Toolate's 30 Sisu repower/remodel

Toolate

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Toolate

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Toolate

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WC1966

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"Mainly the water drips running down the hull from where I stopped grinding. See them just about a foot and a half up from the back of the keel? I assume that this is just some water trapped in the hull and it will stop after a bit. Bilge is dry and has been for a month plus bottom paint has been off for 2 months. Should I worry or just wait for it to dry?"

Is the water in between the gel-coat and the glass?? When did the water start appearing? At the point you stopped grinding, or at the same level as the shaft and continued as you removed material?
 

captainlarry84

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Cant find the other thread so starting over.

Did a few hours of grinding today to get over the hump and finally be ready to paint the bilge and start re-assembly process. So far I have removed: the settee and galley cabinets, engine, gear, all tanks and anything with a hose attached to it, shaft & prop, rudder, keel shoe, all seacocks, rudder bearing and had the bottom blasted. She is pretty bare except for the original electrical and steering system that seem to be in good working order (hoping not to have to do this now, knock on wood).

I have been working with Chris from Precision Marine (see the ads around here lately?) on a HUGE list of parts to get me going from GPS to shaft seals to electrical to fiberglass to paint products. He is a wealth of information and I have found that his prices can not be beat. Plus they are close and in another state so the sales tax is also saved...

Anyway, thought I would post a picture of my tube/cutlass because there are a couple things I have never seen or read about on here. Mainly the water drips running down the hull from where I stopped grinding. See them just about a foot and a half up from the back of the keel? I assume that this is just some water trapped in the hull and it will stop after a bit. Bilge is dry and has been for a month plus bottom paint has been off for 2 months. Should I worry or just wait for it to dry?

Also one of the set screws for the cutlass is broken off in the bronze bar that the cutlass set screws are in. I am planning to take the other 3 out, apply some penetrating oil, heat and then try an easy-out which I expect will do nothing so will plan on then drilling and re-tapping a size up if need be. Cutlass will be new so I am not worried about damaging the old one. Any tips would be great. going to put the heat gun on it so I dont burn the FG.
Don't even both just over size drill the broken set screw out. Fill that hole & drill and tap a new one next to it. I see they used bolds. I like to see allen sets. They are easier to glass over and easier to remove. The water drips bother me a little. I would have the hull checked with a moisture meter to see if there is a problem. If you can not get a meter maybe drill a few very small hole into the outer skin to see if water comes out. The holes will be easy to fill with Hull & Deck putty, just bevel the edges
 

Pamlico

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The bolts in the cutless must be a Sisu thing, mine has them too. I installed a cutlass today and used the bolts again. When it took it out they were not glassed over and I'm wondering if I need to do that. I did use a little thread lock on the bolts when I reinstalled them.

Any chance those drips are condensation from being in the tent?
 

Toolate

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Toolate

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Toolate

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Toolate

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Last edited:

captainlarry84

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I would just go with all allen heads. & glass them over. The jumper wire from one of the bolts I have never seen before. I also do not think you need it. Once the allens are all buried in glass and the cutlass bearing is fit snug into the shaft you are done. I have never in all my years seen a cutlass bearing housed in a wetube to get attacked by electrolysis. The most important thing is make sure that you have an excellent source of water to feed the bearing. With good water pressure the bearing will last for many seasons. The bigger the reduction gear the slow it turns the longer it lasts. Fine a good source of water off the motor, make sure the source port is not so low in the cooling system that a small piece of old zinc pencil can clog it. On my wetube I also drilled two water feed holes angled back. The water feed holes are just in front of the cutlass bearing. This feed holes are there in the event the main water feed gets clog. With these two water feed holes the bearing can never run dry. This photo shows the water feed hole and you can see both of the allen that are covered. When I glass the allens I put a small dab of silicone into the allen head, next I glass. On removal the silicone is a lot easier to dig out that F/G & you do not damage the allen heads.

As far as the moisture goes. Don't over think this she is a very old boat and if you think all 30 Plus rigs are 100 % then put you teeth under your pillow...... The keel on your Susi down that low in solid I am sure you have done some grinding in the lowest part of the hull where the coring most likely stops. That would be the most likely spot than a small amount of water could be trapped. If so maybe the small hole trick and see what comes out. Also remember salt water will not rot core on fresh water will. The odds of that being fresh water is zero. So do not loss sleep over this.
I have seen it before. My buddy damage his keel on a 35 Duffy & some water drip out. The water stopped they grinding out the damage and the keel was fine & that was 6 years ago.

kristen 009.jpg
 

55andoutt

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Water

Hey ,as you know I have the same boat , I see what I think is a Keel drain plug on your photo. I pulled mine and got a little water from it. I know your water is higher ,but it couldn't hurt to pull the plug. I also just replaced my cutlass .it was real tough to get out. Captlarry was a big help. What I ended up doing was banging it out from inside with a 30"piece of rigid 1 -3/4" OD pipe . I'm now putting every thing back together and realized the short cutlass the rudder sits in was shot. I was able to pop It out and ordered a new one. Take a look at yours. I can send you a piece if u need it.
 

Toolate

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Toolate

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captainlarry84

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See... not to worry you boat is very sound I ma sure. Leave the holes opened also until you are ready to paint. On fill the holes make sure you bevel the edges all the way around, then push the Hull & Deck putty in with a stiff putty knife...all fixed. Sleep tight.
 

Toolate

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Toolate

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Toolate

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Toolate

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