Go with a self aligning two bolt gland type. Easiest to service. Just need a 9/16 wrench. Buck algonquin makes a very nice one. Dripless is not that great. When they fail, you are pretty much fucked, You need to remove the shaft to replace the seal and the boot. With the traditional style, theres not much to go wrong. Worst thing that can happen is that you need to re-pack it. You can do that in the water without any issues so long as you have a functioning bilge pump.
Dripless from Strong is the only way to go. When it's time for a new seal (I have 13 seasons on mine and it's still perfect) you just yank it out and slip your spare down the shaft and into place. Easy Peasy.
All you will need is a phillips screw driver for the spare seal holder and a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the old one. You can even do it with just a common screw driver if you're so inclined.
Interesting that this thread comes up now. We just pulled the wheel for recon, then decided we need to replace the cutlass bearing. Technical difficulties require that we pull the shaft to do this...so we are now talking about the stuffing box as well. We currently have an older model dripless... which I have never been entirely comfortable with - I always have this picture in my mind of opening the engine box and finding seawater just below deck level... Anyway - I am inclined to go with conventional "old style" stuffing box, but now learning about new type of "dripless" that does not require frequent tightening, and does not threaten to sink the boat if it fails... Thanks for opening this "can of worms." I will continue to lurk with great interest...
It can be a worm can and a lot based upon personal preference. I have used conventional stuffing boxes and the PSS seals both with great success. Many prefer the tides seals, but I liked the PSS style better and never had an issue. If you go tides style stack lots of spares on the shaft ,just because you can..
For the current boat I was going to go PSS but ended up just replacing the stuffing box to tube hose and clamps and staying conventional. Repack that with the modern gortex or GFO packing and it is very close to drip less once run in and adjusted properly. I have not had to tighten but once in two seasons now and it still stops dripping after running and drips very little underway. I spent the money elsewhere.
Anyone care to ID (brand/make) the stuffing box in mine ?
Pulled my prop and pulling shaft to send out.
Have had a bit of a wobble for a while.
Not really sure it's time to replace stuffing box while shaft is out or just repack it.