Thoughts and Opinions on SeaCraft 23 Inboard

[Hooper]

Hi Guys,

Not a Downeaster, but there is so much knowledge on this site, I’m looking for thoughts and opinions, things I may not have considered.

I’m seriously looking at a 23’ SeaCraft straight inboard. It’s a 1977 hull that was rehabbed in 2015’ish. It’s in fantastic condition overall, Hull is mint, no cracking in the gelcoat, etc. A new Crusader 5.7l 330hp was installed.

In looking at the engine in the console, would I be facing a maintenance nightmare specifically considering access? I know Crusaders have an excellent reputation for reliability and longevity but like any engine, they need maintenance. The console does not tilt forward meaning access will be challenging.

For you who work on engines for a living, are there anything in these photos that causes you concerns?

 

[Frank Grimes]

doesn't look like the exhaust manifolds or heads are coming off without removing the console, those are jobs you would normally do in the boat without major surgery.

 

[Old Mud]

Gordon, I like that boat and the engine even better. Bu,t reach down there to change the plugs, Altinator, Starter, Raw water pump even the manifolds. I have had to undo the shaft, Exhaust tubes Engine mounts etc just to change Manifolds on one similar to that. That's a lot of realigning just for simple maintaince. Not to put it down just saying what will happen. Either way if it were mine i would first hinge the forward console. Then work out the rest from there. It would be a lot of rewiring for sure but without at least that boy i don't know if i could live with that. Sorry to sound like a bummer. JMHO.

 

[Hooper]

Gordon, I like that boat and the engine even better. Bu,t reach down there to change the plugs, Altinator, Starter, Raw water pump even the manifolds. I have had to undo the shaft, Exhaust tubes Engine mounts etc just to change Manifolds on one similar to that. That's a lot of realigning just for simple maintaince. Not to put it down just saying what will happen. Either way if it were mine i would first hinge the forward console. Then work out the rest from there. It would be a lot of rewiring for sure but without at least that boy i don't know if i could live with that. Sorry to sound like a bummer. JMHO.

No please don’t apologize! That’s exactly the type of critical perspective I was looking for, you guys have forgotten more than I will ever know and see things I won’t see. I knew it looked tight in there, and figured that would be an issue with maintenance and even more so with bigger projects.

 

[Hooper]

doesn't look like the exhaust manifolds or heads are coming off without removing the console, those are jobs you would normally do in the boat without major surgery.

Thank you Frank, I wondered about that. Something I wouldn’t be doing myself but would have to pay for and that would make it a lot more costly.

 

[CCtuna]

I have that same engine and just recently discovered the plugs are below the exhaust manifold. I don’t see how you could possibly change them in that situation

 

[Hooper]

I have that same engine and just recently discovered the plugs are below the exhaust manifold. I don’t see how you could possibly change them in that situation

Thanks, that’s exactly what I was looking for. I’m not sure this is going to work for me.

 

[CCtuna]

Thanks, that’s exactly what I was looking for. I’m not sure this is going to work for me.

I recognize those pics and know the listing. That is a badass boat. Maybe there’s a way to gain better access

 

[Downrigga]

The 23 seacraft is one hell of a boat.

 

[cb34]

Newburyport boat ?

 

[Old Mud]

I have that same engine and just recently discovered the plugs are below the exhaust manifold. I don’t see how you could possibly change them in that situation

True and they are down angle 5 degrees. So all that said i know a way all those bummer things could be rectified.

First you hinge the console. (Wiring would be the big thing there). Next you cut out the deck on both sides about 6 ft long and to within 4 inches (depending of the washrail sides) of the hull sides. Do appropriate framing and make two hatches to hing open to outboard. That may sound like a lot but it is really not that much. Some things may apply as to if you can make drainwells for hatches etc. Anyway then you could have your boat and it would be completely serviceable. Win ,Win. I'll dig out a couple of pics to show what im talking about.

 

[fat2nawilly]

I had one for ten years, great boat. I put a doghouse on mine and made it hinge forward to access engine. I had a marine power EFI 350 in it with easy access to everything but my manifolds and risers looked a lot smaller than the crusader's. With some basic modification you could probably access everything you need to pretty easy.

 

[Old Mud]

I found them.

#1 Looking aft with everything open. Hatch opens forward, both side hatches open outboard. You can see the framing of the Port hatch. (Yeah its a sterndrive. )

#2 looking forward Stbd. hatch in pic.

#3 looking aft with both hatches closed. You can see the coaming on the inside edge. The engine box comes down over those . 5" round hatch is to service my strainer)

#4 Looking aft to Port. You can see the outline of the hatch and on the outboard side is where the stainless continuous hinge is. After you pick up the engine hatch those outboard hatches swing up and the coamings are just below my washboards.

All together it makes easy access to everything.


.

 

[Hooper]

Newburyport boat ?

No, it’s on Cape Cod.

 

[Hooper]

I found them.

#1 Looking aft with everything open. Hatch opens forward, both side hatches open outboard. You can see the framing of the Port hatch. (Yeah its a sterndrive. )

#2 looking forward Stbd. hatch in pic.

#3 looking aft with both hatches closed. You can see the coaming on the inside edge. The engine box comes down over those . 5" round hatch is to service my strainer)

#4 Looking aft to Port. You can see the outline of the hatch and on the outboard side is where the stainless continuous hinge is. After you pick up the engine hatch those outboard hatches swing up and the coamings are just below my washboards.

All together it makes easy access to everything.
View attachment 103293 View attachment 103294 View attachment 103295 View attachment 103296

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I getcha, that makes a lot of sense how you did that. Provides easy access to everything in a snap. I’m going to look at it this weekend and I’ll will keep these things in mind, ability to hinge the console and accessibility outboard of it. Thank you guys for giving me your thoughts on this one!

 

[Hooper]

Typically, how often are maintenance issues such as new manifolds and risers addressed? Is that an every other year job? Every 3 years? Five?

 

[CCtuna]

Typically, how often are maintenance issues such as new manifolds and risers addressed? Is that an every other year job? Every 3 years? Five?

This is my first time owning an inboard gasser but I’ve read that risers need to be replaced as often as every year if it’s saltwater use and infrequent flushing (me). I’ve got a lot to learn about my engine this spring.

 

[Frank Grimes]

This is my first time owning an inboard gasser but I’ve read that risers need to be replaced as often as every year if it’s saltwater use and infrequent flushing (me). I’ve got a lot to learn about my engine this spring.

I didn't even notice that the engine isn't FWC....yeah that changes some of the servicing calculus for sure.

 

[Old Mud]

After having a couple of raw water cooled engines i found the manifolds would last about 3 years and a couple 4 years. Risers on the other hand would only last 2 years unless you took off and cleaned with wires and acid. Then i could get 3 to 4 years. Lots of small passages around where the water exits the riser that gets clogged with rust scale. Also you have to completely drain the block and pumps in the fall. After 2 or 3 years you will notice you will have to also clean out those drains.
A FWC system would be the way to go if you want longevity. Then you only have to worry about the risers. A lot cheaper than rizers and manifolds. After market systems are available.

Plugs, i change mine annually. I sandblast and keep the used ones and will use then every other seasons. Starter, change every season with my spare then take the take off in to be checked and put back under the birth for spare. Raw water pume ,every 2 years check impeller. Belts, ignition etc. check often. That's just what i do because there are no curbs to pull up to when she won't run. You fix it and get back.

 

[Hooper]

That is great information guys. I really appreciate it. I think I’m beginning to understand why my mechanic has told me, just stick with outboards Since he doesn’t touch IB’s I think I’d be hunting for a new mechanic too. Not so sure that’s very appealing to me. Having a great relationship with a great mechanic is extremely valuable and I’d hate to lose my guy.