Maybe. I templated in cardboard then I modeled them in SOLIDWORKS then punch out of 1/16 aluminum and tacked those up and went back to fit on the boat and they need tweaks. If I had gone with my templates there would of been problems.Cold you make them out of plywood then bring that to a fabricator to copy?
I used 10ga which is .180" thick. 3/16" is .187" nominal BUT is plate and has a scale on it that won't polish very good. 10ga is a sheet size and made in 2B P&O finish which is very smooth and polishes much easier. I considered 1/8 or 11ga but so glad I went 3/16 very low distortion from welding. I think 11ga would if moved all over the place.Those are beautiful ! Do you fab them in 10 Ga. or 3/16 ?
anytime, any questions about anything metal just ask.
Actually you know what I mis-spoke, you want 7ga, which is .180". I think the .135 it too thinwould this work ? From speedy metals
316 Stainless Steel, Cold Rolled & Annealed, 2B Finish
Dimensions: 10ga (
Material: Stainless Steel
Plus or Minus 1/4"
300 series stainless is low carbon unless you get into 400 series and other alloys which have high carbon for things like knifes or parts for wear. So probably 25 years ago all the manufactures started making all T304 & T316 low carbon. There is really no difference that I am aware of. The 316 has higher nickel content and added molybdenum which is why it's better for marine. But it's all low carbon.Tuna Pursuit,
I do have a metal question. 316L vs 316, same with 304. The L means low carbon, so that the metal expands less when heated, and is less likely to crack, I have been told. This is best for exhaust components, etc. For parts that are only heated during manufacture, such as a Samson post, would not the non-L grade be stronger and better?