Volvo Penta TAMD41 Engine - General Questions

Wharf Rat

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I am looking at a boat that has a 1990 200HP Turbo TAMD41 engine. It was well maintained, according to the service records, but I don't know a whole lot about this engine.

I was wondering if anyone here has either owned or has some second hand knowledge on the general performance and reliability of these engines, and if there are certain components that have a tendency to fail. Volvo Penta makes some nice engines, although they do come in all shapes and sizes, and some smoke like chimneys, some are workhorses, and no matter what, the parts are extremely pricey.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I like the boat but I am just a little skeptical on the engine itself, it's the one unknown. Thanks in advance, fellas.
 

steveinak

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I am looking at a boat that has a 1990 200HP Turbo TAMD41 engine. It was well maintained, according to the service records, but I don't know a whole lot about this engine.

I was wondering if anyone here has either owned or has some second hand knowledge on the general performance and reliability of these engines, and if there are certain components that have a tendency to fail. Volvo Penta makes some nice engines, although they do come in all shapes and sizes, and some smoke like chimneys, some are workhorses, and no matter what, the parts are extremely pricey.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I like the boat but I am just a little skeptical on the engine itself, it's the one unknown. Thanks in advance, fellas.

Now i can tell you some stuff!! We need to get on the phone. I've had 2 of the 41's in my bowpicker. Sold the boat last year with 5200hrs on the engine. I will never own another volvo.
DEC engine.jpg

DEC engine.jpg
 

plowin

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Having had 41 series volvos in the past I will also say that they are not the greatest engines and given the choice would not own another one.Although they did not use much fuel they were full of overheat problems as well as constantly leaking coolant pipes and o-rings. My 63 series Volvo on the other hand is a bullet proof workhorse with virtually no problems after 5000 hours. I would certainly own another one of these!!
 

lobstercatcher

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Great engine. I put 27,000 hrs on before the clock broke on a tamd40b. I used it 3 more years with no clock before I replaced it with the updated tamd41 model. I put 7000 + hrs on that engine before I hauled the boat out for storage when the new boat arrived. Everything seemed the same between the 2 engines. Only filter changes were required on the tamd41p as was with the tamd40.

I know of no other engine in my harbor that has performed like the volvo tamd40 and I feel the tamd41 would perform the same since it is the same engine with some upgrades.
 

butterball

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I have had a 41A for 10 years now. The cooling system is marginal and if not maintained it will give you fits. Check for a temp. spike while running at wot . I had the heat exchager boiled out, oil cooler cleaned, rebuilt raw water pump, and new hoses. It has run flawless since then. They are smokey when cold and they don't like after market parts. Use Volvo belts.
My concern would be what it has for a transmission. If it is the Volvlo MS 3 or 4 run from it. The bolt in replacement is not available any longer. It has a funky downshaft angle that will require raising the engine bed. The big selling point of these engines has been a flush deck due to there overal height. Looking at the picture you posted it looks like a flush deck.
Check 28 Cape Dory forum for information on the transmission an Boatdiesel .com is a wealth of information. Good luck.
 

Wharf Rat

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Thanks for all the info, fellas. The engine only has 1,000 hours on it, and has just recently had all the belts, seals, o rings, replaced, and cooling system Rydlimed. The boat is a steal, the hull is solid glass, and the only reason I can get her so cheap is the engine being a Volvo 41A from 1988. I am in the business, as my company handles diesel service as well as electronics, and in fact that is how the company started, rebuilding Detroit Diesels. Unfortunately we are not Volvo Penta dealers, just Cummins, Yanmar, Scania, Lugger, Fischer Panda, etc. We do have a hookup where we get 20 percent off list, but those parts are still very expensive. I will have to find out the model gearbox is has, as that would be a nightmare. I will also check out BoatDiesel, as we have a full membership there and that site has tons of good info. Thanks again for the posts.
 

steveinak

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Didn't get to tell ya the other day but a big problem here with those outdrives is that the exhausts have been burning holes in the intermediate housings due to the new diesel fuels, another EXpensive repair just waiting to happen. Those old drives had bronze shifting cones in them and they seemed to glaze up after a 1000 hours so the drive quits going into gear, cure was to pull the top box apart and deglaze the cone, another expensive repair. Raw water pumps wear quickly and the new replacement pumps have a non replaceable cam so when that wears guess what? you get to spend another $400 on another raw water pump. The list goes on.
 

lobstercatcher

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Didn't get to tell ya the other day but a big problem here with those outdrives is that the exhausts have been burning holes in the intermediate housings due to the new diesel fuels, another EXpensive repair just waiting to happen. Those old drives had bronze shifting cones in them and they seemed to glaze up after a 1000 hours so the drive quits going into gear, cure was to pull the top box apart and deglaze the cone, another expensive repair. Raw water pumps wear quickly and the new replacement pumps have a non replaceable cam so when that wears guess what? you get to spend another $400 on another raw water pump. The list goes on.

" Raw water pumps wear quickly "
Must depend on which ocean you are in. I only replace the pump once. It was around 18,000 hrs.

I have a Borg warner gear so I can't give a opinion on the Volvo gears or outdrives.
 

phil

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diesel engine hours

Gentlemen; reading this post/string I am astonished at the engine hour numbers mentioned by some. I lurk on other forum sites and in general, most others bemoan the poor performance of their engines...a couple of thousand hours between rebuilds or even repowers. Is there some secret? Is it scrupulous maintenance, constant use or what? Would like to know,

Thanks-Phil
 

lobstercatcher

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Gentlemen; reading this post/string I am astonished at the engine hour numbers mentioned by some. I lurk on other forum sites and in general, most others bemoan the poor performance of their engines...a couple of thousand hours between rebuilds or even repowers. Is there some secret? Is it scrupulous maintenance, constant use or what? Would like to know,

Thanks-Phil

If you are refering to me. I had a 35 Duffy built in 1983. I used it to earn a living until 2009 when I had a new boat built again. All I did was listen to a old school machanic and old school boat builders. It would be imposable to earn a living with a engine that needs to be rebuilt every couple thousand hours.. I'm coming up on 4000 hrs on the new boat. I'd say the Volvo D6 330 isn't even brokin in yet. People think it should have been rebuilt twice already?????????
 

steveinak

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Gentlemen; reading this post/string I am astonished at the engine hour numbers mentioned by some. I lurk on other forum sites and in general, most others bemoan the poor performance of their engines...a couple of thousand hours between rebuilds or even repowers. Is there some secret? Is it scrupulous maintenance, constant use or what? Would like to know,

Thanks-Phil

Long engine life is directly connected to that red knob on the dashboard:D and how far and hard you push it!!:rolleyes: I've never run any of my engines at the rpm's that the factory says to, in my opinion all that does is run them back to the rebuild shop faster.
 

BillD

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Gentlemen; reading this post/string I am astonished at the engine hour numbers mentioned by some. I lurk on other forum sites and in general, most others bemoan the poor performance of their engines...a couple of thousand hours between rebuilds or even repowers. Is there some secret? Is it scrupulous maintenance, constant use or what? Would like to know,

Thanks-Phil

If you are refering to me. I had a 35 Duffy built in 1983. I used it to earn a living until 2009 when I had a new boat built again. All I did was listen to a old school machanic and old school boat builders. It would be imposable to earn a living with a engine that needs to be rebuilt every couple thousand hours.. I'm coming up on 4000 hrs on the new boat. I'd say the Volvo D6 330 isn't even brokin in yet. People think it should have been rebuilt twice already?????????

Long engine life is directly connected to that red knob on the dashboard:D and how far and hard you push it!!:rolleyes: I've never run any of my engines at the rpm's that the factory says to, in my opinion all that does is run them back to the rebuild shop faster.

Phil,

I'll add my observations on longevity of marine diesel engines.

Take two identical marine diesel engines. Pick any two, doesn't matter.
Install both engines in identical boats. Setup of both engines (propping/engine loading/etc.)

Run boat #1 as in inshore/bay lobster boat.
Run boat #2 as a canyon sporfishing boat.

Boat engine #1 ran 500 hrs. for the season, burned 2,000 gallons of fuel.
Boat engine #2 ran 500 hrs. for the season, burned 10,000 gallons of fuel.

Ask yourself this.
Which motor do you think has the most likelihood of reaching 5,000 hrs. without a rebuild or some type of failure?

All things being equal.....in the end... engine longevity is really the total number of gallons of fueled burned and the heat the gallons produced.

Now toss in the variables of the "owner turning the red knob,"the engine out of sight/out of mind owner", "the clueless owner" and these are the owners who complain about low hour "overheats", "engine failures" and "repowers".

FWIW,

Bill D
 
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Wayne Dober

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I have had a 41A for 10 years now. The cooling system is marginal and if not maintained it will give you fits. Check for a temp. spike while running at wot . I had the heat exchager boiled out, oil cooler cleaned, rebuilt raw water pump, and new hoses. It has run flawless since then. They are smokey when cold and they don't like after market parts. Use Volvo belts.
My concern would be what it has for a transmission. If it is the Volvlo MS 3 or 4 run from it. The bolt in replacement is not available any longer. It has a funky downshaft angle that will require raising the engine bed. The big selling point of these engines has been a flush deck due to there overal height. Looking at the picture you posted it looks like a flush deck.
Check 28 Cape Dory forum for information on the transmission an Boatdiesel .com is a wealth of information. Good luck.
I'm looking at a Cape Dory 30 with two of these engines and the MS4 trans. Would you be able to tell me the costs for having the cooling issues repaired? Cost to deglaze the shifting cone in the transmission? Thanks Wayne
 

PBianculli

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one 41 volvo is bad enough two are just double trouble especially with shifting cone gears.
Steve, did you have the 41p? I just put a 41a in my boat to replace a 42a with a lot of problems, and I love the 41a so far.
 

steveinak

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Steve, did you have the 41p? I just put a 41a in my boat to replace a 42a with a lot of problems, and I love the 41a so far.
had a 41A originally that never ran right, messed with that engine for 5 seasons finally gave up and repowered with a 41P it was better than the A but still a gutless pos. I'll say i did put 5200 hours on the P model but i ALWAYS babied it and adding a pyro to it showed me how hot the exhaust would get with not much load on the motor. 007.jpg
 
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Tunacious

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The TAMD 41A was the first model of the 41 line and its main flaw was low compression. This is the source of White cold start smoke. The white smoke goes away when the engine is warmed up. The after cooler design has a drain cock to dispel moisture. This little gem can cause the inter cooler to rock around and the hole where the drain comes out gets egged out and you lose boost. Only fix is a new housing. The lifters have a oiling rod that is sealed with an "O Ring". If the O ring wears out, too much oil is at top of head and oil leaks from valve cover. Many parts are sealed with O rings and need to be replaced to stop all the various leaks. The injector pump is easy to remove and time. The temperature guage will read high if the dash lights are on. The lift pump wears out frequently. Valves are easy to adjust. Use Green coolant. The MS style cone clutch is a POS. If it does not clunk into gear, then the cone clutch needs to be lapped or replaced. As a west coast boat owner, the engine sound is nice and sweet for those that like to troll for Tuna and Marlin. Those in the know, would run one engine slightly slower than the other to create a whine. For some reason marlin loved the sound and swam up to the exhaust pipe. The second version, known as the B, was a much improved model with different pistons, higher compression and 4 hole injectors and maybe a different turbo. Later model D, and P were further refined. I doubt if any A models really saw 200 hp. They like to run at 3,000 to 3,200 rpm, WOT needs to see 3,900 rpm.
 

crabz

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They really don't like to be over propped.
41A's smoke when cold, as mentioned.
If it has small hard tubing for valve cover breather get rid of that and put on bigger hose, like in Steve's pics. The hose coming out of the back valve cover.
I always thought they were easy on fuel.
If I ran mine too easy for a long period of time the turbos would carbon up , run it hard for at least 10 minutes a day helped that.
Not the best engine but back in the day much better than gas or a BMW diesel or a 6.2GM .
 

bigjay

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I'm looking at a Cape Dory 30 with two of these engines and the MS4 trans. Would you be able to tell me the costs for having the cooling issues repaired? Cost to deglaze the shifting cone in the transmission? Thanks Wayne
I have a CD 28 and we are just finishing a repower. engine had lots of good care and PM's including cool system, ran well. transmission was the weak link and we bought the CD realizing this and planning to replace the engine/transmission.

I'd rebuild/replace raw water pump, remove and boil out HE and intercooler, replace hard pipe seals and exhaust elbows to keep things cool. minimum 1000.00 per side

MS4 is mechanical and fragile, no parts anymore. maybe the CD 30 has room for a new gear, I'd check-confirm
 
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