mine- havent changed it. Think it has set screws on both sides as well as water inlets so I would start by sanding off the paint covering them or exposing the heads somehow.

Someone with more experience will chime in.

 

[Seaweags]

toolate is rite . on the sisu i had there was four allen head set screws that held the cutlass in place. sand off the paint an you will see them.mine looked like it was a piece of 2" pvc sticking out of keel,but its actually fiberglass.should be able to slide cutlass out ,if not loosen up stuffing box at tranny end of shaft then pull a little to be able to grab edge of cutlass.bring old one with you to machine shop,most likely have to machine a little off new one to fit back in tube. take some emry paper an clean shaft a little before pulling spray a little penatrating oil up inside to help slide

 

[Toolate]

Pic didnt load. Here it is.

 

[captainlarry84]

toolate is rite . on the sisu i had there was four allen head set screws that held the cutlass in place. sand off the paint an you will see them.mine looked like it was a piece of 2" pvc sticking out of keel,but its actually fiberglass.should be able to slide cutlass out ,if not loosen up stuffing box at tranny end of shaft then pull a little to be able to grab edge of cutlass.bring old one with you to machine shop,most likely have to machine a little off new one to fit back in tube. take some emry paper an clean shaft a little before pulling spray a little penatrating oil up inside to help slide

Sea wags is correct if the boat has a wetube. Some had the bronze stern bearing. If yours has the bronze stuffing box:

Your best bet is to remove the shaft. Next remove the 4 nuts holding the bronze housing to the keel. Bring the bronze housing to a propreller shop & have them press it in. If the movement is great also have them inspect the shafting. If the shafting is also worn where it rides on the bearing & stuffing box you may need to replace the shaft also. It is not a hard job. The hardest part is removing the coupler off the shaft. To do so disconnect the coupler from the gear. Next place a socket on the end of the shaft the same size as the shaft. Get longer bolts & reconnect. Keep tighting until the coupler breaks lose. If it is very hard, just add some heat from a propane torch
Dropping the rudder is easy. Make sure that the boat is blocked high enough to swing the rudder out. Disconnect all steering gear topside. Next you must remove the Bronze rudder stuffing box. Once the stuffing box is out the rudder will be flopping in a very large hole. you simply pick up the rudder so the bottom post comes out of the shoe to the side of the skeg and it drops out.

 

[55andoutt]

Rudder off?

Do you think taking the rudder off is the easiest way to get the shaft out? If so , has anyone dropped a rudder on a 30 SISU.

 

[captainlarry84]

Dropping the rudder is easy. Make sure that the boat is blocked high enough to swing the rudder out. Disconnect all steering gear topside. Next you must remove the Bronze rudder stuffing box. Once the stuffing box is out the rudder will be flopping in a very large hole. you simply pick up the rudder so the bottom post comes out of the shoe to the side of the skeg and it drops out.

 

[55andoutt]

This forum is great. Thanks for all the answers.

 

[captainlarry84]

You can do this job. And you will be proud of yourself. Just follow this post. Hey the boats on the hard how much trouble can you get into. Also once the shaft is out bring the coupler along with the shafting to the prop shop & have them face the old coupler to either the old or new shaft. Facing means that they install the coupler onto the shaft. Next they spin the shaft and face or mill the coupler flange so that the coupler is a perfect 90 degrees to the shaft you are using and the transmission. Ailment will be much easier.
Looking at you haul out shot it appears that your vessel has the wet tube so fine the allen sets and pull it out with the shaft removed. You cannot get in trouble. Also that coupler will be hard to break nso follow my tips on using a socket & some heat.

 

[55andoutt]

Will do captlarry . I hope I can be as much help to someone as you have been to me. I've wanted one of these boats for a lot of years . It's everything I could have asked for . Have a happy thanksgiving and I'm sure ill be back with more questions between now and spring

 

[55andoutt]

My haul out photo

This is a better photo of my keel, prop area

 

[Toolate]

Here is rudder post and packing from inside on my boat. Need to make a new rudder since shaft is worn 1/2 the way through at the bottom.

Its at least clean now (pic is old).

 

[Toolate]

Are we taking the bolts out or removing the packing nut? Havent even looked at the thing yet but assume there has to be a packing nut like a shaft.

Here is worn section at the bottom.

 

[55andoutt]

I beleive just removing the packing nut ,lifting the rudder out and off to the side , then drop it

 

[55andoutt]

I'm sorry the instructions I got were to remove the stuffing box. Not just the packing nut

 

[captainlarry84]

I beleive just removing the packing nut ,lifting the rudder out and off to the side , then drop it

No you will need to remove the entire rudder stuffing box. Also your shoe is shot the hole is egged. I would also replace the shoe o0r they may be able to press in a cutlass bearing. Metal to metal on the shoe will always wear. At the prop shop they can re-stock the rudder. Also on the lower shoe they can press in a cutlass bearing so the bottom stock rides on a bearing. I did that on my JC boat & it was billet proof. S&S in College Point NY did the work. As far as the rudder goes.... I am not sure if it can be re-posted. You many need a new metal rudder. If so spend the money & go for a bronze rudder. Bronze rudders get along better with your bronze wheel. In some case S/S rudder can cause electrolysis to the wheel. Also with a bronze wheel they can be drilled so you can always slide out the shaft without rudder removal. In the photo the lower zinc covers the shaft removal hole.

Lastly if you press in the cutlass bear. You need to buy the complete bear which is 6" long shaft cutlass bearing. Save the scrap piece if you need to replace it at a later date. My shoe bearing is ten years old and no issues.

Also if you study the photos you can see pins where they re shafted the old bronze rudder.

 

[Toolate]

Lots going on here- I think 55's boat has no zinc on the shaft- is it just hidden in the picture?

For me, I am planning a new rudder and have heard lots of debate on SS vs bronze. Shoe is shot no question but to press in a piece of a cutlass I would have to first drill a hole in it to fit the cutlass although I am not sure how I would do that with any degree of accuracy- enough to leave a 'press fit" for the cutlass I mean.

Travis had posted a link to a bearing made by Strong marine that I cant find now of course (think it bolted on) but I was thinking at least I would have to make a block of bronze to bolt on the bronze C channel with a hole in it that a machine shop could drill and press in the piece of cutlass. Just because I would rather not have someone have to come and weld bronze in my back yard...

Anyone suggest a local shop to make a bronze rudder?

 

[captainlarry84]

That shoe has been in place most likely since she was built. You are on the hard so I would remove the shoe, rebedding is always a good idea after so many years. Bring the shoe to the machine shop & let them repair it and press in the bearing. I would refasten the shoe with fresh silicone bronze hardware & you are done for years to come. During the refastening I would also ad a jumper wire from the inside and tie the shoe into the bonding system. Fresh hardware & 5200 material = peace of mind for years to come. Not a big job.

 

[Toolate]

I could make a hole with my files/dremel etc that would require a press fit for the shaft the more I think about it. Where is it going to go if the rudder is there. Would prefer a weld though for GP's.. Have to talk to my welder and see where he is on bronze.

Can a cutlass be welded on without burning the liner? Would think not so the press fit is maybe what it has to be.

 

[captainlarry84]

I could make a hole with my files/dremel etc that would require a press fit for the shaft the more I think about it. Where is it going to go if the rudder is there. Would prefer a weld though for GP's.. Have to talk to my welder and see where he is on bronze.

Can a cutlass be welded on without burning the liner? Would think not so the press fit is maybe what it has to be.

No it must be pressed & with any welding do to heat it must be removed. The shoe comes off easier that you think. Just pull it do it pro & you will be proud of the job. Once done you are done for years to come.