Weekend with Sisu

Pamlico

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Pulled the stuffing box off to replace it. While I had things apart I noticed the cutlass was worn pretty bad. Ahhh what the heck, I'll rip it all out. Got every thing apart Saturday.

It all came apart nicely no hiccups, don't have a wheel puller so the shaft and wheel came off together. Spent today cleaning things up and checking the shaft runout. The shaft is within .004 on the ends but .008 in the middle. I read somewhere .006 was the acceptable amount. The plan is to put her back in just the way she sits, close enough for me. ;)

Need to order a new coupling and cutlass then find someone to fit and face it, so I can start putting things back together next weekend.

image.jpg
 
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Keelboater

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Looks like fun. Glad it came apart so easily for you. Makes life much easier when a plan actually remains on track! BTW - you're off by a few decimal places. .004" is 4 thousandths. 00.4 is 40 thousandths and your shaft would have to be replaced. I know, what's a little dot amongst friends. ;)
 

Pamlico

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Here a dot there a dot, :rolleyes: screwed that one. :oops:
Thanks, fixed it. :grin:
 
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Toolate

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I assume you cleaned all of that up prior to that shot? Paint is even clean on everything. What size boat?

Where did you get the babbit bearing? I am assuming its new and you replaced it installed it recently.
 

Toolate

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And the knurled nut on top? Mine has a grease fitting which I think makes sense.

Thanks for the pic by the way
 

captainlarry84

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Nicely done you are on the right track. I strongly recommend that you also remove the wheel from the shaft before re-install. The tapper on the shaft should be carefully inspected for and signs of wear or cracking in the key-way area. Plus the wheel should be checked off the shaft to make sure balance & pitch specs are spot on. The wheel is where the rubber meets the road...it must be perfect. I also noticed that the key-way on your coupler is very square. It is always good to slight round the edge of the key-way to prevent the key-way from digging in and starting a stress crack. That is another reason why the wheel should be removed. That key-way is very critical in shaft life. It should be free of sharp edges & fit very snug in the shaft and only snug in the wheel.
 
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Pamlico

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Toolate, the knurled nut is really a grease cup. I pack the cup with grease and once in a while give it a 1/4 turn and it pushes a little grease to the bearing.

Captain Larry, I plan to remove the wheel, just got to find a puller. I put some heat on it and tried to pop it off with a hammer and block of wood but it wouldn't budge, so I stopped before I bent something. If everything checks out I'll use some lapping compound and fit it back on the shaft.
I need a new coupler, the fit on the shaft don't suit me since being removed. I can push it back on with my hand and I have always heard that I should not be able to do that. That worries me, so I plan on getting a new one and have it fit.

Question, when I reassemble the rudder stuffing box to the hull, would you use 4200 or 5200?
 

pugsley

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if you need a coupler, i would go to barbours in beaufort, and they have a guy that does all their machine work, he did my shaft and coupling two years ago.
 

captainlarry84

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Toolate, the knurled nut is really a grease cup. I pack the cup with grease and once in a while give it a 1/4 turn and it pushes a little grease to the bearing.

Captain Larry, I plan to remove the wheel, just got to find a puller. I put some heat on it and tried to pop it off with a hammer and block of wood but it wouldn't budge, so I stopped before I bent something. If everything checks out I'll use some lapping compound and fit it back on the shaft.
I need a new coupler, the fit on the shaft don't suit me since being removed. I can push it back on with my hand and I have always heard that I should not be able to do that. That worries me, so I plan on getting a new one and have it fit.

Question, when I reassemble the rudder stuffing box to the hull, would you use 4200 or 5200?
Your coupler only has two allen bolts to hold things together. Not sure on the specs for 1 1/8 shafting. But I would like to see a coupler with a split collar and pinch bolts. I do not think your current coupler is worn because you can slide it, I just do not trust those two allen bolts. If you change go the a split collar. If you keep your current coupler make sure those allens go deep & once nice & tight wrap a good S/S water hose clamp over the tops so they cannot back out. Also when tightening take one turn on each until tight do not tighten one side all at once.
Sorry always 5200 on important assemblies like rudder posts.
 
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